GuildJS

iTrader: (1)

amazing swap! can't wait to see it running.

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. We are chugging away. Going to work on the subframe some more this week and send off the heads to be worked over

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

Haven't updated in a while but the heads came back a couple weeks ago. I ended up replacing all the intake valves as there were 4 that were confirmed as bent. The shop re-did all the seats and milled the heads 0.03

As an FYI, I was able to buy the LSA intake valves as they are the same size as the L92 valves I had. For reference, that part no is: 12605223 and they run just under $5 each and I was able to get 8 of them for around $42 shipped

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

I also picked up some GTO Motor mount brackets along with their biscuit mounts. They are real close to working with my subframe but the actual bottom portion of the biscuit is a little wide. Does anyone have suggestions for similar mounts that are not as wide?

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

Starting to look like an engine now

Jimbo1367

btlegacy,
what material are the LSA intake valves?

thanks,
Jim

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

The valves are steel. I weighed a few of them and they were around 112 grams

Mister Blister

I noticed you are thinking of dropping the subframe to better fit the engine. Is the steering rack mounted to the subframe? Have you considered that moving the steering rack will change the steering geometry?

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

Yep, I have considered that and will use modified tie rods to compensate for the drop

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

I am thinking of something like these tie rod ends, which would bring them down so they are in line with the steering racl

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

I took the bellhousing off the transmission and mounted it on the mockup motor. I also placed some shims on the subframe to lower it about 3/4". I had to make about a 3/8in dent on the drivers side of the tunnel so the bellhousing would clear.

I then put the motor on jackstands and aligned it into place. The steering rack now has much more clearance and went from being about 3" below the subframe to about 1" below the subframe. The motor still has a little room to be raised so I may only have to drop the rack about 1/2" which I can make up for with a bumpsteer kit

The intake sticks out only slightly and I am able to close the hood but it very tight but I should be able to slightly modify that portion of the hood to clear

cprmn14

Almost there!

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

Yes sir, we are going to try and do the wiring harness for my buddy's Miata and finish my engine mounting and subframe this week

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

If you are moving the rack down, you will want to move the outer tie rod end pivot points down by the same amount or move the inner tie rod ends up by that amount or split the difference. What's important is that the angle of the tie rod swings in an arc that approximately replicates the arc of the spindle to keep bump steer to a minimum.

The adjustable height tie rod ends will help you get there. I see the ones you posted use spacers. I think Howe has some continuously adjustable ones if you really want to dial things in. Speedway also sells some continuously adjustable ones that use nuts on either side of the heim and they are very inexpensive (~$10 for the tapered stud plus the cost of the heim). I'm not sure if you have the same taper, but worst case you could ream your spindles to match.

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

That sounds like a great idea. Do you have a link to the ones that are adjustable by nut?

t_raven

iTrader: (12)

Cool swap. I just wanted to mention something in case you haven't thought about it yet. I'm pretty sure the wheel bearings need to be held together by the axles. You could just take the ends off the CV joints and install and torque them.

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

I have considered that and will use the CV ends to help with bearing integrity

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

We made some progress in the last few days. The Miata is on the ground with the Engine, trans and rear end mounted. We have started wiring it up.

On the Subaru, we cut out 3/4" subframe spacers from aluminum and got the subframe in position.

Then we trimmed the subframe so we had enough clearance to be able to weld rectangle bar and steel plate in to reinforce.

We were able to get the engine level and positioned and started welding from the engine mounts towards the frame rails.

The plan is to use the rectangle bar to get from the mounts to the frame. then weld the bar to the subframe and then we are going to user 1 1/2" square bar to make a box around the oil pan and connect it to the radiator support at the front. I will post some pics shortly of where we are so far


Pic of the subframe spacer





Pic of new, much improved steering rack clearance


Starting to build the new subframe

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

Did some more work on the subframe today. Will probably pull it out after thanksgiving to finish reinforcing it and paint it. We also threw in the stock radiator and fans and mocked up the water pump and the pictures below show that there is plenty of space in front of the motor

MrPotatoeHead

iTrader: (1)

What water pump is that?