SS4Luck

iTrader: (10)

I have a dead drain on my battery that i have spent the last 2 weeks trying to chase down that i cant find. Im wondering if being that im moving the battery to the trunk and putting a kill switch back there that if i put a fresh battery in and every time i get out of the car i just push the kill switch and leave everything unhooked if the battery will still drain.

I know its a bandaid fix but im chasing down more than one gremlin and for the life of me cant find out where it is. I took my HVAC out and since then things have been screwy with my car but i took alot more than the hvac out too. I lost my interior lights power locks but my power windows still work. I dont have a key fob so i cant tell if my remote works too. So i think something might be up with the BCM and also i put a tach in and used the radio power and ground for a source for the tach and for some reason i think it might be that too. I also put in an MSD 2 step but that doesnt hook into anything for power, just the coil packs and a splice to the clutch switch off of the PCM. And i took out the ABS module so i got alot of **** to chase down

im jsut at a loss with this car and my rear end is coming in soon and i want the car road going by the time its here

airfix

iTrader: (30)

That will work, but like you said it's a bandaid fix. I've also got a drain to find aswell. It started after I deleted my airbags and HVAC, not looking forward to doing that once the car is running.

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

Do you get sparks when you connect the last battery cable with key out of ignition?

Do you get sparks when you connect the last battery cable with key in the accessory position?

This little test should help you chase it down by eliminating items which are wired to battery power or to key on power.

SS4Luck

iTrader: (10)

Wheni hooked up this last battery it sparked when i was hooking up the last cable when there was no key in the ignition. Can you explain what this test will show??

i undersant this is a huge bandaid type fix, but there are a few things on the car that i am working on while waiting for the rear end to come in and it would be alot easier if i can have the car on and runing without having to put a new battery in it every 2 weeks. I was planning on relocating the battery anyway, now itll just get moved up to the front of the next mod list instead of the back lol

STOCK1090

iTrader: (1)

Take the positive battery cable off and put a test light between it and the battery positive terminal leaving the negatve in place. It should light up if there is a draw. Start pulling fuses and/or disconnecting wires until the light goes out. When it goes out you found the circuit with the draw. Narrow it down from there.

SS4Luck

iTrader: (10)

okay thanks


im a electrical troubleshoot moron

-LS1-

iTrader: (4)

Sorry to hijack the thread OP, but I'm diagnosing a battery draw issue as well. I hooked up a test light and the light was pretty bright, when I pulled the seat/defog fuse (one of the dash fuses) it dimmed considerably (but light was still on). It never dimmed at all when I pulled any other fuse. This makes sense because the last time I tried adjusting my seat it didn't work, and my rear window defog wasn't working last time either. I unplugged the seat itself and now the test light is dim with the fuse in or out. Should the test light be totally out/aka do I have another draw somewhere? I'm going to leave the seat unplugged and see how long my battery lasts (from a full charge it would be dead in 3-4 days). Also, does anyone have any idea what the problem could be with the seat/defog? If there's a relay for that I wouldn't know since one of my fuse covers under the hood is MIA.

STOCK1090

iTrader: (1)

Some things like voltage regulators, computers or radios for memory will draw a small amount. Just make sure your doors and hatch are closed and the the glove box light is out. Just some of the things I forgot in the past. Make sure you also check anything that is not fused you may have added.