How are you guys running your positive cables from the rear?
02-14-2012, 12:48 PM
#2
What ever you do, don't run them where a jack or lift can pinch them. Or where they can be crushed by a speed bump or curb. Be sure to read up on the problems others are experiencing before you decide to move the battery.
Al 95 Z28
Al 95 Z28
02-14-2012, 12:59 PM
#3
This is why I ran them in the car the whole way up my Nova, and through the Firewall.
02-14-2012, 01:21 PM
#4
I would definatly keep them inside!!!!! Anyone who runs them outside is just foolish in my opinion. Event on a track only car I would not run them outside. If you have interior that would be nice and easy, if you are gutted then you need to just keep it tight and tidy.
02-14-2012, 02:13 PM
#5
Ill run it inside the car, its just with all the bundle of nitrous line, bottle opener/heater wiring there's a bunch of crap running along the passenger side now lol ill make it work!
Thanks for the input guys
02-14-2012, 04:08 PM
#6
10 Second Club
I ran mine up the side of the sub-frame connectors with metal clamps that are rubber coated. I also used a Ford solenoid so the line is only hot when starting. 
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02-14-2012, 05:50 PM
#8
Yes, def run em inside the car, Mine goes from a dist power block on my passenger side front rail, There the wire goes between the engine an rail over to under my ecm, through a hole under the carpet about 8 inches away from side trim to the back passenger side of the hatch spare tire where my battery is. Make sure your seat brackets dont pinch or crush it either
02-15-2012, 06:17 AM
#11
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Not to Hijack but what size wire is everyone using? I have seen the diagrams on how to split the line off, are you using the same size line there or is it different?
02-15-2012, 07:51 PM
#14
I ran mine up the side of the sub-frame connectors with metal clamps that are rubber coated. I also used a Ford solenoid so the line is only hot when starting.
Attachment 340212
Attachment 340213
Attachment 340212
Attachment 340213
If you want to discuss this civilly, start a new thread as this one is to help him, not to confuse the issue of how to run wires. And it's going to take some discussing to help.
Al 95 Z28
02-16-2012, 04:47 AM
#15
10 Second Club
God help me! Not trying to be an *******, but: The Ford solenoid does not help anything in this case. It's a waste of time and money. Your wiring diagram is not legal in NHRA drag racing. Read the rule book.
If you want to discuss this civilly, start a new thread as this one is to help him, not to confuse the issue of how to run wires. And it's going to take some discussing to help.
Al 95 Z28
If you want to discuss this civilly, start a new thread as this one is to help him, not to confuse the issue of how to run wires. And it's going to take some discussing to help.
Al 95 Z28
The 2nd diagram does and will pass NHRA Tech...and the Ford 'noid makes it so the battery cable to the front of the car is dead except during cranking/starting. I like the fact that I have only 1 (fused) line,hot all the time) while the car sits in garage.
02-16-2012, 02:51 PM
#16
Yes, the 1st diagram would not pass NHRA Tech but works.
The 2nd diagram does and will pass NHRA Tech...and the Ford 'noid makes it so the battery cable to the front of the car is dead except during cranking/starting. I like the fact that I have only 1 (fused) line,hot all the time) while the car sits in garage.
The 2nd diagram does and will pass NHRA Tech...and the Ford 'noid makes it so the battery cable to the front of the car is dead except during cranking/starting. I like the fact that I have only 1 (fused) line,hot all the time) while the car sits in garage.
Al 95 Z28
02-16-2012, 03:08 PM
#17
10 Second Club
This does work, and kills power to the entire car...I can promise you this.
It's the diagram I followed to a tee. The only hot line is the one from the alternator to the battery (fused) and the 12"-14" from the battery to the disconnect.
It's the diagram I followed to a tee. The only hot line is the one from the alternator to the battery (fused) and the 12"-14" from the battery to the disconnect.
8.4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The external control switch for this cutoff switch will be clearly indicated by a red flash inside a white-edged blue triangle with a base of at least 12 cm (see drawing 25). The positions must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If switch is "push/pull" type, push must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear engine dragsters
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The external control switch for this cutoff switch will be clearly indicated by a red flash inside a white-edged blue triangle with a base of at least 12 cm (see drawing 25). The positions must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If switch is "push/pull" type, push must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear engine dragsters
02-17-2012, 02:32 PM
#19
This does work, and kills power to the entire car...I can promise you this.
It's the diagram I followed to a tee. The only hot line is the one from the alternator to the battery (fused) and the 12"-14" from the battery to the disconnect.
Attachment 340511
It's the diagram I followed to a tee. The only hot line is the one from the alternator to the battery (fused) and the 12"-14" from the battery to the disconnect.
Attachment 340511
Maybe someone will add something here.
Think I replied to the wrong thread.. You guys will figure it out
Al 95 Z28 with the battery under the hood. All my other race cars have them relocated. The bulkhead requirement stopped me from moving it.
