Best way to take off the line?
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Best way to take off the line?
Hey guys, sorry if this sounds like a lame question, but I was wonder what the best (and safest) way to take off the line? This applies to street and track take offs. Not implying street racing, but more so just a great start.
I've heard a few different methods on the proper way to get going from a stop/dig. All of which require warming the tires up first. I was wondering which was the correct way.
Option 1: Hold throttle down to set RPM (let's say 1600RPM). Then when light turns green, let go of clutch fast and take off. I'm not sure how safe this is for the drivetrain though.
Option 2: A second or two before the light changes, do a burnout in place (either with a line locker or just foot on the brake) and release brake (tires still spinning) when light is green. However, this method leads me to believe that traction may be a problem since those spinning wheels will take a second or two to catch. It may be safer than dumping the clutch, but is it efficient?
Option 3: Put car into gear but hold clutch in, wait for light to change while idling. When light changes, do two things at the same time: release clutch pedal and opening throttle. I would assume that this is safer than dumping the clutch, but won't it bog you down and slow the launch?
Option 4: Similar to option 1, instead of dropping the clutch at 1600PRM, I've heard that people let the clutch out slowly. Though this is my least favorable suggestion. It screams burnt clutch .
Option 5: Or do I start driving normally/casually first gear, and then gun it when I'm at about 10MPH and my foot is completely off the clutch? This should minimize any traction problems since I'm already rolling, but may not be quick.
So which is the right way to launch? I'm getting a Crane 227 cam, Gold 1.6RR, and a tune done soon, so I want to head down to the track to see how she likes the upgrades . A bad launch can hinder a quarter mile badly.
Thanks!
I've heard a few different methods on the proper way to get going from a stop/dig. All of which require warming the tires up first. I was wondering which was the correct way.
Option 1: Hold throttle down to set RPM (let's say 1600RPM). Then when light turns green, let go of clutch fast and take off. I'm not sure how safe this is for the drivetrain though.
Option 2: A second or two before the light changes, do a burnout in place (either with a line locker or just foot on the brake) and release brake (tires still spinning) when light is green. However, this method leads me to believe that traction may be a problem since those spinning wheels will take a second or two to catch. It may be safer than dumping the clutch, but is it efficient?
Option 3: Put car into gear but hold clutch in, wait for light to change while idling. When light changes, do two things at the same time: release clutch pedal and opening throttle. I would assume that this is safer than dumping the clutch, but won't it bog you down and slow the launch?
Option 4: Similar to option 1, instead of dropping the clutch at 1600PRM, I've heard that people let the clutch out slowly. Though this is my least favorable suggestion. It screams burnt clutch .
Option 5: Or do I start driving normally/casually first gear, and then gun it when I'm at about 10MPH and my foot is completely off the clutch? This should minimize any traction problems since I'm already rolling, but may not be quick.
So which is the right way to launch? I'm getting a Crane 227 cam, Gold 1.6RR, and a tune done soon, so I want to head down to the track to see how she likes the upgrades . A bad launch can hinder a quarter mile badly.
Thanks!
Last edited by mixtape; 07-14-2011 at 10:39 PM. Reason: Added an Option 5
#2
10 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
I would say option 4. On the street I rev it 3000 to 5000 and let the clutch out quick. Not a dump but not a slip "quick" but my car is a ton different. You being on street tires I am sure just let it out and romp on it and may have to feather the throttle a little bit then jam second.
#3
Option 2 is fast and the furious style. It will also be by far the worst!!!!!
1 or 4 are the most common. On a fairly stock car often some clutch slip will net you your best times but it is hard on the clutch.
In an ideal world, you find the sweet spot and dump the clutch from there. A tiny amount of slip is often needed but we are talking .5-1 second from full clutch to letting it off compleatly.
1 or 4 are the most common. On a fairly stock car often some clutch slip will net you your best times but it is hard on the clutch.
In an ideal world, you find the sweet spot and dump the clutch from there. A tiny amount of slip is often needed but we are talking .5-1 second from full clutch to letting it off compleatly.
#7
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow, looks like I have some trial and error to do. Glad to know the options, and hear what works for you guys, and what doesn't. For a car that I drive almost half of the year, I really don't know how often I'll burn/slip the clutch, but it seems that will minimize rear end stress and tire spinning. Though dumping the clutch too high can be quite stressful on a stock rear. Especially with the Crane 227 cam. Guess it'll come down to experimenting. Which I agree, is all part of the fun .
