Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

I'm in a bit of a jam and could use a little help from the car guy community. My 07 CTS-V suffered a low speed, front impact today while out of town in Maryland and my front bumper and radiator, at a minimum, are toast. Scheduled to pack up the family and leave for Chicago Wednesday morning. I have limited tools and supplies on hand and am trying to find a write-up on radiator removal and replacement. Normally I'm equipped well enough to tackle an unknown project like this with patience and general mechanical knowledge, but due to the unique circumstances, I need as many shortcuts as possible. If someone has a link to a how-to, I've yet to find it on my own.

I'm trying to get in touch with Lindsay Cadillac to have an OEM radiator overnighted to me in Frederick, MD, but can't get through to them on the phone at the moment, which is a bit odd. On the off chance anyone is from this area and can lend a hand, the food and beverages are on me.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...ls6-cts-v.html

i know it says damper install but one of the steps is pulling the rad.
man you picked a bad night. i would be down to help you but i have plans with the kids tonight.

D.K

iTrader: (1)

I can do what I can to help out, but you're a ways North of me. If you can make it down to the Waldorf area, I have tool but no replacement parts, unfortunately.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the link. Replacement radiator from Lindsay should be here tomorrow. Believe it or not, getting the under tray off while the car is on the ground was the most time consuming part. I wasn't sure about the rubber air seal attached to the passenger side of the radiator, it got pulled out of place pretty bad and I think most of the attachment points have been ripped off as I lifted the rad out. The passenger mounting post got cracked off and that's where I lost all my coolant. The AC condensor has a pretty big bend in it at the end tank on the passemger side, worried I may have lost AC as well. The radiator repair may be in vain if I have no AC as an 11.5hr drive with the family depends on that system.

Once I get home, I'm going to need a new bumper, new grills top and bottom, a new fog/parking light, new headlamp, paint, and powder coating... I don't have it in me to drop the hood and see if that took a hit as well. Too hot and dehydrated. I should have stayed home and gone to work.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to hear about your accident. Hope you make it home safely!

TheAce

Here's a link to a discussion about Radiator part#'s and interchages.

Hope it helps....

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...2004-ctsv.html

demang

iTrader: (3)

Hope you can make it back and the ac last long enough to get you home. If you were close to me i would help you out.

demang

iTrader: (3)

Pm me your email and i could send you the pictures.




Your Vehicle: 2005 Cadillac CTS V8-5.7L VIN S

Vehicle » Engine, Cooling and Exhaust » Cooling System » Radiator » Service and Repair


Service and Repair

Radiator Replacement (LS6)


Tools Required
J 38185 Hose Clamp Pliers
J 44827 Transmission Cooler Quick Disconnect
Removal Procedure
Drain the coolant.
Remove the radiator support brackets.
Remove the cooling fans.



Remove the 2 upper condenser mounting bolts (1).
Using the J 38185 disconnect the upper radiator hose clamp.
Remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator.
Using the J 38185 disconnect the surge tank inlet hose clamp.
Remove the surge tank hose from the radiator.



Using J 38185 disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator.



Remove the front air deflector.
Notice: The transmission oil cooler system uses quick connect fittings throughout the system. Use a special tool to disconnect these quick connect fittings. Removing the transmission oil cooler lines without this tool will result in damage to the radiator, the transmission, and the transmission oil cooler caused by mixing the transmission oil and coolant or due to transmission oil loss.
Using J 44827 disconnect the lower transaxle oil cooler line from the radiator.




Remove the lower condenser mounting bolts (1).
Remove the push pins from the radiator side seal.
Separate the side seals from the radiator.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the radiator.
Installation Procedure
Install the radiator into the insulator in the frame.



Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the upper condenser mounting bolts (1).
Tighten the bolts to 6.5 Nm (58 inch lbs.).




Raise the vehicle.
Install the lower condenser mounting bolts (1). Tighten the bolts to 6.5 Nm (58 inch lbs.).
Push the lower transaxle oil cooler lines into the radiator until you hear the lines engage.
Gently tug out on the oil cooler lines to verify that the lines are engaged into position.



Connect the lower radiator hose to the radiator.
Using J 38185 slide the clamp into the original position on the hose.
Install the side seal pushpin into the radiator.
Ensure that all seals are in place around the radiator.
Lower the vehicle.
Install the upper radiator hose to the radiator.
Using the J 38185 reposition the upper radiator hose clamp.
Install the surge tank hose to the radiator.
Using the J 38185 reposition the surge tank inlet hose clamp.
Install the cooling fans.
Install the radiator supports.
Fill the cooling system.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

Thanks everyone for the tips and links. Rad is out, replacement here tomorrow. Now on to the AC. If I replace the condenser, aside from driving to a shop for a recharge, do I need to replace anything else once the sealed system is opened? It sounds like a dryer at minimum. I can get those on a next day basis from Autozone if I order today.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Its nice to have fresh o-rings and the dryer is a given but other than that, you should be golden. Its when the compressor lets go that you tend to have "clean-up" issues.

Good Luck

DrSpeed

iTrader: (4)

Ha! That was my writeup - I was gonna post it.

If you were out in PDX, I'd have you come over to knock it out in 30 minutes!

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

AC system seems to be intact, nothing leaking around condenser end tank, which appears to be the integrated dryer. Washer fluid reservoir has a busted mount and smashed bracket, leaky hose fitting on the washer pump, and torn up radiator rubber air dams, none of which should keep me off the road.

Now, I just hope the UPS guy shows up on time.

hefftone

My radiator has provision for ATF lines. Spectra, believe its for V6 Auto....everything fit and has been working fine. It was under V1 on rock auto, but now its under the V6 model...oh well.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

If you're referring to the sheet rubber things on either side of the radiator (that channel the air to the radiator rather than letting it sneak around the sides), then the new OEM radiator comes with those, with all the little plastic push-pins installed and ready to go.

Good luck with the replacement, hope it goes well and you're able to hit the road as planned!

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

When you watch your car drive into and destroy a pile of old kitchen cabinets, pictures are not your first instinct. My wife is probably happy that the event was not photo documented.

Car held together for the drive home, no leaks, no noises. I'm going to call my insurance agent later today and start the embarrassing process of an at fault collision claim. I can't imagine finding a new OEM bumper is going to be easy...

hanks again for everyone's help.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

good to hear you made it. hopefully when shes all back to 100% it will make for a funny story. you have to work hard to find a pile of kitchen cabinets to run into.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

Indeed, but better than running directly into the house.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

barely left a scratch on those cabinets. these V's are damn fragile. seems if anything touches them quarter panels crease, supports snap, etc.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

Solid wood cabinets, previously in donate-able condition. That's not the exact crime scene, rather the compiled mess of what was left. They were torn up pretty good. Punched the mesh inserts out of both grilles, nearly ripped the lower half of the bumper clean off, sent a lower cabinet drawer through lower grill opening, occupying the same space as the condenser and radiator, reshaping them in the process.