evilbeef54

iTrader: (2)

Okay i'm starting to get pissed off, lol. I cant seem to hook up at all, i started a few weeks ago with my MT ET street radials trying 18-15psi, that didn't really work, i went back a week later and tried 18-24 psi, still no luck and pretty much the exact same 60' times, and then i went out tonight. I started at 26 psi and tried 24 a few times went down to 18 then back up to 26. No matter what my psi is from 15-26 i am spining quite a bit off the line and getting a 60' of 1.9-2.1. I have tried staging at about 2k rpm, 1k rpm, and idle. I have tried stabing the throttle right to WOT and holding it, i have tried rolling into the throttle. It seems to be pushing the tail slightly right off the line, i know i should get new springs with an airbag in the right, then straightening out on hooking up past the 60'. It seems that with every change i make be it psi or launching technique it seems to have no difference on my times. The last time i was at the track the DA was about 4000' it was 100* F out side and i was hitting 1.9-2.1 60's for a 13.4-13.5 run. Tonight it was 55*f out side and i was hitting 1.9-2.2 60's for a 13.3-13.6 run. Besides magically finding some money for some suspension work, or ditching the 4.10's for some 3.73's i dont know what to do. I also was running about the same numbers on a 18" super hard street tire as i am with these MT ET street radials, i did pick up these ET's used (supposedly had only 2 passes on them) but the tread looks great and they seem fine. I also marked them to be sure they weren't slipping on the rim, and they are not. Any thoughts? or just try to scrape up some $$ for springs and suspension?

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Just a few questions...

Which car did you take out and maybe I missed it in the block writitng, what trans??

Assuming its the 94z I dont see a tq arm and if it's a manual car thats a whole different beast when it comes to suspension and tire setup. If it's auto, what I can say is with my 94 z28 383 n/a on 3.23's 245/25-16 nittos, STOCK EVERYTHING, and a 2800 stall I managed 1.71's all day at LVD which for the North east is the most horrible of tracks especially prep, and thats going on a street night. Thats when all the FWD cars dragging water onto the line.

ndfrsd6

iTrader: (5)

well my m/t dr's hooked a 1.49 60ft when i had my M6 so they will hook ...im assuming you have a M6 and your talking about your 94 Z , little bit of info would help for the right advice ...what size radial were you running

ndfrsd6

iTrader: (5)

^^^man you beat me to it ha ha

Krazy98Z28

iTrader: (12)

How are you doing a burnout?

evilbeef54

iTrader: (2)

woops sorry forgot to throw that info in there, okay it is my 94z it is an A4 car, supposedly the trans has had a performance rebuild to it, i dont know it is how i got it. The tires are 255/50/16's on stock transam wheels (they were the biggest i could get the larger ones were on national backorder). As far as the burnout goes i am getting the back tires in the water box, just on the edge of it, bringing the rpms up to about 3k in 2nd gear and holding it untill the rpms start to drop off and it starts to get smokey, then feathering off the break while rolling up toward the line. Thanks everyone

Krazy98Z28

iTrader: (12)

you should bring your rpms alot higher in the burnout.

evilbeef54

iTrader: (2)

where di you suggest, going back and looking at my datalogs again, it looks like the ones where i got the burnout real nice and smokey i had the rpms up at about 5k-5300 by the end of the burnout

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Some people go by seconds of time, some go by the amount of smoke they see, if you burnout and roll from the spot, letting off the throttle and it barks or catches, then it's enough of a burnout.

Getting a TQ arm on there will help ALOT, Maybe a set of adjustible QA1's and also a bigger converter.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Do you still have the stock converter? If so, the DR's won't really help that much. As mentioned above you need to bring the revs higher during the burnout and to hold it a little longer to generate heat to make the tires sticky. MT DR's seem to work best around 18 psi.

evilbeef54

iTrader: (2)

thanks guys, i believe it does have a smaller converter in it, i'm not sure, that's what i was told, i haven't had the trans out though. i just read the FAQ threads and it looks like people are having great sucess with about 22psi and small burnouts, should these burnouts be done dry or wet?

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

The one thing among many that I have learned about racing is that EVERY car is different and you have the same set up in 10 different Fbodies and they all like different tire/stall/gear/suspension combos. Now I am a person who is all about the optinum setups to make the best of what you have and that not knowing what you have can be a bad thing.

I would suspect you got a smallish stall and if it was big, the 'verter could be bad (i doubt) but basically these pigs need to get out of the hole hard and thats by either....

Lighten the car
Make more power
Launch at a higher RPM

The point is your going to have to learn on the car and getting the car to leave at the highest tire PSI but at the same time leaving at maximum effort is what you want, because the higher the tire PSI, the better the car runs from the 330 foot or so and on ward and ultimately will do well on the top end. The race is indeed won in most cases in the first 60 feet, unless your a big turbo car with enough steam to drive around