1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon
11-22-2014, 08:35 PM
#101
The quotes on the S60s are coming in... it is very tempting to go this route.
I also pulled off the majority of the front suspension today for modification, and to start chopping up the K-member/engine cradle to fit the LS motor.
And... from talking to Natasha we may just end up boosting a stockish LS motor vice building a more "rowdy" LS1. Uh-oh.
I also pulled off the majority of the front suspension today for modification, and to start chopping up the K-member/engine cradle to fit the LS motor.
And... from talking to Natasha we may just end up boosting a stockish LS motor vice building a more "rowdy" LS1. Uh-oh.
12-23-2014, 10:02 PM
#103
Well the S60 was ordered with 3.73s and LS1 housing ends (for LS1 brakes) in a stock width - we got an amazing deal. So the 8.5" and 7.625" are up for sale.
In other news we are LS-ready! 10" x 2" oil pan notch is done with two 1" x 1" x 1/8" square tubes stacked; and the A/C compressor notch is about 1.5" deep into the pocket, you can see how much the PS motor mount is modified compared to the DS unit.
In other news we are LS-ready! 10" x 2" oil pan notch is done with two 1" x 1" x 1/8" square tubes stacked; and the A/C compressor notch is about 1.5" deep into the pocket, you can see how much the PS motor mount is modified compared to the DS unit.
Last edited by mOtOrHeAd MiKe; 12-24-2014 at 10:50 AM.
12-25-2014, 10:39 AM
#105
This is an idea that I have been kicking around for a few years for a couple of reasons:
1. Not everyone wants to pull the body to box the frame (I have the means, just not the interest for this car) or add a rollbar/cage;
2. Improved chassis stiffness between the C-channel sections of the perimeter frame (linking the front and rear sub-frames);
3. Ease of installation (not drilling a single hole in the stock frame) and removal (if the body mounts ever need to be serviced);
4. Improved jacking points (ever seen a collapsed transmission cross member mount because a dumb monkey didn't look where he put the jack?);
5. Enhance the ladder frame design combined with the G-Force trans cross member and the other tweaks/cross bars I have already added to this build.
The tubing is 1 x 2 x 1/8" square, 1" x 1/8" round, and 1/8" plate. The goal is to put a little pre-load into the frame/SFCs when bolted in.
Any who these will probably be the first ever bolt-in sub-frame connectors (SFCs) built for a G-body.
1. Not everyone wants to pull the body to box the frame (I have the means, just not the interest for this car) or add a rollbar/cage;
2. Improved chassis stiffness between the C-channel sections of the perimeter frame (linking the front and rear sub-frames);
3. Ease of installation (not drilling a single hole in the stock frame) and removal (if the body mounts ever need to be serviced);
4. Improved jacking points (ever seen a collapsed transmission cross member mount because a dumb monkey didn't look where he put the jack?);
5. Enhance the ladder frame design combined with the G-Force trans cross member and the other tweaks/cross bars I have already added to this build.
The tubing is 1 x 2 x 1/8" square, 1" x 1/8" round, and 1/8" plate. The goal is to put a little pre-load into the frame/SFCs when bolted in.
Any who these will probably be the first ever bolt-in sub-frame connectors (SFCs) built for a G-body.
12-27-2014, 10:24 AM
#107
I haven't disclosed too much about the engine yet because I am still weighing my options - and I don't want to write it up twice.
01-18-2015, 08:22 PM
#112
The S60 has arrived! And luckily I sold off all of my extra rearends to (help) offset the cost of entry...
This thing is an amazing piece of of artwork - shame I am going to paint it. The 175lb/in coil-over springs sit on the perches perfectly, and is going to work great with the adjustable perches from what I can tell. It also comes with multiple shock mounting points as well (I didn't know that when ordering) and is fitted for LS1 brakes.
That is a stock 8.5" axle next to the Strange 35 spline bad-boy.
Sexy!
This thing is an amazing piece of of artwork - shame I am going to paint it. The 175lb/in coil-over springs sit on the perches perfectly, and is going to work great with the adjustable perches from what I can tell. It also comes with multiple shock mounting points as well (I didn't know that when ordering) and is fitted for LS1 brakes.
That is a stock 8.5" axle next to the Strange 35 spline bad-boy.
Sexy!
04-23-2015, 03:55 PM
#113
Well since everybody was out of the house I snuck outside and started to do a little confirmatory mockup with the S60 rearend and Hellwig swaybar. My first concern was if the supplied u-bolts would fit over the 3" axle tubes - check! Next was how would the bar work with the significantly larger pumpkin - sort of does... As you can see in the pictures it is absolutely fine when level and when drooping - but quickly becomes and issue under compression. The quick fix seems to be to rotate the axle tube mounts to the rear which opens up a lot of room for compression travel. The other option will be to make some spacers/shims to lower the axle tube mounts (Spohn does this for S60 equipped 4th Gen F-bodies). Chances are it will be a combination of both. That and a piece of heater hose on the swaybar for when it does contact... LOL!
