98 Silver SS

iTrader: (1)

I'm ready to start banging my head against the wall. Everything has been checked and double checked, but the car will not start. There's 12 volts to the computer with key on and cranking, there's fuel pressure, there's spark, double checked every ground... The engine was pulled from a wrecked but running/driving car with 7,000 original miles about a month ago, so I don't think there's anything wrong with the fuel injectors. The injectors have 12 volts coming to them with the key on, but nothing while cranking. If we spray gas into the throttle body while cranking it pops right off. At this point, does it sound likely that the tuner forgot to disable the VATS? I don't have HP Tuners or know of anyone who does within any reasonable distance.

33willys

iTrader: (1)

If you have checked fuel pressure, spark etc and it will run by squirting fuel into the TB then I would say it is injectors. First, get a 'noid light to make sure the injectors are firing. From what you said, during cranking there is no power to the injectors which means (to me) that there is a wiring problem there. During cranking lots of the things that run of the ignition "run" position are cut out and come back on when the switch is released from the start position. If it were VATS not disabled you will still start but die quickly. Check to make sure you have power to the injectors during the "start" sequence.

98 Silver SS

iTrader: (1)

There is no power to the injectors during the start sequence. The engine ran and drove great in the donor vehicle just recently, so I'm pretty positive the the injectors aren't the problem.

jeremytap

The ECU doesn't controll power to the injectors, it only switches the ground on and off. If there isn't power during cranking then there is a problem with your wiring. All 8 pink wires from the injectors should go to a good 12v source.

alowerlevel

iTrader: (1)

Even with vats still enabled the car should still fire and run for a second or 2 then shut off. I would have to agree with the above posts and re-check the injector wiring

98 Silver SS

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. Someone suggested the VATS as a possibility, just wanted to rule it out.

jkr266

Your ignition switch will have multiple leads that are hot on run, but only one probably that stays hot when cranking, make sure all your pink wires are tied to it.

E.rodz

iTrader: (4)

i think JKR is right it sounds to me like you have a ign wire hooked up to a dead while cranking i did the same thing with my Belair while trying to fire it up for the first time.hooked it up to the power while cranking wire and problem solved. but that does not make sence to have it pop off with gas being sqirted in while cranking????? that does not make any sence at all if that is the case. please let us know what you find even if it is stupid.

98 Silver SS

iTrader: (1)

Oddly enough it ended up being the fuel pump wiring. Ended up using the Aeromotive A1000 from the car's former life, wired exactly as it had always been (through a toggle switch). Being a 66 Olds 442, we needed to add a relay to maintain 12 volts to the computer when cranking, which we had verified with the fuel pump off. When the pump was turned on, it somehow was cutting voltage to the computer. Added another relay (with battery power instead of from the fuse box) for the fuel pump and it fired right up. In hindsight, I probably should have rewired the entire car, but the existing original wiring was all intact and in good shape.