UNKNOWN_SS

Hello all, so I still have my ls1 in my camaro but I'll soon be converting to an ls3/t56 combo. What all would I need for this to work and if there's any links to where to buy the parts would be great. I have the complete ls3 with ecu and all ready the go I just need the guidance. Thanks in advance fellas.

G Atsma

There is a massive sticky thread on this very subject in the Gen IV Internal Engine forum. See if that might help you.

UNKNOWN_SS

Thanks man. Appreciate that.

G Atsma

No sweat man! Good luck!

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

Everything bolts right in with stock accessories. The only part to work out is electronics.

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

Gotta use lingenfelter 58x 24 x converter, drill the block for the ls1 knock sensors order the cam position extension harness for the cam position sensor. need to order a 4 bolt cable throttle body and then use the stock LS3 fuel rails and intake.

past that absolutely everything off the LS1 will bolt to the LS3

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

Haha, wow don't do all of that. The cam sensors hasn't changed pins and I've swapped from front to rear sensor on several standalone systems, so just run an extension to the front cover and use a 1X upper gear. The crank reluctor and sensor can be changed and setup with whatever you want if your building the motor or willing to pull the crank.

There is also the stand alone option. Pretty sure I lost traction control and I hope to still have ABS for rain, but I have not tested either in my limited miles.

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

If you want to disassemble the motor to swap the crank, timing gear, and cover then yep you don't have to use the lingenfelter converter but past that everything mentioned is required. Way easier to keep the stock pcm controlling everything and it all works correctly when finished if you are just wanting to change the motor with minor mods and not have a frankenstein when you are done.

FWIW I'd swap crank route and required parts not to have to use the lingenfelter converter. But if you want leave it as is drop it in and go the lingenfelter box is the only way and manage to keep the factory pcm operating and controlling everything correctly

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

Why can't you extend to wires for the knock sensors rather than drilling into the block? Are they in the same position on the LS3 as the LS2?

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

No the knock sensor on LS2 and up engines are mounted on pads on either side of the block not in the lifter valley like all LS LQ truck motors. No biggie just drill existing bolt hole on either side a hair larger and tap it with the correct thread tap for the older model knock sensors then get the racetronix knock extension harness. Yes you can cut splice etc but the ready to go harness is way easier especially since the stock harness connectors on the knock sensors are so crispy due to their location there is generally no re using them once removed or they shatter when trying to squeeze them to remove them. nothing scary easy peasy.

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

So you can't use the LS3 knock sensors rather than drilling into a perfectly good block? Is there something that doesn't work with the harness or PCM?

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

My response on the cam sensor was to the post before which I read wrong. Anyways. The Gen IV knock sensors are two wire which you can get around by grounding on lead to the block on aftermarket system, but the stock system is set to used single wire that have only one frequency so I'm pretty sure you can't use them. You can make an adapter to screw the Gen III sensors into and then bolt the block where the Gen IV mount. They guy managing the Holley forums made these. http://forums.holley.com/attachment....5&d=1368900844

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

I would just rather get away from any more drilling into the block ya know?

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

^ its actually not as bad as it sounds. Drilling isnt really what you are doing as much as changing the thread size in a whole that already exists. I was tempted to dig up images of both sensors so you could see the difference as it would likely make more sense seeing them side by side.....but thats work.

Personally I would just do a stand alone harness and have all the errors tuned out. Im actually running a stand alone for my setup but its still a ls1 ecm but the car was a v6 to start off with. I went stand alone becasue I was doing some other things along with the swap and it was just simpler for me to bypass the stock wiring and not have to convert it all. If I were going ls3 which I have considered since Im having some issues with my current setup, id still do a stand alone.

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

I'm just paranoid lol

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

Make those adapters like I posted. It's just a block of brass or aluminum with a hole to bolt to the block and a threaded hole to screw in the sensor. If you mess that up you get another piece.

I did stand alone also. Stock is cheaper for the computer, but the stand alone harness and tuning software are not cheap. Many people can do the harness, but your still need software of your own the get full access like any aftermarket system. Can wait to valet my car when it's running. Pull up sounding good with 600+ HP and the DBW limited to 10% so it can't get above parking lot speed.

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

The LS LQ motors use a resonant signal knock sensor all the LS2 and newer motors use what;s called a flat response knock sensor. The LS pcm does not recognize nor can it be programmed to recongnize the flat response knock sensors.

Knock is talking in english and the computers talking in deutch they both talking but neither knows or can interpret the other so to speak.

Damm guys you are changing a motor and scared to drill a block we are supposed to be hot rodders nut up grow a pair and drill that bitch don't over complicate a simple solution. It's not crazy deal you just open it up a little then run a tap in to rethread it.

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

I guess it's just how my mind works, I like to know a reason why I can't use something.

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

Well heck I may stand corrected seeing as the last time I encountered this was with the LS2 swap on my TA and I tried everything in the book before I gave up drilled the block and reinstalled the LS style knocks and removed the LS2 style knocks. I just couldn't get the knocks to function correctly and I had 3 different sets of people go over it to verify tune and everything else also but that was back in 13.

fast forwards

I opened up HPT after not having looked at my tune in 3 almost 4 years and HPT now has the option to change the knock style to a resonant sensor now. You would then need to find values that are close to correct to put in the tables or you are still up a creek. I did a buncha short reading on here and that's what I came up with but no one has said definitively change it to resonant, insert these values here and it works bad *** as good as factory. I was pissed when I found out how they did mine I was told they were working and I got ahold of a bad tank of fuel and the damm thing clattered like a turbo diesel on light acceleration and knocks never reacted. Upon having my tune verified by another shop I was told they turned off the knocks and disabled all the codes. After that I got HPT and tuned it myself and never looked back.

So if you wanna experiment for us and check back with findings order the racetronix LS2 knock sensor adapter harness, change the sensors to resonant style using HPT find a tuner that can get the settings close and verify the knocks actually work correctly as designed and that would go a long way to closing up the myth.

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

I'll give it a shot whenever I get to that point on my car