1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon
#61
Spent the weekend working on a sick baby, sick wife and incredibly sick self... so there was no progress with the project.
However, today I did order up a pair of Toyo Proxes TQs in their 345/40R17 size for an outstanding price (with free shipping) from TiresDirect.net. TireRack was useless as usual.
The Mustangs below are on a 10.5" (the black one may be an 11") wide rim and the Vette is on 11" wide rims out back.
I'll be trying these on an 11" wide rim, and have already fit a 315 under a stock frame G-body so this should be very possible with the notch and mini-tub.
However, today I did order up a pair of Toyo Proxes TQs in their 345/40R17 size for an outstanding price (with free shipping) from TiresDirect.net. TireRack was useless as usual.
The Mustangs below are on a 10.5" (the black one may be an 11") wide rim and the Vette is on 11" wide rims out back.
I'll be trying these on an 11" wide rim, and have already fit a 315 under a stock frame G-body so this should be very possible with the notch and mini-tub.
#62
Slowly making some progress again after being away on business much of last week. The pictures are pretty self explanatory: nitrous and amps. LOL!
For those with wagons you probably have noticed that the spare tire well is significantly more shallow toward the rear of the car... as such I had to make a 1x2x4.5 pedestal for the forward bottle bracket to ensure the proper angle for the siphon tube in the bottle.
And I have started wrapping some of the interior panels due to them becoming extremely chalky from UV exposure. I will say that if you were less inclined to vinyl wrap your parts, you could simply drag a razor blade 90* to the surface of the panel until you reached fresh/clean plastic. I did this to prep the surface for adhesive (3M Hi-Tac 76), before lightly sanding the surface with 100 grit to provide some tooth to the adhesive.
For those with wagons you probably have noticed that the spare tire well is significantly more shallow toward the rear of the car... as such I had to make a 1x2x4.5 pedestal for the forward bottle bracket to ensure the proper angle for the siphon tube in the bottle.
And I have started wrapping some of the interior panels due to them becoming extremely chalky from UV exposure. I will say that if you were less inclined to vinyl wrap your parts, you could simply drag a razor blade 90* to the surface of the panel until you reached fresh/clean plastic. I did this to prep the surface for adhesive (3M Hi-Tac 76), before lightly sanding the surface with 100 grit to provide some tooth to the adhesive.
#66
Well I should have more to report, and actually have been making some steady progress on things like: re-installing the interior (big whoop), pulling the dash to repair cracks and recover, cleaning out the HVAC system (so very dirty - thanks to the State of Kansas), mocking up the Speed Hut gauges, pulling the steering column to install a cruise control/delay wiper column (wiring pending), and modifying the heater/A/C box for the coil pack clearance...
Oh and this new beater/parts car (350 SBC/TH350 combo w/a Flowmaster)... it'll get some wheels and maybe a 4 barrel carb swap. Have to make sure not to turn it into a project car - Natasha will have my head.
Seriously though we need it for the streamlined fascia (my personal preference), inner fenders and fender liners (the ones in the wagon are all cut up and broken), and some other odds and sods.
Oh and this new beater/parts car (350 SBC/TH350 combo w/a Flowmaster)... it'll get some wheels and maybe a 4 barrel carb swap. Have to make sure not to turn it into a project car - Natasha will have my head.
Seriously though we need it for the streamlined fascia (my personal preference), inner fenders and fender liners (the ones in the wagon are all cut up and broken), and some other odds and sods.
#68
Hey look! An actual wagon update!!!
The updates have been a little slow due to a variety of reasons, some of which have been documented here, but the main reason is the HVAC system redo. I had noticed during the chassis work just how dusty/dirty the inside of the dash was, which meant that the inside of the HVAC system was bad too. A good indicator of this was the socks/rags/paper towel shoved up in the vents which when removed a boat load of crap fell out. Since I have effectively Re & Re'd the entire HVAC system, modified the heater box for set-back engine mounts, scrubbed (and nearly vomited during) every inch of ABS duct work, and started putting it back together with foam-backed HVAC insulation (on the inside of the firewall and the duct work). There is also the issue of the rubber gasket that I had to glue in place with black RTV to get it to stay put, and replacing all of the factory foam with foam rubber. I managed to get the duct work to seal up with just a few pin holes; sure beats the sloppy factory fit and finish (or lack thereof).
