What's the highest ET for an F-Body to pull a wheel?
#1
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What's the highest ET for an F-Body to pull a wheel?
Curious as to who has pulled a wheel, and at what ET did you start doing so? Please mentioned suspension package.
I just redid my entire rear suspension with adjustable products (kept stock torque arm; no subframes) and am adding a 100 shot of nitrous. With a good tire, I was curious if I would pull a tire off the line. With this combo & my baby cam, I should be looking at around 460RWHP/480RWTQ would be my guess.
I've heard of one guy pulling the tires in an 84 Fairmont that only ran low 14s, but supposidly his suspension was dialed in perfect. What seems to be the magic # for F-body's to get some air?
I just redid my entire rear suspension with adjustable products (kept stock torque arm; no subframes) and am adding a 100 shot of nitrous. With a good tire, I was curious if I would pull a tire off the line. With this combo & my baby cam, I should be looking at around 460RWHP/480RWTQ would be my guess.
I've heard of one guy pulling the tires in an 84 Fairmont that only ran low 14s, but supposidly his suspension was dialed in perfect. What seems to be the magic # for F-body's to get some air?
#7
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-m...ay-new-pb.html
Feel Free to Read.
Low 12's
m6 Trans
26" Bias Ply
!Front Sway
TQ arm and LCA w/ Relocation Bracket
making 380 rwhp
5,500 RPM Dump
Good Burn out
4.10 gears.
--------------------
As for the other posters, its not a retarted question.
For the OP, there is a difference between POPPING a tire and pulling a wheel and riding it out. Just Popping looks cool but its wasted energy. If you can get it to lift and ride it out, that is more ideal.
Every car is different, some dont look impressive at all (i.e. no Drama) and run very fast.
Depending on how much weight you take off the nose, how much power you make, gear and so on and so forth will determine when you can pop wheels.
Feel Free to Read.
Low 12's
m6 Trans
26" Bias Ply
!Front Sway
TQ arm and LCA w/ Relocation Bracket
making 380 rwhp
5,500 RPM Dump
Good Burn out
4.10 gears.
--------------------
As for the other posters, its not a retarted question.
For the OP, there is a difference between POPPING a tire and pulling a wheel and riding it out. Just Popping looks cool but its wasted energy. If you can get it to lift and ride it out, that is more ideal.
Every car is different, some dont look impressive at all (i.e. no Drama) and run very fast.
Depending on how much weight you take off the nose, how much power you make, gear and so on and so forth will determine when you can pop wheels.
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; 02-03-2010 at 02:30 PM.
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#10
#13
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get some lca relocation brackets and use the bottom holes. it will shorten the instant center and hit the tire harder. i would also replace the torque arm too. i have seen a few rip apart and do some damage. years ago with an LT1 car, it pulled the tires and went mid 12's. all i had was a jegs torque arm, BMR lca's, BMR rear sway bar, lakewood shocks in back and QA1's in front with no sway bar.
#18
Got a bar or a cage? Some guys with a good 6 point or 10 pt don't have subframes but as you go up in power you'll need to tie the bottom together. The bar/cage ties the chassis together up top but will allow flex under load.
I installed subframes within weeks of buying my TA new back in '98-t tops still don't leak
That's because the chassis doesn't flex.
I installed subframes within weeks of buying my TA new back in '98-t tops still don't leak
That's because the chassis doesn't flex.