Advice on an SN95 swap
05-15-2014, 06:47 AM
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Advice on an SN95 swap Was always a Ford guy coming up, never got into the Chevys but a few buddies own Chevys and I love the sound of a cammed LS and once the go pedal is floored the sound is intoxicating. So been searching through here like crazy trying to take in as much knowledge as possible and trying to get my ducks in a row to take on the swap. So I picked up a clean 98 mustang for a grand and ripped out the motor and trans that night. The car is extremely clean and got it for a steal. So now comes the fun part of collecting parts for the swap. Really don't have my heart set on any particular motor to start with, still want to do a little more searching but for the most part this is going to be a "budget" build and used as a daily so I'm thinking 5.3 or 6.0 iron block since they seem to be a plenty and pretty stout. I'm sinking to much money into my 11 GT to have two projects but the '11 is on hold and I'm getting antsy and want something to work on and have a fun, maybe not so different anymore, daily driver. So through all this extra babble the stuff I'm most concerned with that I'd like advice on is mostly wiring (ie what did you do, get a stand alone harness for the motor then use the stock body harness for lights gauges and such. and did you need to keep the stock computer powered up as well. also this car will have to go through md emissions so whats involved in getting the obd port functioning to get me through). My other concern is gauges (fuel, speed, tach) I've read of a few different directions to go here, hard to distiguish which method was easiest but any input I can get would be greatly appreciated. Wiring is my weak point, I've never been comfortable doing it and for some reason just can't wrap my head around it. Sorry for the long winded first post, but being my first GM and first cross breed swap just looking for advice and do's and don'ts. Thanks in advance fellas.
Last edited by 1slo5ohh; 05-15-2014 at 08:27 AM.
05-15-2014, 08:29 AM
#2
The way the mustangs are configured makes a swap rather simple, the body harness runs along the drivers side, engine harness runs along the passenger side, along with the obd2 port wiring..
dont bother trying to use the mustang gauges, they are dummy lights, get some decent aftermarkets, and save yourself the hassle and money of trying to get the stockers to work, i wouldnt trust my motor to the stockford or gm gauges.
this is where my gf and i are currently with her car....it looks like a nightmare, but it really isnt...
dont bother trying to use the mustang gauges, they are dummy lights, get some decent aftermarkets, and save yourself the hassle and money of trying to get the stockers to work, i wouldnt trust my motor to the stockford or gm gauges.
this is where my gf and i are currently with her car....it looks like a nightmare, but it really isnt...
05-15-2014, 09:37 AM
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I read through your build, its cool that your girl is involved. My fiancee loves getting out there and turning wrenches so it should be a fun project for the two of us. I've seen alot of people using the Holley set up and their gauges, apparently it makes things a breeze. Are you going to rewire the whole car or are you just going to leave the body harness in place? There's no need for the factory computer correct? Are you going to stick with the factory tank, and just run aftermarket in-tank bumps with the stock sending unit or are you guys going with an inline pump? Sorry for the somewhat general questions, I'm sure once I really start digging into it, it will be more clear. Thanks for the response, I'll continue to follow your guys build so I know what to look for on mine.
05-15-2014, 10:41 AM
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I read through your build, its cool that your girl is involved. My fiancee loves getting out there and turning wrenches so it should be a fun project for the two of us. I've seen alot of people using the Holley set up and their gauges, apparently it makes things a breeze. Are you going to rewire the whole car or are you just going to leave the body harness in place? There's no need for the factory computer correct? Are you going to stick with the factory tank, and just run aftermarket in-tank bumps with the stock sending unit or are you guys going with an inline pump? Sorry for the somewhat general questions, I'm sure once I really start digging into it, it will be more clear. Thanks for the response, I'll continue to follow your guys build so I know what to look for on mine.
ill be running stock tank, that will be sumped with an inline pump.
05-15-2014, 01:44 PM
#5
Sounds like you have a plan, my advice to you after rebuilding my budget 5.3 would be to buy a complete package, engine, transmission, ecu, wiring, etc. all together, otherwise you will get nickeled and dimed. Spend a few more bucks and get a nice running motor because if you so much as crack the valve cover, the budget starts to go up in smoke. If it were me, I would buy a 4.8/5.3 w/ 4L60/5e and a single turbo, but that's me.
You may need to run a car intake due to hood clearance, in that case try to find the matching fuel rails, injectors, and you'll need different injector pigtails, but that's just some of the advice I could give you, I say just go figure it out, but do your homework, and stick to your plan.
You may need to run a car intake due to hood clearance, in that case try to find the matching fuel rails, injectors, and you'll need different injector pigtails, but that's just some of the advice I could give you, I say just go figure it out, but do your homework, and stick to your plan.
05-15-2014, 02:13 PM
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Speedhut has some nice gauges. That's what I planned on doing, did it with my fox and it worked out well. Thanks for the input.
05-15-2014, 02:21 PM
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Sounds like you have a plan, my advice to you after rebuilding my budget 5.3 would be to buy a complete package, engine, transmission, ecu, wiring, etc. all together, otherwise you will get nickeled and dimed. Spend a few more bucks and get a nice running motor because if you so much as crack the valve cover, the budget starts to go up in smoke. If it were me, I would buy a 4.8/5.3 w/ 4L60/5e and a single turbo, but that's me.
You may need to run a car intake due to hood clearance, in that case try to find the matching fuel rails, injectors, and you'll need different injector pigtails, but that's just some of the advice I could give you, I say just go figure it out, but do your homework, and stick to your plan.
You may need to run a car intake due to hood clearance, in that case try to find the matching fuel rails, injectors, and you'll need different injector pigtails, but that's just some of the advice I could give you, I say just go figure it out, but do your homework, and stick to your plan.
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05-16-2014, 06:28 AM
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Whelp plans changed that quick. Unloaded the 98 and actually made a few bucks. Tomorrow morning I leave bright and early for a 9 hr drive to pick up a 95 GT roller that is cleaner then the 98, has weld rts, built rear to take anything from hell and back, already has a upr k member arms and coil overs, plates and welded torque boxes and full length sub frame connectors, etc etc etc. the cars perfect and basically just need the motor and trans. Best part is I'm getting it for only 500 more then I paid for the 6 cyl! And since I actually made some money on that car I'm almost breaking even! I'm pumped!
