Needs opinions on this Z for an LS or RB swap project
07-07-2013, 10:23 AM
#1
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Needs opinions on this Z for an LS or RB swap project http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Running-1976-Datsun-280-z-Classic-with-Extra-Transmission-and-Motor-/281108495902?forcev4exp=true#ht_500wt_1182
I know it says bidding has ended but the car is still for sale and it's about two hours north of me. Just wondering how much work this is gona be versus finding one thats in a little better shape? How bad does the rust look? This will be my first project so I'm kinda scared to jump into it and then it be too much. So basically should I go for this car or save more money and buy one thats in better shape? Thanks.
EDIT: Check out this one for me guys. Looks a lot better I think. Thanks for the feedback on the first one.
http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/3917433148.html
I know it says bidding has ended but the car is still for sale and it's about two hours north of me. Just wondering how much work this is gona be versus finding one thats in a little better shape? How bad does the rust look? This will be my first project so I'm kinda scared to jump into it and then it be too much. So basically should I go for this car or save more money and buy one thats in better shape? Thanks.
EDIT: Check out this one for me guys. Looks a lot better I think. Thanks for the feedback on the first one.
http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/3917433148.html
Last edited by badformulaLS1; 07-07-2013 at 12:39 PM.
07-07-2013, 10:46 AM
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Rust that bad in places you can see suggests that the floors and frame rails may be in bad shape. If you really want it, go look in person. Get under it with a good light and see how much car is actually there.
07-07-2013, 10:52 AM
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Hello there, you know that rust is like the tip of the iceberg! what little you see means much more thats out of sight.Quarters and pans and panels are available but what about the frame? Looks like lots of work to me,I'd wait if it were me but it's your call. Good luck.
07-07-2013, 10:56 AM
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Hello there, you know that rust is like the tip of the iceberg! what little you see means much more thats out of sight.Quarters and pans and panels are available but what about the frame? Looks like lots of work to me,I'd wait if it were me but it's your call. Good luck.
07-07-2013, 11:50 AM
#6
I live and work in the north east rust belt.
I didn't even look at your posting for the car . but can tell you if the rust is bad to were you can see it plain as day and are already second guessing the deal its time to pass.
trust your gut. and pay more for solid over rust repair hell.
I didn't even look at your posting for the car . but can tell you if the rust is bad to were you can see it plain as day and are already second guessing the deal its time to pass.
trust your gut. and pay more for solid over rust repair hell.
07-08-2013, 05:21 AM
#7
Unfortunately he didn't take any pictures of the common rust areas on those cars. I've never seen one rusted so badly that the radiator core support is gone. Can't imagine what it looks like in the battery tray area or lower dog legs.
This site has a link that describes common rust areas on the old Z cars. A bit of rust repair is inevitable, but the last thing you want to do is spend the next 2 years rebuilding sheet metal.
http://zhome.com/
Have him send pics of the areas in that link. I honestly don't think it is worth the gas to drive 4 hours even to look at it.
BTW, IMO a 76 is one of the best years for a V8 swap. The earlier cars are lighter, but that year is much stronger and better made.
That second link looks much more promising. I always worry about fresh paint though, never know what it is covering. Bring a magnet and check for bondo in all the suspect places. See if you can get him to keep his first gen SBC and muncie tran and get the rolling shell for $1500. He probably won't want to go that low but the fact you will be bringing home most of the car in boxes increases the risk of stuff being missing. These old Z cars enjoy a good aftermarket, but after 40 years some stuff is getting hard (i.e. expensive) to come by. Common stuff like bumpers and can be very pricey, but also odd stuff too like dashes and window regulators.
This site has a link that describes common rust areas on the old Z cars. A bit of rust repair is inevitable, but the last thing you want to do is spend the next 2 years rebuilding sheet metal.
http://zhome.com/
Have him send pics of the areas in that link. I honestly don't think it is worth the gas to drive 4 hours even to look at it.
BTW, IMO a 76 is one of the best years for a V8 swap. The earlier cars are lighter, but that year is much stronger and better made.
That second link looks much more promising. I always worry about fresh paint though, never know what it is covering. Bring a magnet and check for bondo in all the suspect places. See if you can get him to keep his first gen SBC and muncie tran and get the rolling shell for $1500. He probably won't want to go that low but the fact you will be bringing home most of the car in boxes increases the risk of stuff being missing. These old Z cars enjoy a good aftermarket, but after 40 years some stuff is getting hard (i.e. expensive) to come by. Common stuff like bumpers and can be very pricey, but also odd stuff too like dashes and window regulators.
Last edited by Pop N Wood; 07-08-2013 at 05:34 AM.
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07-08-2013, 09:36 AM
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Unfortunately he didn't take any pictures of the common rust areas on those cars. I've never seen one rusted so badly that the radiator core support is gone. Can't imagine what it looks like in the battery tray area or lower dog legs.
This site has a link that describes common rust areas on the old Z cars. A bit of rust repair is inevitable, but the last thing you want to do is spend the next 2 years rebuilding sheet metal.
http://zhome.com/
Have him send pics of the areas in that link. I honestly don't think it is worth the gas to drive 4 hours even to look at it.
BTW, IMO a 76 is one of the best years for a V8 swap. The earlier cars are lighter, but that year is much stronger and better made.
That second link looks much more promising. I always worry about fresh paint though, never know what it is covering. Bring a magnet and check for bondo in all the suspect places. See if you can get him to keep his first gen SBC and muncie tran and get the rolling shell for $1500. He probably won't want to go that low but the fact you will be bringing home most of the car in boxes increases the risk of stuff being missing. These old Z cars enjoy a good aftermarket, but after 40 years some stuff is getting hard (i.e. expensive) to come by. Common stuff like bumpers and can be very pricey, but also odd stuff too like dashes and window regulators.
This site has a link that describes common rust areas on the old Z cars. A bit of rust repair is inevitable, but the last thing you want to do is spend the next 2 years rebuilding sheet metal.
http://zhome.com/
Have him send pics of the areas in that link. I honestly don't think it is worth the gas to drive 4 hours even to look at it.
BTW, IMO a 76 is one of the best years for a V8 swap. The earlier cars are lighter, but that year is much stronger and better made.
That second link looks much more promising. I always worry about fresh paint though, never know what it is covering. Bring a magnet and check for bondo in all the suspect places. See if you can get him to keep his first gen SBC and muncie tran and get the rolling shell for $1500. He probably won't want to go that low but the fact you will be bringing home most of the car in boxes increases the risk of stuff being missing. These old Z cars enjoy a good aftermarket, but after 40 years some stuff is getting hard (i.e. expensive) to come by. Common stuff like bumpers and can be very pricey, but also odd stuff too like dashes and window regulators.
07-08-2013, 01:52 PM
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You could be better off in the long run looking for a rust free Z in Arizona or New Mexico. Check Craigslist listings there. Unit body rust repairs are a bit sketchy with these early Zs. Japanese steel wasn't the best in that era. In Albuquerque where I live, the annual rain fall is only 9" a year. The sun rots anything plastic or rubber but metal remains rust free for the most part. My '76 has remained uncovered for 15 years without a bit of rust. Of course, the windows are shut and I keep the rear glass area clean to keep debri from forming which sponges up moisture.