Check engine light comes on under hard acceleration.
12-10-2014, 10:20 PM
#1
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Check engine light comes on under hard acceleration. As title says my check engine light cones on under hard acceleration and I have no idea why. Happened while car was stock and is doing it now with a SLP cold air intake. Replaced the plugs old ones looked like crap. It runs like a champ and pulls hard I let out of the gas when it comes on so don't know if it stumbles or not. Will go off after about a day or 2 of normal driving. I am stumpted on this one guys. Is it a misfire, o2 sensors, or something else?
12-12-2014, 12:22 PM
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I've had the same problem happen five times; each time, it was the Bank 2 Lean code. I've always taken my car to AutoZone, had the code read, and then erased. The light goes off, and everything appears to be copacetic afterwards.
This only happens to me in the cold months of winter, and, in each each situation, I've only driven my car for about 5 - 7 minutes and then floored it on the interstate before the light comes on.
I'm not a mechanic, and I don't presume to have any professional expertise in this area, but here's what I suspect may cause this problem in my situation: I haven't given my car enough time to properly warm up.
Here's why I believe this is the case in my specific application: I have an Ultra-Z hood, an SLP high-flow air lid, an SLP under-car ram air duct, and I've completed the "free air mod" on the bottom of my air box assembly. I've also added Red Line Water Wetter to my coolant fluid.
In short, my engine gets a lot of cool air very easily, which is great in the summer. But, in cold weather, I think that all the extra air may not allow my engine to reach the proper operating temperature the car's computer expects by the time time it's expecting it to.
I've found that, when I start my car and then leave it idling in the driveway for 5 - 10 minutes in cold weather, afterward, I can then go and have as much "fun" with it as I want, as fast as I want, without the code being thrown.
This is just my experience and my hypothesis based on what I've observed, but, to date, day after day, week after week, after two years of experimentation, the outcomes have remained constant.
My car has 54,5XX miles on the body and about 14,XXX miles on the LS-6 engine that I had installed brand-new at my local Chevrolet dealership.
I wish you the best of luck with your car!
This only happens to me in the cold months of winter, and, in each each situation, I've only driven my car for about 5 - 7 minutes and then floored it on the interstate before the light comes on.
I'm not a mechanic, and I don't presume to have any professional expertise in this area, but here's what I suspect may cause this problem in my situation: I haven't given my car enough time to properly warm up.
Here's why I believe this is the case in my specific application: I have an Ultra-Z hood, an SLP high-flow air lid, an SLP under-car ram air duct, and I've completed the "free air mod" on the bottom of my air box assembly. I've also added Red Line Water Wetter to my coolant fluid.
In short, my engine gets a lot of cool air very easily, which is great in the summer. But, in cold weather, I think that all the extra air may not allow my engine to reach the proper operating temperature the car's computer expects by the time time it's expecting it to.
I've found that, when I start my car and then leave it idling in the driveway for 5 - 10 minutes in cold weather, afterward, I can then go and have as much "fun" with it as I want, as fast as I want, without the code being thrown.
This is just my experience and my hypothesis based on what I've observed, but, to date, day after day, week after week, after two years of experimentation, the outcomes have remained constant.
My car has 54,5XX miles on the body and about 14,XXX miles on the LS-6 engine that I had installed brand-new at my local Chevrolet dealership.
I wish you the best of luck with your car!
12-18-2014, 09:33 AM
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Pulled the codes and it read all 4 o2 sensors reading low voltage, all 4 reading banks are lean. And ICS is bad. But after a while the codes go away. Also on a cold start it sounds like it's not running on all 8 until its warm so would my coils be going bad?