And then it was on to retrofitting the electrical system because I want (demand?) cruise control and delay wipers - so my MCSS was cannibalized. The Monte Carlo is giving up its steering column, cruise control module, the fuse block (and underhood wiring - noting that I am doing a four headlight conversion), and some other stuff later on (wiper motor, master cylinder, etc).
So far I am deleting what isn't required inside the car (ECM, ALDL, VSS circuit, etc), and tracing back what either goes under the hood or to the Pontiac gauge cluster so the re-pinning can begin (because the Monte only has one gauge cluster input vs. two in the LeMans); and I still have to modified the donor car's harness - oh joy.
The funny thing is there is what looks like TPS sensor on the wagon's gas pedal mount... does anyone know what it is and what it did?
The updates have been a little slow due to a variety of reasons, some of which have been documented here, but the main reason is the HVAC system redo. I had noticed during the chassis work just how dusty/dirty the inside of the dash was, which meant that the inside of the HVAC system was bad too. A good indicator of this was the socks/rags/paper towel shoved up in the vents which when removed a boat load of crap fell out. Since I have effectively Re & Re'd the entire HVAC system, modified the heater box for set-back engine mounts, scrubbed (and nearly vomited during) every inch of ABS duct work, and started putting it back together with foam-backed HVAC insulation (on the inside of the firewall and the duct work). There is also the issue of the rubber gasket that I had to glue in place with black RTV to get it to stay put, and replacing all of the factory foam with foam rubber. I managed to get the duct work to seal up with just a few pin holes; sure beats the sloppy factory fit and finish (or lack thereof).
And then it was on to retrofitting the electrical system because I want (demand?) cruise control and delay wipers - so my MCSS was cannibalized. The Monte Carlo is giving up its steering column, cruise control module, the fuse block (and underhood wiring - noting that I am doing a four headlight conversion), and some other stuff later on (wiper motor, master cylinder, etc).
So far I am deleting what isn't required inside the car (ECM, ALDL, VSS circuit, etc), and tracing back what either goes under the hood or to the Pontiac gauge cluster so the re-pinning can begin (because the Monte only has one gauge cluster input vs. two in the LeMans); and I still have to modified the donor car's harness - oh joy.
The funny thing is there is what looks like TPS sensor on the wagon's gas pedal mount... does anyone know what it is and what it did?
#71
I have spent much of the weekend in the garage with my butane torch, alternative rock, wiring schematics from four different cars, some flux and solder, and a lot of electrical tape - building an interior harness that is as much 1980 LeMans (gauge cluster, HVAC, and under-dash lighting), as it is 1987 Monte Carlo (main harness, under-hood power/lights, and interior accessories), 1991 Camaro (map light rearview mirror and remote power mirrors (because my wife is 5'-5" and I am not)), and 2002 Camaro (the LS1 and BCM swap).
The only things I am still working on integrating are six Speed Hut gauges, the MSD window switch for the nitrous (and the circuits for arming, heater, purge and firing the system), and the remote starter. Too easy.
Pulled the trigger on some more parts.***sigh*** It never ends...
My shifter options for the 4L60E were a cobbled up 1970s Firebird 3 speed shifter or the stock shifter from our donor Camaro... yeah... umm... no. Or something shiny and new!
Oh, and I elected that I didn't want to live with a shitty 2.25" dual exhaust system (even with the complications of running electric cut outs) - so here comes 3" duals with an X-pipe and Violator (seriously) mufflers; the price couldn't be beat.
The only things I am still working on integrating are six Speed Hut gauges, the MSD window switch for the nitrous (and the circuits for arming, heater, purge and firing the system), and the remote starter. Too easy.
Pulled the trigger on some more parts.***sigh*** It never ends...
My shifter options for the 4L60E were a cobbled up 1970s Firebird 3 speed shifter or the stock shifter from our donor Camaro... yeah... umm... no. Or something shiny and new!
