fxdlryan

The support brace was custom fabricated. The one that came with the Schwartz chassis did not fit with the LS motor.

fxdlryan

What is that tire sizes?
model, offset and size of wheels?
What spring weight did you use in the front?[/QUOTE]

The wheels are polished E-T Classic V's
18X9 with 255/40/18 to be swapped with 275/35/18 - I can't remember the exact backspace, but I had to add 1/2" spacer.
18 X 12 with 335/30/18 on Rear - don't remember the backspace on this one either.
RideTech 3 way adjustable coilovers with 475 pound springs in the front adn 300 pound springs in the back.

Tramminc

the back spacing is the important part

fxdlryan

I have it written down somewhere, but the backspacing would only be good for a first generation Schwartz Performance Chassis with the full floater rear end and I'm guessing there aren't a lot of those around. Same thing with the front, it's completely different from a stock suspension/chassis. If you're curious about backspacing for wheels on a Chevelle chassis, check out these two links from Team Chevelle:
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33229
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126665

fxdlryan

I'm finally making a little progress, the dry sump tank is all plumbed up:

The II Much Fabrication vents are in for the fuel tank and differential. The dry sump Breather/Overflow is in the trunk. Emptying it will be a bit of a pain, but I wanted it out of the passenger compartment:

The oil cooler, remote oil filter with primer and all of the plumbing is in the engine bay. The hood pin bracket will obscure most of this, so it won't be quite as obvious:

Plumbing to the pump:

It seems like it's always 2 steps forward and 1 step back and the dry sump plumbing is no different. My -16AN lines are resting on the header, so now I need to pull the headers and put some header wrap on them and a fire sleeve on the lines so they don't cook.

I had to make a decision between tapping the tank and running another -10AN line back to the tank to feed the priming remote oil filter or tap into the -16AN main line close to the pump. I don't think that little priming pump will pull well from that distance with only -10 so I ended up coming off of the dry sump pump with a 90 female to female. That 90 feeds into a -16AN T fitting, one back to the tank and the T other got a -16 to -10AN reducer. The reducer feeds a -10AN Peterson ball valve and that then gets connected to the remote filter. The thought here is that I can use the -16 Main feed from the tank without having to run another line. The ball valve allows me to open it only when I'm priming the engine and then close it so that I'm certain the pump isn't trying to pull oil out of the same location I'm trying to push it to. I[m not 100% happy with the whole setup, but it's the best I could figure out.

fxdlryan

I got the headers pulled, wrapped and back in. I used DEI Platinum header wrap and their stainless steel locking ties, the locking ties did little more that cut me up and not hold very well, I ended up using stainless hose clamps instead:

My last Earl's fitting was defective, so another one is ordered and once it comes in, the lines will go back in for a final time. The bad thing about the bad fitting is that it buggered my line and wasted about 9 feet of ProLite 350 hose. The hoses are cut to exact length and trimming a couple of inches to get a fresh section of hose would make it too short. Luckily I overbought hose and I'm ready to go when the next fitting comes in:

fxdlryan

All of the plumbing is complete for the dry sump, I wrapped the headers and used fire sleeve, both lines pass almost touching the headers but I honestly don't see any other way to run the lines:




The power steering remote reservoir and cooler are in:





I decided to run 6AN line for the radiator overflow as well, those are due in tomorrow.