5.3L/T56 into 70 Chevelle
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Staging Lane
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5.3L/T56 into 70 Chevelle
Ok, so I've been a member for a while. Seen lots of totally awesome builds (which I used for research of course) and installed my 5.3 into my Chevelle. I guess it's now time to document some of that. I'll get to all the details and go step by step. But for now, here's a "before" pic from February and prior. I was running a TPI/TH400 since 2000, then installed a T56 behind that. Great gas mileage but NOOOOO power. Or RPM range for that matter. So it was time to take the LSX plunge. (more to come)
Me and the car in 1984. I was 4. Don't worry about those corduroys or terry cloth shirt
This is probably around 2004 20 years later.
and this was the motor prior to gutting the engine bay (thank goodness)
Me and the car in 1984. I was 4. Don't worry about those corduroys or terry cloth shirt
This is probably around 2004 20 years later.
and this was the motor prior to gutting the engine bay (thank goodness)
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Engine Removal
So I posted a craigslist add and sold my TPI complete bolt-in with accessories, MSD box etc for $775. I turned around and bought this from LKQ
Not a bad pick up. Complete 5.3L with wiring, computer, TAC box.
Now I just needed to get it in here
Not a bad pick up. Complete 5.3L with wiring, computer, TAC box.
Now I just needed to get it in here
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good luck with the build man. I installing the same thing in my 64 nova. What kind of milage is on your motor? Are you changing out the intake or anything?I will continue to watch to see if I can pickup any tip along the way too.
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I picked up the motor with 94k on it. But as you already know these motors are durable. I haven't changes the intake, but I really want to now. I've been researching what I need to do it. The problem is I have DBW throttle body and that's what gets in the way. Are you using cable or DBW?
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YoungLS1: if your looking for a T56 there's a company out of San Antonio I got mine from. Rebuilt for around $1200-1400. I can't remember the name but I found it via google. They also have performance built options.
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You can change the DBW out for cable. I have seen it done but never done myself. I am currently doing my harness right now. I will update my thread tonight. I would swap the intake jst for looks alone. Look for a guy on here called "406" or something real simular. I know he changes out the drive by wire. I have a spare cut harness laying around so I can extend my pigtails for the ECM into the pass compartment. My otor has 155K on it but I have no worries cause I got it for free beside my labor to do swap for a guy in his tahoe. He made out like a badit.
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#10
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wow
Greasemonkey: you got a hell of a deal. There's nothing wrong with free. My thoughts when starting this was to get the motor into the car, get it running, then once all the bugs are worked out I can worry about HP.
Nascarnate: I would definitely say 5.3 swap. But if you can save a little extra scratch go with the 6.0L.
Gary: You know, I've been searching and looking and I don't think I've found a thread with the spacers and LS1 pump. I've seen the corvette pump, the newer truck pump and trucks with Cable throttle bodies but do you have a link you recommend?
Nascarnate: I would definitely say 5.3 swap. But if you can save a little extra scratch go with the 6.0L.
Gary: You know, I've been searching and looking and I don't think I've found a thread with the spacers and LS1 pump. I've seen the corvette pump, the newer truck pump and trucks with Cable throttle bodies but do you have a link you recommend?
#12
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From your pic, it looks like you have the same style TB that I have on my 02 LQ9. So the L92 water pump wont clear that.
I've seen others refer to spacers but dont know of any builds off hand.
But they're available on ebay if you're interested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-LS1...item20b4ccc77f
I've seen others refer to spacers but dont know of any builds off hand.
But they're available on ebay if you're interested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-LS1...item20b4ccc77f
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Chuckd71: THANKS!! I'm digging your white convertible. Very clean!! I do have a can to throw in it, though I'm waiting until I get done with this Vintage Air kit and some other things. (i guess that answers the other question) I'm getting rid of all the factory AC stuff. I bought the SureFit kit from Vintage air. So far i'm rather impressed with the fit/finish of the kit. I welded up the holes in the firewall I just need to bondo it smooth, sand and paint it. (Quick side note) I saw you bought the Spectra tank. I did to. My pump is on the way out after 4000 miles. Apparently that's a common problem.
Garys68: I'll have to seriously look into it for later. It's a bummer that getting the car intake (with DBW) is such a hassle. I was trying to figure out if there were anyway to use the Corvette throttle body with my current setup. It seems to have more clearance.