Oh, and I elected that I didn't want to live with a shitty 2.25" dual exhaust system (even with the complications of running electric cut outs) - so here comes 3" duals with an X-pipe and Violator (seriously) mufflers; the price couldn't be beat.
#74
Ran State-side yesterday morning to fetch my Summit orders. Everything seems to be in order except some sketchy build quality in one of the Pypes mufflers, which has incomplete welds inside it (this should qualify for an exchange based on their Limited Lifetime warranty...).
Another slightly disappointing thing with these Violator mufflers is that they aren't built as advertised.
Here they show very few louvers:
Yet when they come out of the box they look like this inside (not my picture... I hate instagram):
For those not in the know "chambered" mufflers like the Violators (http://www.classicchambered.com/classic/faq.html) flow very poorly compared to a perforated muffler like this (ie. Magnaflow):
But, I knew what I was getting myself into - I was just hoping for fewer louvers inside. Regardless this 3" exhaust will still flow as well as a 2.5" system with a perforated muffler; I have large-body Magnaflow perforated mufflers on body my Buick and TBSS and love them. I simply wanted a different/classic sound with the Violators and have run a chambered exhaust (3" single glasspack) in the past on my now long-dead '91 Z28 (305, ported heads/TPI intake, big roller cam, headers...).
Other than that the craftsmanship of the Pypes system is fair-to-good overall; but does not include quality clamps or the necessary hangers to install an MCSS exhaust on a car without the rear frame rail hangers - those you will have to source yourself. The good news is that I just still happen to have a pair in my MCSS. I don't know where else you are going to find a 3" stainless steel exhaust system with an X-pipe for $480 shipped?
Add in dual 3" cats and an X-pipe (and all the sound deadener), and this should prove to be very livable.
Another slightly disappointing thing with these Violator mufflers is that they aren't built as advertised.
Here they show very few louvers:
Yet when they come out of the box they look like this inside (not my picture... I hate instagram):
For those not in the know "chambered" mufflers like the Violators (http://www.classicchambered.com/classic/faq.html) flow very poorly compared to a perforated muffler like this (ie. Magnaflow):
But, I knew what I was getting myself into - I was just hoping for fewer louvers inside. Regardless this 3" exhaust will still flow as well as a 2.5" system with a perforated muffler; I have large-body Magnaflow perforated mufflers on body my Buick and TBSS and love them. I simply wanted a different/classic sound with the Violators and have run a chambered exhaust (3" single glasspack) in the past on my now long-dead '91 Z28 (305, ported heads/TPI intake, big roller cam, headers...).
Other than that the craftsmanship of the Pypes system is fair-to-good overall; but does not include quality clamps or the necessary hangers to install an MCSS exhaust on a car without the rear frame rail hangers - those you will have to source yourself. The good news is that I just still happen to have a pair in my MCSS. I don't know where else you are going to find a 3" stainless steel exhaust system with an X-pipe for $480 shipped?
Add in dual 3" cats and an X-pipe (and all the sound deadener), and this should prove to be very livable.
#76
Had a pretty busy weekend doing wiring... yeah, not exciting. But, the payoff should be worth it.
I moved the main harness off the bench and into the car. From there I had a great time running the wires and laying them out in their correct locations. One of the challenges I faced was what to do with all the extra wire I added to the harness; about a 30% increase in wiring from the stock '80 harness. The work around, and one of my side goals was wire management, in this case it was how not to reattach any wires to the dash itself. You can see in the photos the nylon clamps used to tie everything to the firewall, HVAC box or other accessories.
The nitrous is all wired in inside the cabin (switches (the panel shown is temporary) and the window switch), the under hood hook-ups are pending things like an engine. The remote starter is in, just need an engine to take advantage of it (see a theme developing here?); as well, the car is now fitted for remote power mirrors.
The wiring for the gauges is in but not connected to anything (pesky lack of an engine again), as is a junction box for some of the LS1 ECM wiring that needs an interface inside the cabin.
Hopefully I will have the column cleaned up and back in this week, and tear down and clean up the under hood harnesses. After that I'll be repairing and recovering the dash.
