V1 5 lug swap [complete]
03-18-2015, 10:58 AM
#61
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I like a wider tire from a cosmetic standpoint but I also like the stock wheels. Was thinking about rolling the fenders, using a 1/4" spacer on longer studs, the CS arms and 9.75 inch widen stock wheels running a 305 tire. This should work but before pulling the trigger, I'll research it again....you get conflicting stories....
03-18-2015, 12:04 PM
#63
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I just bought michelin super sports for the V and I was close to getting the 265's on the stockers but I just couldnt do it. I decided on 245's square.
Can you explain how it's unsafe?
03-19-2015, 03:02 AM
#67
Of course i will explain.
The idea is sound, in a pinch yes redrillin works for you are not puttin constant pressure on the brakes.
If you were to race them hard you will find the holes will expand and lead to a failure, the metal isnt uniform around the holes any more. Therefor the heat will hit some areas harder than others. Heat is an enemy, where it leads to metal fatigue. You saw what happened to the Racing Brake rotors. The hat separated from the rotor. For the heat of either the HAT or the rotor was in excess of the other and one expanded more than the other and BANG, separation.
If the holes were uniformly drilled where you have the same amount of material around each hole than you shouldnt have an issue, but in this case its not the case.
You are takin the one thing that could possibly save your life and put it in jeopardy, Why would you do that, the brakes should always out perform your engine...
One of the first mods i do is brakes, suspension, tires and wheels...Then i push into the motor, tranny, and rear end...
The idea is sound, in a pinch yes redrillin works for you are not puttin constant pressure on the brakes.
If you were to race them hard you will find the holes will expand and lead to a failure, the metal isnt uniform around the holes any more. Therefor the heat will hit some areas harder than others. Heat is an enemy, where it leads to metal fatigue. You saw what happened to the Racing Brake rotors. The hat separated from the rotor. For the heat of either the HAT or the rotor was in excess of the other and one expanded more than the other and BANG, separation.
If the holes were uniformly drilled where you have the same amount of material around each hole than you shouldnt have an issue, but in this case its not the case.
You are takin the one thing that could possibly save your life and put it in jeopardy, Why would you do that, the brakes should always out perform your engine...
One of the first mods i do is brakes, suspension, tires and wheels...Then i push into the motor, tranny, and rear end...
03-19-2015, 07:23 AM
#69
Of course i will explain.
The idea is sound, in a pinch yes redrillin works for you are not puttin constant pressure on the brakes.
If you were to race them hard you will find the holes will expand and lead to a failure, the metal isnt uniform around the holes any more. Therefor the heat will hit some areas harder than others. Heat is an enemy, where it leads to metal fatigue. You saw what happened to the Racing Brake rotors. The hat separated from the rotor. For the heat of either the HAT or the rotor was in excess of the other and one expanded more than the other and BANG, separation.
If the holes were uniformly drilled where you have the same amount of material around each hole than you shouldnt have an issue, but in this case its not the case.
You are takin the one thing that could possibly save your life and put it in jeopardy, Why would you do that, the brakes should always out perform your engine...
One of the first mods i do is brakes, suspension, tires and wheels...Then i push into the motor, tranny, and rear end...
The idea is sound, in a pinch yes redrillin works for you are not puttin constant pressure on the brakes.
If you were to race them hard you will find the holes will expand and lead to a failure, the metal isnt uniform around the holes any more. Therefor the heat will hit some areas harder than others. Heat is an enemy, where it leads to metal fatigue. You saw what happened to the Racing Brake rotors. The hat separated from the rotor. For the heat of either the HAT or the rotor was in excess of the other and one expanded more than the other and BANG, separation.
If the holes were uniformly drilled where you have the same amount of material around each hole than you shouldnt have an issue, but in this case its not the case.
You are takin the one thing that could possibly save your life and put it in jeopardy, Why would you do that, the brakes should always out perform your engine...
One of the first mods i do is brakes, suspension, tires and wheels...Then i push into the motor, tranny, and rear end...
Last edited by ls1247; 03-19-2015 at 07:37 AM.
03-19-2015, 07:26 AM
#71
On The Tree
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lewisville, TX
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Of course i will explain.
The idea is sound, in a pinch yes redrillin works for you are not puttin constant pressure on the brakes.
If the holes were uniformly drilled where you have the same amount of material around each hole than you shouldnt have an issue, but in this case its not the case.
The idea is sound, in a pinch yes redrillin works for you are not puttin constant pressure on the brakes.
If the holes were uniformly drilled where you have the same amount of material around each hole than you shouldnt have an issue, but in this case its not the case.
03-19-2015, 07:42 AM
#73
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
i can't say i tried super hard to find a junkyard score as i'm kind of in a losing situation with time right now. the longer i run on my winter tires into warmer weather the more they'll be worn for next year.
