alternative to cutting hole in tank for aftermarket fuel gauge??
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alternative to cutting hole in tank for aftermarket fuel gauge??
Hey guys, this is my first time installing aftermarket gauges, so bear with me..I'm a little confused reading this. I'm reading the instructions on installing the fuel level gauge, and the FIRST thing it says to do is cut a hole in the tank. Is this normal?? I REALLY do not want to do that and get metal shavings everywhere.
Does anyone know of ANY way you can install a Classic Instruments fuel level gauge with the stock fuel sender assembly wiring? Or have any pics of the cut-a-hole-in-your-tank setup working?
Here are the instructions they gave me (only 3 pages):
And here is what the sending unit and rheostat looks like:
Is the rheostat supposed to move up and down along with the float? or does it stay put while the float goes up and down?
To anyone out there willing to read all this and point me in the right direction/help me out, can't thank you enough.
Does anyone know of ANY way you can install a Classic Instruments fuel level gauge with the stock fuel sender assembly wiring? Or have any pics of the cut-a-hole-in-your-tank setup working?
Here are the instructions they gave me (only 3 pages):
And here is what the sending unit and rheostat looks like:
Is the rheostat supposed to move up and down along with the float? or does it stay put while the float goes up and down?
To anyone out there willing to read all this and point me in the right direction/help me out, can't thank you enough.
#3
What's the ohm range of the gauge? Most aftermarket gauges actually use GM ohm ranges, and this on may too, meaning you can connect the gauge to your factory sending unit. BTW the GM range is 0 -90 Ohms.
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But there is no part number listed on my fuel gauge at all. Awesome.
I had a feeling you could just splice into the stock sending wire, thanks for confirming that. How exactly do you "match up" the Ω resistances when you wire up aftermarket gauges?
Last edited by demonpixel; 06-17-2009 at 09:15 AM.
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ok, i talked to Classic and they said i had the wrong fuel gauge and sending unit. the one i have is a 240-33 Ω gauge, and i just need to get the 0-90 Ω version they have. They said the 0-90 Ω is common also, so it shouldn't be a problem to switch out the wrong one I have for the 0-90 one. And I can just use my stock fuel sending unit assembly; the purple wire (which is the sending wire) is what I want to splice into and have that go to the gauge.
They'll be calling me soon to work it out. I feel much better about it now, whew. Sorry for the freakout guys.
They'll be calling me soon to work it out. I feel much better about it now, whew. Sorry for the freakout guys.