Garys68: I'll have to seriously look into it for later. It's a bummer that getting the car intake (with DBW) is such a hassle. I was trying to figure out if there were anyway to use the Corvette throttle body with my current setup. It seems to have more clearance.
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Ok, here's some of the goodies I bought to go along with the motor install. I've been running a T56 for a while and am damn tired of not having a speedo that works. SOOO we're getting all new gauges.
Autometer Ultra-Lite II's I really wish they made a 3 3/8" clock.
ARP rod bolts and ARP flywheel/clutch bolts
And of course poly motor/trans mounts.
Autometer Ultra-Lite II's I really wish they made a 3 3/8" clock.
ARP rod bolts and ARP flywheel/clutch bolts
And of course poly motor/trans mounts.
#15
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I love your car.. my dad would kill for that thing.. he loves the 70 chevelles (of course he'd want an SS) or a 66/67 nova Chevy II
take a look at my build.. I put a LQ4 (6 liter) in a Dad's 69 GTO.... I have the same water pump and I put an LS1 intake on this motor so I know for a fact it can be done. I did switch to a cable throttle body too (post #51 shows how )
I have a lot of info on my build so you can check it out and then let me know if there is anything you have questions about.
have fun with the build... if you do it right you can keep all your truck accessories including the AC compressor.
take a look at my build.. I put a LQ4 (6 liter) in a Dad's 69 GTO.... I have the same water pump and I put an LS1 intake on this motor so I know for a fact it can be done. I did switch to a cable throttle body too (post #51 shows how )
I have a lot of info on my build so you can check it out and then let me know if there is anything you have questions about.
have fun with the build... if you do it right you can keep all your truck accessories including the AC compressor.
Last edited by 2165 Turbo Rail; 02-05-2011 at 09:43 AM.
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Wiring Shenanigans
2165: I saw that thread on the GTO. I'm a HUUUUGGGGEEEE fan. I remember the whole reason I went fuel injection in 2000 was to turbo the car. I like the the way you routed the drivers side exhaust. (though my import buddies claim inefficiency). I like the fact that all the piping isn't under the hood. I'd love to see the car. I'm over off 75/635.
So I took the 5.3 home and began the arduous process of eliminating wires. I removed all the auto trans wiring, rear 02 sensor, EVAP, and EGR wires. It's amazing how much that trimmed down the harness. I started by tagging all the wire locations and de-pinned and un-loomed everything. This looks scary but it's really not too bad.
This is my buddy helping me with some soldering. The grounds within the harness are a spiderweb of joint connections etc. In order to reroute the wiring the direction I wanted to go it would require some modifications.
Now that all the crap was out of the way I started taping it up to prepare for looming.
This was something I found easier to do in the nice A/C habitat of my living room floor. I separated everything out to the RED and BLUE ECU connectors and set aside all the pink (key 12V), Orange (12V constant), black (ground) and the wires for the Tach, Speedo, A/C compressor and Oil Pressure sensor. Also leaving all the wires for the TAC box.
This made things a lot easier to do. Plus you're not having to work with it on the motor.
All Loomed up!
So I took the 5.3 home and began the arduous process of eliminating wires. I removed all the auto trans wiring, rear 02 sensor, EVAP, and EGR wires. It's amazing how much that trimmed down the harness. I started by tagging all the wire locations and de-pinned and un-loomed everything. This looks scary but it's really not too bad.
This is my buddy helping me with some soldering. The grounds within the harness are a spiderweb of joint connections etc. In order to reroute the wiring the direction I wanted to go it would require some modifications.
Now that all the crap was out of the way I started taping it up to prepare for looming.
This was something I found easier to do in the nice A/C habitat of my living room floor. I separated everything out to the RED and BLUE ECU connectors and set aside all the pink (key 12V), Orange (12V constant), black (ground) and the wires for the Tach, Speedo, A/C compressor and Oil Pressure sensor. Also leaving all the wires for the TAC box.
This made things a lot easier to do. Plus you're not having to work with it on the motor.
All Loomed up!
#18
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No problem man. We should meet up over at Kellers one of these Saturday nights ( have you ever been to kellers? It's the hamburger joint on nw why that a bunch of hot rods go to ever Saturday)
I've had people say that about the efficientcy but there are several of my friends that are the exact same was and we all make good power. The Gto made 535. 558. On 8-9 psi. One a stock motor with a cam push rods and springs. Even if it lost a little bit of power, it still looks clean so I like that part too. Not that yours looks bad. Just busy
Are you going to keep the truck intake or switch to a car intake?