I moved the main harness off the bench and into the car. From there I had a great time running the wires and laying them out in their correct locations. One of the challenges I faced was what to do with all the extra wire I added to the harness; about a 30% increase in wiring from the stock '80 harness. The work around, and one of my side goals was wire management, in this case it was how not to reattach any wires to the dash itself. You can see in the photos the nylon clamps used to tie everything to the firewall, HVAC box or other accessories.
The nitrous is all wired in inside the cabin (switches (the panel shown is temporary) and the window switch), the under hood hook-ups are pending things like an engine. The remote starter is in, just need an engine to take advantage of it (see a theme developing here?); as well, the car is now fitted for remote power mirrors.
The wiring for the gauges is in but not connected to anything (pesky lack of an engine again), as is a junction box for some of the LS1 ECM wiring that needs an interface inside the cabin.
Hopefully I will have the column cleaned up and back in this week, and tear down and clean up the under hood harnesses. After that I'll be repairing and recovering the dash.
#77
Looking at buying a Strange S60 for this thing - I was originally going to steal the 8.5" out of my Buick (which is again for sale) and try living with the 3.08s with an OD trans which may or may not work with the cam at low RPMs while cruising (plus it has the LS1 brakes already installed). The other option was to take the 8.5" out of the Monte and fit it with LS1 brakes and 3.73s in place of the 4.56s currently in there - but, that just sounds like a lot of work and money sunk into a used rearend of questionable condition. Or as mentioned: get an all new S60 with 35 spline axles, relocation brackets, new guts, and the brakes already set up ready to go - ready to handle 700+hp. Might even narrow it .5-1.0" per side to improve my wheel selection options...
http://www.strangeengineering.net/hi...ng-mounts.html
Total damage less shipping is $2000 (half of what I paid for the car).
Here is an article I used to weigh my options:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...e/viewall.html
Any thoughts on this?
http://www.strangeengineering.net/hi...ng-mounts.html
Total damage less shipping is $2000 (half of what I paid for the car).
Here is an article I used to weigh my options:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...e/viewall.html
Any thoughts on this?
#80
In other news: we have POWA!
I went through and managed to test nearly every system in the car:
Interior
- Gauges (back lighting and main power);
- Dash accessory lighting (turn signals, hi-beam, seat belt etc.; still pending cruise control and SES);
- HVAC (all speeds of blower motor (A/C compressor engagement pending);
- Radio (Amps and speakers (F+R) - hit pretty hard on normal settings and the gains not turned up);
- Accessory lighting (under dash LEDs, lighted rearview mirror, dome light; LED third brake light still pending fabrication);
- Power door mirrors (currently fitted for and not equipped - but they work); and
- Nitrous (main power, purge, MSD window switch, and bottle heater).
Exterior
- Starter (purple wire (remote car starter pending);
- Underhood light (orange wire... need the mercury switch/light assembly);
- Delay wipers (working, pisser pump too);
- Headlights, turn signals and running/parking lamps;
- Brake lights;
- Reverse lights (pending validation);
- Shifter (neutral safety switch - pending requirement if the mechanical lock in the column doesn't work with the remote car starter); and
- Fuel pump (power and signal still pending - might build a hotwire to bump up the Walbro 340).
I went through and managed to test nearly every system in the car:
Interior
- Gauges (back lighting and main power);
- Dash accessory lighting (turn signals, hi-beam, seat belt etc.; still pending cruise control and SES);
- HVAC (all speeds of blower motor (A/C compressor engagement pending);
- Radio (Amps and speakers (F+R) - hit pretty hard on normal settings and the gains not turned up);
- Accessory lighting (under dash LEDs, lighted rearview mirror, dome light; LED third brake light still pending fabrication);
- Power door mirrors (currently fitted for and not equipped - but they work); and
- Nitrous (main power, purge, MSD window switch, and bottle heater).
Exterior
- Starter (purple wire (remote car starter pending);
- Underhood light (orange wire... need the mercury switch/light assembly);
- Delay wipers (working, pisser pump too);
- Headlights, turn signals and running/parking lamps;
- Brake lights;
- Reverse lights (pending validation);
- Shifter (neutral safety switch - pending requirement if the mechanical lock in the column doesn't work with the remote car starter); and
- Fuel pump (power and signal still pending - might build a hotwire to bump up the Walbro 340).