mf2kta

iTrader: (3)

I've got a 00 Trans-Am M6. 9 years ago, stock, I ran a 13.3 @ 108 on radials in Alabama.

Couple of months ago, with headers and tune (335 to the wheels) I could only run 13.5 @ 106 in Arizona.

Yesterday, New cam (225/229 .580/.590 lift) with an ls6 intake, I run 13.0 @ 111!! I know with that trap speed, the bad driver is not coming off the line real well. However, there were C6 Auto Vettes running 13.4's and 13.5's. If a new C6 is that slow, is my 13.0 decent. Or am I really that bad of a driver? My 60 ft was 2.0. I have a 10 bolt, so I'm not ripping it off the line, nor do I powershift. 315 drag radials in the back, no burn outs. Any thoughts?

streetassasin

iTrader: (30)

I bet the D.A. was horrible

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

mph is low. give it a tune up (plugs, wires, filters).

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I am sure weather will always play a factor, especially when you change locations! Nevermind the fact your home track could vary .1 to .4 tenths depending on the time of year....

But as I review your post, there are a few things I see and a few things that I want to point out....

- Was the car tuned and dynoed!? If not, do that ASAP

- You may need some more supporting mods like heads and a good flowing cat back or at least, a cut out before the over-axle dump.

- What clutch in the car? What Milage?

- What RPM you leaving? Technique? Air PSI in tires

- Why are you not burning out? Have line-lock?

- Weight of the car w/ you? AKA Race Weight.

- When you make the jump from Bolt on's to Cam Only, the launch RPM changes and given the lack of gearing, and heavy weight, it tends to be 4k-5k rpms and its a dump, as riding the clutch will kill it.

-Due to the lack of suspension, possibly tune issues, no line lock, on seemingly a tire that has no side wall and absolutely zero suspension work. I am not suprised at the time. IMO there is plenty of work that needs to be done before you would determine if the car is slow, or now.

Get some stuff done but in the end you have a 10 bolt and those do break with ease, start saving for that, a good set of bias ply slicks and start practicing, you should be in the 12's in no time.

mf2kta

iTrader: (3)

BSM:
-Not dynoed with the cam yet. I know, I know. It's getting done Saturday and I was impatient.
-Pace Setter headers with TSP y-pipe. The cat's on there are kind of questionable, and a magnaflow muffler. Not catback, muffler only. Probably should get a cut-out.
-Ls6 clutch with new slave and master about 20K miles ago.
-Launch: 2000-2500 RPM, easing the clutch out (again, trying to keep 10 bolt from exploding). 13psi on 315/35/17 Nitto drag radial on 17 x 11 TTII's. (I'm thinking about going with a 16 inch drag radial, because I know those TTII's are a ton of weight).
-No line lock yet. No burn out to keep clutch from frying. I get about 3 or 4 passes before I smell it "burning."
-Weighed at 3711 years and years ago. With reduced weight in car and my reduced weight, I 'd guess about 3620.
-Bilsteins on all 4 corners, stock rear springs with spacer gone, lowered front spring, BMR control arms, panhard rod and SLP subframe connectors.

I'm just waiting for the 10 bolt to pop and then get a 12 bolt. With a tune, I'm sure I'm in the 12's.

Just frustrating, because "internet" racers seem to all go low 12's with a Cam and M6. Know what I mean? Was just hoping for more.

Thanks for the input though!

(The other guy probably hit it right on the head....needs plug wires...)

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

yea dont feel bad, but you really need to get the tune check to ensure it is safe and also your making the correct power. I suspect you can add some timing to it and its going to wake up.

I def see those tires not going back to the track. When I ran my decent time I borrow a set of convo pros and 26" tall ET Drags and did awesome. My Street tire is a stock ws.6 17" rim and Nittos and that works fine there.

My race weight is more and needs to get cut down too. I am assuming your on a 3.42's which in these cars you need the 4.10 BUT might as well wait for the 12 bolt swap.

Def before it gets tuned, make sure its running mechaincally good.

As for internet racers, there are tons of factors we do not know about them. I will tell you DA and track conditions can make a car faster or slower by 2-4 tenths. I run at LVD in NY and when you go from there on a coldish day to Atco on a -1000 DA, your going to gain 3 tenths. A Kid in the drag racing results section just proved that. No other real driving skill before or after BUT the conditions help the car go 3 tenths and I think 2-3 mph quicker.

firstinlastout86

iTrader: (4)

Ya you deffantly need a tune, your losing power somewhere. I'm in South Florida and with the mods in my sig minus the BBK TB I ran 12.4 @114 and my stock injectors were at 102% duty cycle at 5200rpm so im sure ill be quicker with some #42's. So maybe you too are running out of injector (your tuner will tell you when you dyno it)... I also am not ripping it off the line due to the weak 10 bolt and I was on heavy 17'' zr1 replicas.... 13 psi. seems low, someone tell me if im wrong but was under the impression that the cold psi of the DR should be = to the diameter of the tire 17'' = 17psi? Best of luck keep us updated on what she puts down after the tune!