I give you credit for doing your harness. I took the easy way out and spent $450 on a n aftermarket harness because we didn't want to mess with cleaning up a factory harness
When do you think you will have it done?
I've had people say that about the efficientcy but there are several of my friends that are the exact same was and we all make good power. The Gto made 535. 558. On 8-9 psi. One a stock motor with a cam push rods and springs. Even if it lost a little bit of power, it still looks clean so I like that part too. Not that yours looks bad. Just busy
Are you going to keep the truck intake or switch to a car intake?
I give you credit for doing your harness. I took the easy way out and spent $450 on a n aftermarket harness because we didn't want to mess with cleaning up a factory harness
When do you think you will have it done?
#19
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Dishes are done man!
2165: Technically it's been done/running since September. I just finally got around to starting this thread. I figure I'll just go step by step and post all the pics at least. Get a little feedback here and there and chat it up. I do know where Kellers is I've just never been there on a Saturday night. We should do that.
I've been daily driving it for the most part. I just recently took the front end apart to replace some stuff that was bent in a little fender-bender. Hood, grille, grille supports, tie bar. While I had all that off I installed the Vintage Air sure fit kit. Also put in the AFCO swap radiator, welded up the firewall (I still need to bondo/sand it)
So here's what it looked like in September
As you can see in this pic my hood was all mangled. So In order to fit the condenser etc in I needed to replace damn near everything on the front.
I took this opportunity to grind down the core support and front frame and shoot them with a couple layers of primer and paint. It feels good to clean it up a bit.
Ready for primer and paint
Condensor install. I must admit, it's a really nice kit. Well researched as far as fitment goes.
New AFCO radiator. VERY worth the money.
After all that, it was break time for a little of this
Welding up the firewall and primer
Modifying the Mercedes Benz C-Class fan to fit better.
This is some of the pics from installing the Vintage Air SureFit kit. I will say once it's installed it's a pretty complete kit and you really won't see anything. It was a bit of a pain to get the hoses through both plates and bolt the EVAP case up.
A little Hushmat down on. Of course this was before it got super cold. This stuff does not play nice in cold weather. In fact it wont stick at all.
And here's the EVAP case bolted in. I still have some trimming of the glove box and all the wiring to do but I needed to get the hoses through. You cannot (im my Technical opinion) install the hoses onto the EVAP case with it bolted into the car.
And here's as of Las night. Much cleaner look. I'm working on painting the ribs of the intake cover right now.
I still need to finish some under dash wiring for gauges and A/C and finish dynamating the firewall. It's been too cold to use the Dynamat so I've been working on other things under the hood. I really need to bondo and paint but that'll wait a little bit.
I've been daily driving it for the most part. I just recently took the front end apart to replace some stuff that was bent in a little fender-bender. Hood, grille, grille supports, tie bar. While I had all that off I installed the Vintage Air sure fit kit. Also put in the AFCO swap radiator, welded up the firewall (I still need to bondo/sand it)
So here's what it looked like in September
As you can see in this pic my hood was all mangled. So In order to fit the condenser etc in I needed to replace damn near everything on the front.
I took this opportunity to grind down the core support and front frame and shoot them with a couple layers of primer and paint. It feels good to clean it up a bit.
Ready for primer and paint
Condensor install. I must admit, it's a really nice kit. Well researched as far as fitment goes.
New AFCO radiator. VERY worth the money.
After all that, it was break time for a little of this
Welding up the firewall and primer
Modifying the Mercedes Benz C-Class fan to fit better.
This is some of the pics from installing the Vintage Air SureFit kit. I will say once it's installed it's a pretty complete kit and you really won't see anything. It was a bit of a pain to get the hoses through both plates and bolt the EVAP case up.
A little Hushmat down on. Of course this was before it got super cold. This stuff does not play nice in cold weather. In fact it wont stick at all.
And here's the EVAP case bolted in. I still have some trimming of the glove box and all the wiring to do but I needed to get the hoses through. You cannot (im my Technical opinion) install the hoses onto the EVAP case with it bolted into the car.
And here's as of Las night. Much cleaner look. I'm working on painting the ribs of the intake cover right now.
I still need to finish some under dash wiring for gauges and A/C and finish dynamating the firewall. It's been too cold to use the Dynamat so I've been working on other things under the hood. I really need to bondo and paint but that'll wait a little bit.
Last edited by wade70ss; 02-07-2011 at 08:51 AM. Reason: Removing deleted photo