Sluggish

iTrader: (10)

I haven't messed with my bracket car in a long time. And recently my camaro became the quicker of the 2. So I'm going to yank the barely over stock 350 and add a LS1 or LS2. This car is gutted, a lot. It only weights 2560 without me and thats with an all iron motor, no fiberglass and all the glass. I'm thinking a nice cam only set up with a Victor Jr. intake, Holley 850dp, and just some open headers should be good for mid to high 10s.

My list of questions are...

1. Do I need an adapter plate for my th350?

2. Are there bolt-in motor mounts?

3. Would I be able to run just a water pump and alternator?

4. Would the control that comes with the Victor Jr. be all I need to control the electronics?

5. Where can I get headers that will fit?

6. How much wiring is involved for just running the motor? (I hate wiring, my buddy did all the wiring that is in the car now)


Thats all I can think of right now. I'm going to buy some better suspension for the car and will be using a 9" from my friends wrecked regal. I'm not really wanting to spend more than $2500, maybe 3k. Thanks for any info, beside try a search because that bitch sucks.

cherryelky305

iTrader: (2)

John B makes mounts and oil pans for use in G-body's. He also did a monte carlo himself and took it to the track. If he chimes in he would have great advice.

deeloc1

iTrader: (20)

Question 1...th350 will bolt right up to lsx motor...however, you will need a 6.0L Lq4/9 flexplate that comes with the spacer needed for a TH350/400 converter to be able to run the trans. Your second option would be using the stock Lsx flexplate and buying a converter from yank or other companies that is made for the lsx th350/400 swap. I think the cheaper route for you would be the first option mentioned...because if your car already set-up for bracket racing you should have a nice stall that you used for your last combo.

Question 2...Yes, Transdapt $50ish, S&P, John B and many others...

Question 3...I'm not sure

Question 4...Yes

Question 5... Schoenfeld Headers, long tubes(what i am using), S&P (mid length), I think one of the guys on here are using Hookers.

Question 6... If you are gonna keep it fuel injection...From what i have heard, it's not that hard at all...if your buddy did all the wiring that the car has now, he should be able to do the wiring for this also. If you get the wiring harness customized by speartech i've heard it's much more easier...usually about less than 9 wires to get the thing running.

If you go carburated, you will only need to supply the the msd controller and electric fuel pump with power...I believe. I haven't finished my swap yet, but based on what i have learned on this site that's pretty much all you will need

Sluggish

iTrader: (10)

I forgot to ask what oil pan.

deeloc1

iTrader: (20)

you can use a stock f-body pan and have it modified to fit our cars or you can use a truck (lq9/4) pan and have it modified. If i were you i would go with the truck pan because they are easier and cheaper to find. I bought my truck pan and pick-up for $50 bucks ($58shipped) and it will cost me around $50 bucks or less to have it modified (sump and pick-up cut 2"). You won't catch a used F-body pan for $150 unless you are very lucky, and S&P and guys on this site are charging $225+shipping to mod the pan for you!!! you choose...$100 vs. $375+shipping...aftermarket pans have been having a problem bolting up correctly and not to many people have used the moroso or milodon pans because they require a remote oil filter hook-up. That combo totals out to over $400bucks!

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

If your stock flexplate has the correct pattern for the convertor to bolt to, you can use the spaver made by Hughes performance. It slips over the convertor snout and makes it long enough to reach the flexplate.

You can knotch and box the frame cross member for the pan clearance. It's free and work great. Box it back in with 3/16" flat bar and it will be as strong or stronger than before.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Since you are doing this on a drag car you could probably get away with a stock truck pan, especially if you don`t drive it on the street. The pan will hang down 2-3 inches below the crossmember but you could probably get away with that at the track.

Or you can get a stock f-body pan to fit in without cutting the pan or crossmember, that is what I did. This will require cutting the heater box and fiber glassing it for clearance (if you still have it). My pan clears by ~3/8" by the crossmember, and the back of the head is ~1/4" in front of the firewall. Yes it is very tight but theres no noise during normal driving, if you put it in reverse and mash the gas it sounds like the pass head may touch the firewall, but not if you back up like a normal person, you have to get into the throttle in reverse to hear it. Oh yeah and you have to grind the rear boss off the pass valvecover and cut the last support tab off the back of the coil holder.

John B

iTrader: (10)

The bolt-in motor mounts I sell run $175 + $15 shipping. They are a direct fit.

Roller406Bu

iTrader: (1)

Moroso makes a pan that fits with no mods whatsover, I know because I have it in my malibu...

deeloc1

iTrader: (20)

does it have a romote oil filter? if not, how much did it cost you and do you have a part number?

Roller406Bu

iTrader: (1)

yes it has the remote oil filter...

bgblockelcamino

iTrader: (9)

just did this swap a little while ago in a 78 malibu
we used the stock truck pan with no probs
the motor mounts used were ones sold on Ebay they just relocated the engine saddles and dropped on the original motor mounts. pretty clever and it was simple
the wiring was pretty simple for most part. just have someone convert your stock harness and it will be labeled for plug and play.
The only thing we did on the swap that i did not care for was the fuel system. we used a VW rabbit inline fuel pump. although it works great i would opt for a Grand National fuel tank that way you will have a fuel injected tank with return line. Just seems easier IMO.

Roller406Bu

iTrader: (1)

There's no way you can use a truck pan on a lowered car, just so people know......

Sluggish

iTrader: (10)

I don't know about using a truck pan if it does hang down that low. I don't want the car to pull the wheels and come down on to the pan. Does anyone know the weight of an all iron SBC vs. LS1?

Im going to take some pictures of it today so yall can get a fell of what Im working with. There is no heat box in the car and if I need more clearance I will beat the firewall in some.

Are these solid? Thats what I would perfer.


And what Schoenfeld Headers fit? The LS1 street stock?

Roller406Bu

iTrader: (1)

deeloc1

iTrader: (20)

That moroso pan looks nice!...and i would get it if i wasn't on a budget, but for now i'll stick to my truck pan that i'll get cut 2".

Roller406Bu

iTrader: (1)

I understand I didn't want to fool with cutting and losing oil capicity..Pan isn't expensive by no means 220 or 230....You could use a camaro pickup to save some money and a remote oil filter isnt very high either...

bgblockelcamino

iTrader: (9)

had to confirm. it is the lowest point on the car. but there is still plenty of clearance. this car was lowered 2 inches also but seems fine. this car has a stock 6.0 with a 6 spd
this is using a truck oil pan

Sluggish

iTrader: (10)

Here are some pictures, like I said before the car is very gutted. I built this car in high school on minimum wage. Me and my buddy took the less weight is free speed to the limit on a poor boys budget. I'm planning getting a bigger aluminum radiator. Also don't hate the solid motor mount mod.

Sluggish

iTrader: (10)

Is this the oil pan you used?
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=17002