Power Steering Pump ?
08-28-2015, 11:19 AM
#1
Power Steering Pump ? Ok..so.I spun the PS Pulley off of the hub on my Power Steering. In doing so, it also cracked the Pumps Reservoir.
Anyway.. getting a replacement pump with reservoir since a reservoir alone way too costly. I can get one with reservoir ...
Anyway. Since I am working with it now. I thought I'd address the pressure issue now. Have always had a light feel with little effort. I want to reduce the pressure which should increase steering effort. I've researched it and it comes down to using a variable valve or change the springs/shims in the Relief Valve.
I was going to shim the spring/valves to increase the spring pressure, which is suppose to reduce the pressure to the box. I also found that I could also use the inner of the valve from the car that the box being used (71 Chevelle) in the LS1 pump.
I compared the length of the plunger and see that there is some difference, longer. This way I know the valve is correct for the box. Should be a simple solution.. Right ?
Question, should I also use the larger spring and has anyone done this. I take it should work... but would like a little feed back.
Thanks.
BC
Anyway.. getting a replacement pump with reservoir since a reservoir alone way too costly. I can get one with reservoir ...
Anyway. Since I am working with it now. I thought I'd address the pressure issue now. Have always had a light feel with little effort. I want to reduce the pressure which should increase steering effort. I've researched it and it comes down to using a variable valve or change the springs/shims in the Relief Valve.
I was going to shim the spring/valves to increase the spring pressure, which is suppose to reduce the pressure to the box. I also found that I could also use the inner of the valve from the car that the box being used (71 Chevelle) in the LS1 pump.
I compared the length of the plunger and see that there is some difference, longer. This way I know the valve is correct for the box. Should be a simple solution.. Right ?
Question, should I also use the larger spring and has anyone done this. I take it should work... but would like a little feed back.
Thanks.
BC
08-28-2015, 11:39 AM
#2
TECH Addict
I can't help you with the pump internals, but another option is to underdrive the pump by either putting a larger pulley on the pump, or a smaller pulley on the crank, or both of these combined.
08-28-2015, 12:04 PM
#3
IIRC.. the only other pulley that we had found or posted here was one from a Ford E series van.. Since it is mostly a stock engine. Why mess with the pulley dynamic and its effects of the alternator, crank and pump pulley being under driven if not necessary, but that is just my opinion.
08-28-2015, 02:23 PM
#4
TECH Addict
To be honest, I'm not really a big fan of underdrive pulleys, but there are kits specifically for the '99 LS1.
I thought that maybe using a proven kit would possibly be a viable alternative to using the internals from a 1971 chevelle PS pump inside of the pump designed for 1999 camaro PS pump internals in some questionable Frankenstein configuration.
I thought that maybe using a proven kit would possibly be a viable alternative to using the internals from a 1971 chevelle PS pump inside of the pump designed for 1999 camaro PS pump internals in some questionable Frankenstein configuration.
08-28-2015, 09:58 PM
#7
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: KS
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't have any advise on changing internals, but I was curious if you had done the Grand Cherokee Steering Box swap yet. I am assuming you have and are just still not satisfied, but if not then y not start there since it is a direct swap and what you described is exactly what it addresses?
Trending Topics
08-28-2015, 10:53 PM
#8
No. just using a quick ratio stock box. I had problems before with lock up, which I resolved by using a 4th Gen power steering cooler. But I would still like to reduce pressure to increase road feel. Once other thing that is different is that I have done the Tall B-Body spindles which has changed my steering dynamics and rations.. one effect that I found is that the turn is slower to start and a loss of turning radius. Maybe a change in idler arm length might improve it ?? But for now, just working to reduce the pressure to increase road / steering feel.
I picked up a ATSCO reman pump with reservoir and took the original LS1 pump, the new Reman pump and 71 Chevelle valves out.
The LS1's valve measured 1.351 and the Reman and 71 pump measured 1.423.
I left the Reman 1.423 plunger in since it was the same as the 71 pump and longer. Got it mounted up tonight but didn't have time to jack it up and flush / bleed the system. Will get that done tomorrow night (I hope), as I have a short cruise with some of the local guys for lunch Sunday, but if not.. I'll just drive the Nova
Once I get is all back on the road.. well know if the shorter valve/plunger makes a different.
BC
I picked up a ATSCO reman pump with reservoir and took the original LS1 pump, the new Reman pump and 71 Chevelle valves out.