05-18-2015, 07:57 PM
#115
Actual progress! I am trying to make the wagon a roller again... hopefully before it has been here for two full years!
The spindles have been modified, stress relieved and deburred, rust converted, and polished... justawaitin' on paint. Yes, I know I started on these at the beginning of January.
The spindles have been modified, stress relieved and deburred, rust converted, and polished... justawaitin' on paint. Yes, I know I started on these at the beginning of January.
05-31-2015, 08:06 PM
#116
I was a busy boy this weekend. Finally got the control arms, spindles, and differential POR-15'd. The gloss black looks really nice (right now). The front of the rusty brake booster got the same treatment. The front sub-frame got scraped, scrubbed, degreased, and painted with Tremclad gloss because this part of the chassis takes the biggest beating and needs to be touched up easily... I think I even painted over some dirt. LOL.
But, I am getting closer to making it a roller again.
PS. I have a little POR-15 in my hair.
But, I am getting closer to making it a roller again.
PS. I have a little POR-15 in my hair.
06-02-2015, 04:21 PM
#118
Thanks! I am trying to decide between putting a silver pontiac arrowhead crest sticker off ebay, or pinstriping it myself, on the diff cover to finish it off visually. Oh and ignore the untouched upper control arms - I am shopping for some lightly used Global West arms (or some decent roundy-round tubular arms from Speedway or the like).
I forgot to mention that I rolled the pinch weld in the trans tunnel - with a 12lb sledge - to make some more room for the tranny and the tools to install it.
I forgot to mention that I rolled the pinch weld in the trans tunnel - with a 12lb sledge - to make some more room for the tranny and the tools to install it.
06-22-2015, 08:26 PM
#119
Well here is an update: brakes and stuff.
Started fitting the new LS1 brakes to the car, not a complete bolt-on - but very little work was required to get it all on. The biggest issue was opening up the wheel stud (1/2" studs) and centre bore holes in the mock-up rotor. The whole thing came apart about 5 times trying to get the caliper bracket centred. I settled with a .078' outside to .090" inside offset, using a .053" shim (I had a .066" shim as well) between the adapter bracket and spindle mount. The adapter bracket was torqued down to 70ft/lbs using #271 red Loctite. I do imagine the rotor will get drawn in a bit more when the wheel is mounted and torqued down. I have to pull the pads and rotors off of the donor Camaro for the final install. But it is a start.
I also went through a huge ordeal trying to get my hands on quality steel caged wheel bearings (A34 outer, A6 inner); note to self Timken uses plastic cages in their Set/A 34 outers. Booo. At least Timken's seals went in nicely. The dust caps came from Dorman.
You can also see the Hellwig bar, UMI tie rod adjusters, XH steering box, shocks and springs are all in. None of which is torqued to spec yet.
The most annoying thing happened tonight when I was trying to install the master cylinder I stole from my MCSS; I learned that not all dual diaphragm brake booster are alike. No, in fact the early ones (like my wagon) have a 1.5" bore, and the later ones (like my MCSS) have a 1.75" bore. So now I may have to re&re the dash in the wagon to switch out the booster. FML.
Oh I cleaned and painted the brake lines too.
Started fitting the new LS1 brakes to the car, not a complete bolt-on - but very little work was required to get it all on. The biggest issue was opening up the wheel stud (1/2" studs) and centre bore holes in the mock-up rotor. The whole thing came apart about 5 times trying to get the caliper bracket centred. I settled with a .078' outside to .090" inside offset, using a .053" shim (I had a .066" shim as well) between the adapter bracket and spindle mount. The adapter bracket was torqued down to 70ft/lbs using #271 red Loctite. I do imagine the rotor will get drawn in a bit more when the wheel is mounted and torqued down. I have to pull the pads and rotors off of the donor Camaro for the final install. But it is a start.
I also went through a huge ordeal trying to get my hands on quality steel caged wheel bearings (A34 outer, A6 inner); note to self Timken uses plastic cages in their Set/A 34 outers. Booo. At least Timken's seals went in nicely. The dust caps came from Dorman.
You can also see the Hellwig bar, UMI tie rod adjusters, XH steering box, shocks and springs are all in. None of which is torqued to spec yet.
The most annoying thing happened tonight when I was trying to install the master cylinder I stole from my MCSS; I learned that not all dual diaphragm brake booster are alike. No, in fact the early ones (like my wagon) have a 1.5" bore, and the later ones (like my MCSS) have a 1.75" bore. So now I may have to re&re the dash in the wagon to switch out the booster. FML.
Oh I cleaned and painted the brake lines too.
