BMW e39 540i LQ4/T56 swap project
#1
BMW e39 540i LQ4/T56 swap project
The '68 C-10 I originally swapped my LQ4/T56 into was great, but I didn't get to drive it enough. A few other e39 swap pics made up my mind that one of these was what I really should have done from the beginning.
Looking to daily drive this thing when it's done
Looking to daily drive this thing when it's done
Last edited by Jim_PA; 08-18-2011 at 06:59 AM.
#4
Dropping it in -- LQ4 Lunati 60517 cam, 243 heads, 42lb injectors, LS6 intake, C6 accessory drive and TDP Stage 2 rebuilt t56 with Diamond clutch and MGW shifter.
Swapping out the factory 2.64 diff for some 3.15's to help with the T56 gearing
Swapping out the factory 2.64 diff for some 3.15's to help with the T56 gearing
Last edited by Jim_PA; 08-12-2011 at 09:27 AM.
#5
Got some work done on the e-box and engine bay. I'm hoping I didn't remove something I needed... Like the green relay in the e-box. Don't know where it went, but nothing was hooked up to it anymore, so I'm hoping for the best. I did have the fuel pump working, but after my wire hacking, I can't tell if it's still working or not because I finally got the aftermarket fuel rail to seal...
Re-used the 5-slot fuse holder - 2 are hot all the time, the other 3 are powered by the DME relay.
Used 2 additional relays to convert polarity since BMW wiring wants ground to activate the DME and fuel pump relays.
I left plenty of length coming out of any connector I messed with in case I cut something that was needed. I spent a good bit of time checking and double checking where things went. If it went back into the wiring abyss in the E-box, I left it alone.
Still have not heard back from the driveshaft shop. I'm considering buying a reman from turner and having someone else weld the 1310 yoke on the front. I have a feeling he's just going to call me one day and tell me it needs a new CV and center bearing and it will cost about $600 for everything. At that point I'm better off getting the reman with the servicable u-jont.
This is about as good as the wiring is going to get across the engine. Glad there's enough room behind the engine to hide some of the wires
Re-used the 5-slot fuse holder - 2 are hot all the time, the other 3 are powered by the DME relay.
Used 2 additional relays to convert polarity since BMW wiring wants ground to activate the DME and fuel pump relays.
I left plenty of length coming out of any connector I messed with in case I cut something that was needed. I spent a good bit of time checking and double checking where things went. If it went back into the wiring abyss in the E-box, I left it alone.
Still have not heard back from the driveshaft shop. I'm considering buying a reman from turner and having someone else weld the 1310 yoke on the front. I have a feeling he's just going to call me one day and tell me it needs a new CV and center bearing and it will cost about $600 for everything. At that point I'm better off getting the reman with the servicable u-jont.
This is about as good as the wiring is going to get across the engine. Glad there's enough room behind the engine to hide some of the wires
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#12
The stock 540i/6-speed rear diff is 2.64. The stock 540i Automatic trans diff is 3.15. It uses 12mm flange bolts (instead of 10mm on the 2.64), so I simply tapped my diff flanges off the original 2.64 rear, and slid them into the 3.15 diff. Otherwise, you'd need to buy new half shafts (for the larger diameter 12mm bolts). If I ever need to replace my half shafts, I will probably go to the larger 12mm just because
As far as I know... the M5 diff is 210mm just like the 540's. The advantage to the M5 diff is that it was available with limited slip, whereas no 540 ever came with one. To use an M5 diff, you have to swap a whole bunch of other stuff (about $1500-$2000).
I might eventually do this: http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/index.php/to..._1#entry307778
But for now, the 3.15 open diff I got for under $300 shipped is going to do just fine
#13
I sure hope so. I have been grounded this week with no electricity and a vacation the previous week that was ended early by the hurricane. This blows....
A radiator mount, diff/driveshaft install, and just a little bit of wiring and this thing is ready to light-off.
Check for problems, fab up the exhaust, and it should be ready to drive
Stupid hurricanes!
A radiator mount, diff/driveshaft install, and just a little bit of wiring and this thing is ready to light-off.
Check for problems, fab up the exhaust, and it should be ready to drive
Stupid hurricanes!
#14
TECH Resident
iTrader: (18)
No, I bought the mounts and headers from a member Bwmman528e over on bimmerforums.com
The stock 540i/6-speed rear diff is 2.64. The stock 540i Automatic trans diff is 3.15. It uses 12mm flange bolts (instead of 10mm on the 2.64), so I simply tapped my diff flanges off the original 2.64 rear, and slid them into the 3.15 diff. Otherwise, you'd need to buy new half shafts (for the larger diameter 12mm bolts). If I ever need to replace my half shafts, I will probably go to the larger 12mm just because
As far as I know... the M5 diff is 210mm just like the 540's. The advantage to the M5 diff is that it was available with limited slip, whereas no 540 ever came with one. To use an M5 diff, you have to swap a whole bunch of other stuff (about $1500-$2000).
I might eventually do this: http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/index.php/to..._1#entry307778
But for now, the 3.15 open diff I got for under $300 shipped is going to do just fine
The stock 540i/6-speed rear diff is 2.64. The stock 540i Automatic trans diff is 3.15. It uses 12mm flange bolts (instead of 10mm on the 2.64), so I simply tapped my diff flanges off the original 2.64 rear, and slid them into the 3.15 diff. Otherwise, you'd need to buy new half shafts (for the larger diameter 12mm bolts). If I ever need to replace my half shafts, I will probably go to the larger 12mm just because
As far as I know... the M5 diff is 210mm just like the 540's. The advantage to the M5 diff is that it was available with limited slip, whereas no 540 ever came with one. To use an M5 diff, you have to swap a whole bunch of other stuff (about $1500-$2000).
I might eventually do this: http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/index.php/to..._1#entry307778
But for now, the 3.15 open diff I got for under $300 shipped is going to do just fine
You can swap in a M5 differential for well under $1k.
#15
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bend Oregon
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What type of clutch master is that? I am using a BMW clutch master but the one you are using looks like it would work better. I saw Tilton has on like that but looks a little different then yours.
#17
Here it is running!
Still some things left to do before it comes down off the jackstands but engine running is good progress.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIf-qdRE4kU
Still some things left to do before it comes down off the jackstands but engine running is good progress.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIf-qdRE4kU
#19
The headers and mounts are great, quality is very nice!
AC from an F or Y body won't work, I'll have to come up with a custom bracket, and might need to switch to a sanden compressor, but drop-in mounts, headers and oil pan made it totally worth it!