The LS1's valve measured 1.351 and the Reman and 71 pump measured 1.423.
I left the Reman 1.423 plunger in since it was the same as the 71 pump and longer. Got it mounted up tonight but didn't have time to jack it up and flush / bleed the system. Will get that done tomorrow night (I hope), as I have a short cruise with some of the local guys for lunch Sunday, but if not.. I'll just drive the Nova
Once I get is all back on the road.. well know if the shorter valve/plunger makes a different.
BC
Last edited by bczee; 08-28-2015 at 11:24 PM. Reason: corrected the measured lenght of the valve
08-29-2015, 03:10 PM
#9
TECH Resident
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have you looked into this article?
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...ower-steering/
Looks like borgeson has a shim kit so you can taylor your pump pressure to your liking.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...ower-steering/
Looks like borgeson has a shim kit so you can taylor your pump pressure to your liking.
08-30-2015, 11:46 AM
#10
Yes, I've read that article a while back. It is basically doing what I am doing. using the longer valve and knew to use the other valve.
If I took the LS1 valve (1.351) and shimmed it with the kit.. I'd end up with a longer valve.. like the Reman//71 pumps valve (1.423), that would be an increase of 0.072 in length.
Got the system flushed and bleed (will check again) last night, but it was too late for a test drive and too many cars in the drive way to move.. so.. about to test now..
Thanks..
BC
If I took the LS1 valve (1.351) and shimmed it with the kit.. I'd end up with a longer valve.. like the Reman//71 pumps valve (1.423), that would be an increase of 0.072 in length.
Got the system flushed and bleed (will check again) last night, but it was too late for a test drive and too many cars in the drive way to move.. so.. about to test now..
Thanks..
BC
Last edited by bczee; 08-30-2015 at 11:55 AM.
09-01-2015, 11:50 AM
#13
I am interested to hear your results. I've been working through this on my build and in talking with Turn-one, it is actually the flow (gpm) that affects steering effort. Too much flow and the pressure will be higher and steering effort lower. The higher flow will result in higher line pressure but it should not be adjusted by changing the relief pressure (poor band-aid fix), but rather by changing the flow of the pump or switching to the correct flow pump. This might be what you are accomplishing with changing the plunger I am not sure.
09-01-2015, 02:21 PM
#15
update Back on the road Sunday.
All seems ok. I do feel a little more steering effort now. Which is one goal completed.
I need to drive around more to get a better feel for any changes. I think i here a few whinning of the pump a few times.
Well update in a week.
BC
All seems ok. I do feel a little more steering effort now. Which is one goal completed.
I need to drive around more to get a better feel for any changes. I think i here a few whinning of the pump a few times.
Well update in a week.
BC
09-02-2015, 09:11 AM
#18
I am already running a 4th Gen F-Body PS Cooler.
I would think that the Heidits valve would create more problems fighting with flow/pressure being down stream from the pump. Fight between the pressure being outputted from the pump valve and being restricted by the Heidits valve. ??
BC
I would think that the Heidits valve would create more problems fighting with flow/pressure being down stream from the pump. Fight between the pressure being outputted from the pump valve and being restricted by the Heidits valve. ??
BC
09-03-2015, 05:54 AM
#19
TECH Fanatic
I used the OE valve from an early pump in my S10 pump. I also added about .040" worth of shims. Still a little lighter than I was looking to see, even more so after I got the alignment all figured out.
09-06-2015, 01:27 AM
#20
I put the JGC box in my Nova.
Took it out of the Jeep myself.
I have C5 pump and accessories on my L33.
The car steered way to easy.
So talked with turn one and bought their flow control valve.
He said run it as is and maybe drill the hole if needed.
It worked pretty well. But I'd hardly call it a high effort box.
Maybe for a Jeep with big tires.
Also, while I love the fast ratio for normal driving, it's too fast for a low nine second car.
Would be ok if the effort were higher.
Anyway, the flow control works.
Took it out of the Jeep myself.
I have C5 pump and accessories on my L33.
The car steered way to easy.
So talked with turn one and bought their flow control valve.
He said run it as is and maybe drill the hole if needed.
It worked pretty well. But I'd hardly call it a high effort box.
Maybe for a Jeep with big tires.
Also, while I love the fast ratio for normal driving, it's too fast for a low nine second car.
Would be ok if the effort were higher.
Anyway, the flow control works.