As for the rear end and and tires, I'm sorry I didn't include that info in the first post. I have a stock rear end, and I believe a stock clutch (had a "springless" racing clutch in another car and didn't like the rough engagement feeling/constant chatter while downshifting), and I was looking to pickup some Nitto NT555RII tires for the rear wheels either this summer or next. I'm currently running very very worn out all seasons that came on the car when I bought it. Fun for donuts, not for traction. Though surprisingly aren't too terrible when warmed up. The NT555RII's aren't the stickiest, but I've heard nothing but good things, and handling is great considering what it is. Miles ahead of the 555R on the street with less wear, but not quite as sticky as the 555R. A great mix for mild cam on stock heads.
Thank you guys for all the input! Unfortunately I won't have the car back together until late August but I look forward to it!
That'll earn me the fastest time ...to the tow truck .
but you really should've put a "" or "lol" in that post. What if I didn't know any better and took your advice? Plus you know someone's going to read this thread in the future and try that out your suggestion on a stock rear .
As for the rear end and and tires, I'm sorry I didn't include that info in the first post. I have a stock rear end, and I believe a stock clutch (had a "springless" racing clutch in another car and didn't like the rough engagement feeling/constant chatter while downshifting), and I was looking to pickup some Nitto NT555RII tires for the rear wheels either this summer or next. I'm currently running very very worn out all seasons that came on the car when I bought it. Fun for donuts, not for traction. Though surprisingly aren't too terrible when warmed up. The NT555RII's aren't the stickiest, but I've heard nothing but good things, and handling is great considering what it is. Miles ahead of the 555R on the street with less wear, but not quite as sticky as the 555R. A great mix for mild cam on stock heads.
Thank you guys for all the input! Unfortunately I won't have the car back together until late August but I look forward to it!
but you really should've put a "" or "lol" in that post. What if I didn't know any better and took your advice? Plus you know someone's going to read this thread in the future and try that out your suggestion on a stock rear .
Trending Topics
#8
9 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Last time I checked this is the "drag racing" section not the powder puff section. People drag race for fastest times. You have to pay to play, there is no free lunch in drag racing and **** breaks. If you're worried about your stock clutch and rear end you shouldn't even be in this section.
#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: savannah, orlando, dc
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
6 grand trans brake launch on a 300 shot.
or just spray a 400 shot from idle, make sure the window switch comes on at 600rpm. maybe just start spraying before you turn the car on.
but for realzies its a thing of feel, just gotta figure your car out yourself..
or just spray a 400 shot from idle, make sure the window switch comes on at 600rpm. maybe just start spraying before you turn the car on.
but for realzies its a thing of feel, just gotta figure your car out yourself..
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Last time I checked this is the "drag racing" section not the powder puff section. People drag race for fastest times. You have to pay to play, there is no free lunch in drag racing and **** breaks. If you're worried about your stock clutch and rear end you shouldn't even be in this section.
I don't want to be the guy who bases his skills off of Fast and the Furious, or take advice from that friend who likes to sound like he knows what he's talking about when he clearly is making stuff up lol. Plus every time something breaks on my Camaro, I gotta take it off the road for a month or two while I save up and fix it. So basically what I'm saying is that we all gotta start somewhere.
Now if I miss a gear or stall out on the strip, then that's a different story .
#12
Last time I checked this is the "drag racing" section not the powder puff section. People drag race for fastest times. You have to pay to play, there is no free lunch in drag racing and **** breaks. If you're worried about your stock clutch and rear end you shouldn't even be in this section.
The best bet for your situation is the very quick slip/dump. Very little stress or wear on the clutch and not a really big shock to the rear end.
#13
9 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Don't ever put slicks on your 10 bolt and you should be fine. People have still managed to break them on the street somehow. I was being a bit sarcastic but just be prepared the 10 bolt can go at anytime. My car has been a daily for the last 3 years and I don't want to break anything either. My 10 bolt never did blow up and I beat on it pretty good but I never put slicks on it. You want to avoid a "dead hook" that will break stuff. Either do a quick slip or rev a little higher to get a little wheel spin.