500hp on 10 bolt 7.6
05-08-2024, 09:32 AM
#2
A girdle cover w/ preload bolts stiffens up the housing and helps stabilize the differential, but does nothing to the "weak link" in the 7.5" 10-bolt, which is the pinion / bearing / housing area. The shorter distance from the nose of the pinion to the rear axle C/L results in more reactionary force being applied on the nose of the pinion for a given tire-torque level than for a 8.5" or larger rear. If you have an auto and stock-ish street tires, it'll probably hold up (and produce nice smoke-shows), but meaty rear tires and hard launches (or hard shifts w/ a manual) will kill it, even at stock-ish power levels. Ask me how I know.
My recommendation is to not drop a dime on the 7.5" 10-bolt and upgrade to something beefier.
My recommendation is to not drop a dime on the 7.5" 10-bolt and upgrade to something beefier.
05-08-2024, 10:22 AM
#3
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A girdle cover w/ preload bolts stiffens up the housing and helps stabilize the differential, but does nothing to the "weak link" in the 7.5" 10-bolt, which is the pinion / bearing / housing area. The shorter distance from the nose of the pinion to the rear axle C/L results in more reactionary force being applied on the nose of the pinion for a given tire-torque level than for a 8.5" or larger rear. If you have an auto and stock-ish street tires, it'll probably hold up (and produce nice smoke-shows), but meaty rear tires and hard launches (or hard shifts w/ a manual) will kill it, even at stock-ish power levels. Ask me how I know.
My recommendation is to not drop a dime on the 7.5" 10-bolt and upgrade to something beefier.
My recommendation is to not drop a dime on the 7.5" 10-bolt and upgrade to something beefier.
05-08-2024, 11:13 AM
#5
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if this is a f body your talkin bout yes you have a straight axle . me personally i wouldnt put much money in it ( ive blown 4+ and dont have much faith in em) others will say they can live a OK life if auto and no sticky tires but ive killed every 10 bolt ive ever owned, a strange s60 with a s trac will live through almost anything. go look at midwest chassis to get an idea of what your getting into.
05-08-2024, 12:30 PM
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if this is a f body your talkin bout yes you have a straight axle . me personally i wouldnt put much money in it ( ive blown 4+ and dont have much faith in em) others will say they can live a OK life if auto and no sticky tires but ive killed every 10 bolt ive ever owned, a strange s60 with a s trac will live through almost anything. go look at midwest chassis to get an idea of what your getting into.
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05-08-2024, 04:08 PM
#8
if this is a f body your talkin bout yes you have a straight axle . me personally i wouldnt put much money in it ( ive blown 4+ and dont have much faith in em) others will say they can live a OK life if auto and no sticky tires but ive killed every 10 bolt ive ever owned, a strange s60 with a s trac will live through almost anything. go look at midwest chassis to get an idea of what your getting into.
A girdle cover w/ preload bolts stiffens up the housing and helps stabilize the differential, but does nothing to the "weak link" in the 7.5" 10-bolt, which is the pinion / bearing / housing area. The shorter distance from the nose of the pinion to the rear axle C/L results in more reactionary force being applied on the nose of the pinion for a given tire-torque level than for a 8.5" or larger rear. If you have an auto and stock-ish street tires, it'll probably hold up (and produce nice smoke-shows), but meaty rear tires and hard launches (or hard shifts w/ a manual) will kill it, even at stock-ish power levels. Ask me how I know.
My recommendation is to not drop a dime on the 7.5" 10-bolt and upgrade to something beefier.
My recommendation is to not drop a dime on the 7.5" 10-bolt and upgrade to something beefier.
What gear ratio were you guys running when you killed them so easily?
05-09-2024, 06:52 AM
#10
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3 of them 3.23 with ls1 stock internal, stock head ,big cam , intake/headers/true dual ,3600+ stall ,umi long arm , legit street tires no drag set up at all. the other two were in s-10 square body, belive it or not a hopped up berreta 3.4 motor with nitrous, in place of a blown turd 2.8 . i just cant do the hole 10 bolt thing..... now a full size truck 10 bolt (8.5 ring) can live if you stud the main caps use a good locker and a diff girdle, thats what my procharged 4.8 with nitrous and 35 in tires and 4.88 gears was rockin, i dont have it anymore but still see it out on the street every now and again. looking at op last post i think he has a hummer h3 truck im guessing, and that might be a 8.5 10 bolt.
05-09-2024, 09:51 AM
#14
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Sadly there's like.. 3 people on the h3 forums making any decent power. The h3 does have a 8.6 for the rear. But a 7.6 for the front. I feel like my only options to go with less power or do a solid axle swap
05-09-2024, 03:58 PM
#15
7.5 is garbage. Call quick performance. Won't cost 4k. Maybe 2800-3200 for rear end. If you get a new torque arm and lower control arms then I'd see it getting closer to 4k. But if you plan on making 500hp then you should already have these things...
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Y2K_Frenzy (05-17-2024)
05-17-2024, 07:35 PM
#19
This right here. State some details not something about on par of trying to get information out of a 6yr old.
People expect you to read their fckn minds....
For everyone else who hasn't caught it yet from the very detailed initial post, this is the FRONT Diff in a Hummer H3....
People expect you to read their fckn minds....
For everyone else who hasn't caught it yet from the very detailed initial post, this is the FRONT Diff in a Hummer H3....
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Ls7colorado (05-17-2024)