LQ4/T56 into 05 Subaru Legacy
#43
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Haven't updated in a while but the heads came back a couple weeks ago. I ended up replacing all the intake valves as there were 4 that were confirmed as bent. The shop re-did all the seats and milled the heads 0.03
As an FYI, I was able to buy the LSA intake valves as they are the same size as the L92 valves I had. For reference, that part no is: 12605223 and they run just under $5 each and I was able to get 8 of them for around $42 shipped
As an FYI, I was able to buy the LSA intake valves as they are the same size as the L92 valves I had. For reference, that part no is: 12605223 and they run just under $5 each and I was able to get 8 of them for around $42 shipped
#44
Launching!
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I also picked up some GTO Motor mount brackets along with their biscuit mounts. They are real close to working with my subframe but the actual bottom portion of the biscuit is a little wide. Does anyone have suggestions for similar mounts that are not as wide?
#46
btlegacy,
what material are the LSA intake valves?
thanks,
Jim
what material are the LSA intake valves?
thanks,
Jim
#48
I noticed you are thinking of dropping the subframe to better fit the engine. Is the steering rack mounted to the subframe? Have you considered that moving the steering rack will change the steering geometry?
#51
Launching!
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I took the bellhousing off the transmission and mounted it on the mockup motor. I also placed some shims on the subframe to lower it about 3/4". I had to make about a 3/8in dent on the drivers side of the tunnel so the bellhousing would clear.
I then put the motor on jackstands and aligned it into place. The steering rack now has much more clearance and went from being about 3" below the subframe to about 1" below the subframe. The motor still has a little room to be raised so I may only have to drop the rack about 1/2" which I can make up for with a bumpsteer kit
The intake sticks out only slightly and I am able to close the hood but it very tight but I should be able to slightly modify that portion of the hood to clear
I then put the motor on jackstands and aligned it into place. The steering rack now has much more clearance and went from being about 3" below the subframe to about 1" below the subframe. The motor still has a little room to be raised so I may only have to drop the rack about 1/2" which I can make up for with a bumpsteer kit
The intake sticks out only slightly and I am able to close the hood but it very tight but I should be able to slightly modify that portion of the hood to clear
#54
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The adjustable height tie rod ends will help you get there. I see the ones you posted use spacers. I think Howe has some continuously adjustable ones if you really want to dial things in. Speedway also sells some continuously adjustable ones that use nuts on either side of the heim and they are very inexpensive (~$10 for the tapered stud plus the cost of the heim). I'm not sure if you have the same taper, but worst case you could ream your spindles to match.
#58
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We made some progress in the last few days. The Miata is on the ground with the Engine, trans and rear end mounted. We have started wiring it up.
On the Subaru, we cut out 3/4" subframe spacers from aluminum and got the subframe in position.
Then we trimmed the subframe so we had enough clearance to be able to weld rectangle bar and steel plate in to reinforce.
We were able to get the engine level and positioned and started welding from the engine mounts towards the frame rails.
The plan is to use the rectangle bar to get from the mounts to the frame. then weld the bar to the subframe and then we are going to user 1 1/2" square bar to make a box around the oil pan and connect it to the radiator support at the front. I will post some pics shortly of where we are so far
Pic of the subframe spacer
Pic of new, much improved steering rack clearance
Starting to build the new subframe
On the Subaru, we cut out 3/4" subframe spacers from aluminum and got the subframe in position.
Then we trimmed the subframe so we had enough clearance to be able to weld rectangle bar and steel plate in to reinforce.
We were able to get the engine level and positioned and started welding from the engine mounts towards the frame rails.
The plan is to use the rectangle bar to get from the mounts to the frame. then weld the bar to the subframe and then we are going to user 1 1/2" square bar to make a box around the oil pan and connect it to the radiator support at the front. I will post some pics shortly of where we are so far
Pic of the subframe spacer
Pic of new, much improved steering rack clearance
Starting to build the new subframe
#59
Launching!
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Did some more work on the subframe today. Will probably pull it out after thanksgiving to finish reinforcing it and paint it. We also threw in the stock radiator and fans and mocked up the water pump and the pictures below show that there is plenty of space in front of the motor