03-19-2015, 07:47 AM
#74
Of course i will explain.
The idea is sound, in a pinch yes redrillin works for you are not puttin constant pressure on the brakes.
If you were to race them hard you will find the holes will expand and lead to a failure, the metal isnt uniform around the holes any more. Therefor the heat will hit some areas harder than others. Heat is an enemy, where it leads to metal fatigue. You saw what happened to the Racing Brake rotors. The hat separated from the rotor. For the heat of either the HAT or the rotor was in excess of the other and one expanded more than the other and BANG, separation.
If the holes were uniformly drilled where you have the same amount of material around each hole than you shouldnt have an issue, but in this case its not the case.
You are takin the one thing that could possibly save your life and put it in jeopardy, Why would you do that, the brakes should always out perform your engine...
One of the first mods i do is brakes, suspension, tires and wheels...Then i push into the motor, tranny, and rear end...
The idea is sound, in a pinch yes redrillin works for you are not puttin constant pressure on the brakes.
If you were to race them hard you will find the holes will expand and lead to a failure, the metal isnt uniform around the holes any more. Therefor the heat will hit some areas harder than others. Heat is an enemy, where it leads to metal fatigue. You saw what happened to the Racing Brake rotors. The hat separated from the rotor. For the heat of either the HAT or the rotor was in excess of the other and one expanded more than the other and BANG, separation.
If the holes were uniformly drilled where you have the same amount of material around each hole than you shouldnt have an issue, but in this case its not the case.
You are takin the one thing that could possibly save your life and put it in jeopardy, Why would you do that, the brakes should always out perform your engine...
One of the first mods i do is brakes, suspension, tires and wheels...Then i push into the motor, tranny, and rear end...
With that said, drilling rotors so they work on the 6 lug is not that big of a deal. The holes on the rotor hat do not take the stress of braking. That is absorbed through the rotor being sandwiched to the hub via the wheel. Once the wheel is torqued on do you think the rotor has the ability to move back and forth to egg out the holes like you claim?
If that were the case, every car would see the threads on their stud mashed, where the rotor contacts the threads.
I like that AAIIC chimed in because he has drilled the rotors, and raced them. HARD. No failure. Thus why I'm sure he questioned you on this.
He is not talking about the rotor surface, but the holes for the wheel studs/lugs.
03-22-2015, 02:22 AM
#76
The rotor hat breaking like the racing brake stuff is where the rotor meets the hat. A place where there is a lot of heat. Where the rotor mounts to the bearing does not see nearly that much heat. Have you seen a rotor hat glow?
With that said, drilling rotors so they work on the 6 lug is not that big of a deal. The holes on the rotor hat do not take the stress of braking. That is absorbed through the rotor being sandwiched to the hub via the wheel. Once the wheel is torqued on do you think the rotor has the ability to move back and forth to egg out the holes like you claim?
If that were the case, every car would see the threads on their stud mashed, where the rotor contacts the threads.
I like that AAIIC chimed in because he has drilled the rotors, and raced them. HARD. No failure. Thus why I'm sure he questioned you on this.
He is not talking about the rotor surface, but the holes for the wheel studs/lugs.
With that said, drilling rotors so they work on the 6 lug is not that big of a deal. The holes on the rotor hat do not take the stress of braking. That is absorbed through the rotor being sandwiched to the hub via the wheel. Once the wheel is torqued on do you think the rotor has the ability to move back and forth to egg out the holes like you claim?
If that were the case, every car would see the threads on their stud mashed, where the rotor contacts the threads.
I like that AAIIC chimed in because he has drilled the rotors, and raced them. HARD. No failure. Thus why I'm sure he questioned you on this.
He is not talking about the rotor surface, but the holes for the wheel studs/lugs.
I dont take more chances than i have to. Yes there are rotor hats with multiple holes for different wheel hubs. The pressure of the wheel bolted on the hub helps minimize movement of the hat, but we all know Murphys Law.
Dont take the exception and make it the rule, the hats do get hot, they may not glow for you are changin the medium for the heat to transfer through. If you google rotor failure, you will see most of them fail at the point where the rotor meets the hat, but if you look closely none of them are redrilled to fit other hubs.
There is no right nor wrong answer to this question, but there is concern for safety and price. You wanna save on a set of rotors now then later, once they wear out, change for the correct ones then go ahead. Its your life, and who am i to tell you how to live it.
I have learnt that the most expensive nor the cheapest are the best. And if everyone is running it doesnt make it the best either, just makes it more affordable to the masses. Research, planning, and proper execution are key to minimizing the effects of Mod hell. And if you did your homework and everything is in line then you should be enjoyin your ride rather than cursin the day you bought it...
