You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join LS1Tech.com today!
spent a little time last night working on turbo placement and mocking up the hot side plumbing. I like the tight routing of the down pipe between the engine mount and oil pan, but that will require some creativity on a turbo drain connection to the oil pan, and it will eliminate doing a low alternator mount. But it sure leaves good access to work on the engine. Think the dryer duct will hold up to the exhaust temperature/pressure?
I'm also going to try moving the turbos back, even with the front of the engine & turned facing forward. There are a lot of cause/effects/interferences to consider when laying this stuff out...
Amazing that the last post I made in this thread was from March...
After spending all my car funds on the new front subframe, the project pace really slowed down. I had to save up again to buy a manual steering rack, new 4" diameter driveshaft, and the misc things that always pop up. I found myself mired down in this large conversion/build project, so I set a short term goal of getting the car running naturally aspirated for this summer, and then start the turbo install this fall. I specifically wanted to have it running by July 23 so I could drive it to my daughter's Cheerleading car show. Of course putting together an advertisers program for the show took a bunch of my time over the past week, but last night I finally hit the key - and it started right up. I haven't driven it yet and it still has open exhaust manifolds, the hood isn't on yet, the front end isn't aligned... but I just may wash it off and drive it 5 miles to the school tomorrow. Idle tuning with the Accufab throttle body may be a little challenging. But I'll figure it out. For now - it runs, has good oil pressure, & I haven't found any leaks yet.
It felt good to reach a goal with it. I took a 3 mile run afterwards, and I don't even like to run.
So, no video or new pictures just yet. But I'll work on that this weekend.
Thanks for the update. I've been checking for updates periodically. I think refocusing your immediate plans on NA for the summer is a good idea. Both financially and the project workload. Walk before you learn to run. LOL.
Well, I ended up not driving it to the show. My start-up tune had it way lean and it wouldn't keep running in gear. Today after some adjustments on the VE table, I have it running well enough for a drive around the block. I still don't have the exhaust connected so I can't connect my wideband O2 sensor. I'll have to take it by an exhaust shop this week to get some pipe work.
I'm really liking the throttle response from the Accufab 4150 throttle body. Can't wait to give it some gas in gear after I get it tuned better.
Here are a couple recent pictures with it outside for the first time in months...
Very nice build! Making at go at a turbo LS myself for my Nova and I'm very thankful for threads like this one to give me inspiration as well as insight. I plan on taking my Racecar off the track ditching the SB2 headed gen 1 and heading back to the streets where its cheaper and much more fun! Thanks again for the updates.
Nice build man! I was reading it last week and never finished, glad i didn't since i would have never seen the post that you got it running. I had more or less the same goal of getting it running for this past weekend. I wanted to make it to the only local[within 1 mile] car show. Lets just say it still doesn't run yet.
I feel much better about my intake setup since you comments that the throttle response is good. Mine should be a little more doggy down low with a super vic and 4500tb, but the car is much lighter.
Good luck with the rest of it!
1933 Ford Roadster 404ci, AFR 225's, 11.1:1cr, Lunati Rods, Diamond Pistons, Precision Crank, ARP[main studs, headbolts, FW/PP...everything else] Akerly and Childs Xtreme rings, Cometic head gasket, Super Vic, Fast Rails, LS7 injectors, Edelbrock Dominator TB, Spec Stage2+, C4 Vette front and rear suspension, QA1 Coilovers, Bosch 044, Aremotive Pre and Post Filters, RCI rear sump cell, Dyno Tune 200shot w/ opener, heater... 1972 Buick Skylark [Mild GSX Clone] 350 4b SOLD 2004 1.8t Jetta DD
What shocks are you using on the sub? I need to buy some for mine, not sure what to get!
My Martz frame came with QA1 single adjustable coilovers. The springs are 450 lb/in (I think). I haven't driven it enough to comment on the ride quality. All I have done so far is to crank the height adjustment up about 4-5 turns. One thing I noticed from my short trip down the street yesterday is that the 12" Wildwood front discs lock up pretty easily now. I'll have to make some adjustments to my proportional valve. Seems they have more bite than the OEM disc brakes had.
SB2Nova - it's funny how our vision and goals change over the years. A few years ago I was hot & heavy to pick up a pair of SB2 heads and build the ultimate SBC for street/strip. But the kind of performance people are getting out of turbos, and the relatively economical route of fuel injection with the LSx platform was just too much for me. I hope this build gives me a very streetable yet wicked hp track car, all in one package.
The Nova looks great! You have done one hell of a job!!!
I see I am not the only one using a CPP master no power assist. Since I have not been able to drive mine yet, do you like the master? I see you said it was easy to lock up the brakes so I am assuming it works fine. I just wonder how it will work out with factory 4 wheel disc brakes?
__________________ 1969 Camaro Z/28 (clone) Tick Performance built all-forged 408 LS stroker/PCMforLess tuned (Alvin Anderson) 471rwhp-450ftlbs/T56 4 wheel disc brakes full restoration
The CPP MCPV1 master cylinder is a really nice piece. The self contained proportional valve and stop light switch make it a compact installation, and the bright polish adds some bling. It worked just fine "out of the box" with my OEM front discs and rear drum brakes without a power booster. Now with the larger Wilwood front discs I'll have to adjust a little more bias to the rear brakes. I think you will be fine with all 4 wheel discs. Pedal effort is higher than cars with a power booster, but I prefer the room under the hood. I think you will be happy with your setup too.