M6 ET streets suck
08-06-2012, 06:12 PM
#22
try more Psi
are the rear shocks DA, you really need them for TA. put them at or close to full stiff comp, and full loose rebound.and adjust them form there. watch of the rim pushing the tire into the pavement, and the body not down on the wheel( gap)
you need to get the IC aggressive, no high and far out setup, at the 28x10.5 ETdrags will work with m6 guys use. This is what sucks, you can't set it up and it repeats easy, but you need to slip the clutch. This is hard to do and get right, you think you might be but its alot harder then then you think, and its a hit or miss this.
If you get the car working right you can be leaving at 5700-6200 were you have alot more power, and not worry about the bog thing pulling the motor down under 5K. thats what gets a good 60 on DR
are the rear shocks DA, you really need them for TA. put them at or close to full stiff comp, and full loose rebound.and adjust them form there. watch of the rim pushing the tire into the pavement, and the body not down on the wheel( gap)
you need to get the IC aggressive, no high and far out setup, at the 28x10.5 ETdrags will work with m6 guys use. This is what sucks, you can't set it up and it repeats easy, but you need to slip the clutch. This is hard to do and get right, you think you might be but its alot harder then then you think, and its a hit or miss this.
If you get the car working right you can be leaving at 5700-6200 were you have alot more power, and not worry about the bog thing pulling the motor down under 5K. thats what gets a good 60 on DR
08-06-2012, 06:46 PM
#23
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15 inch et streets are bias plys or radials?
with a stick you want bias plys to absorb the clutch shock. if you are bogging, have you thought about adding power?
i have run both, found best results with et streets at 15 psi for a slight amount of spin (maybe two turns to save drivetrain on street car) and around 22 psi with et street radials.
with a stick you want bias plys to absorb the clutch shock. if you are bogging, have you thought about adding power?
i have run both, found best results with et streets at 15 psi for a slight amount of spin (maybe two turns to save drivetrain on street car) and around 22 psi with et street radials.
try more Psi
are the rear shocks DA, you really need them for TA. put them at or close to full stiff comp, and full loose rebound.and adjust them form there. watch of the rim pushing the tire into the pavement, and the body not down on the wheel( gap)
you need to get the IC aggressive, no high and far out setup, at the 28x10.5 ETdrags will work with m6 guys use. This is what sucks, you can't set it up and it repeats easy, but you need to slip the clutch. This is hard to do and get right, you think you might be but its alot harder then then you think, and its a hit or miss this.
If you get the car working right you can be leaving at 5700-6200 were you have alot more power, and not worry about the bog thing pulling the motor down under 5K. thats what gets a good 60 on DR
are the rear shocks DA, you really need them for TA. put them at or close to full stiff comp, and full loose rebound.and adjust them form there. watch of the rim pushing the tire into the pavement, and the body not down on the wheel( gap)
you need to get the IC aggressive, no high and far out setup, at the 28x10.5 ETdrags will work with m6 guys use. This is what sucks, you can't set it up and it repeats easy, but you need to slip the clutch. This is hard to do and get right, you think you might be but its alot harder then then you think, and its a hit or miss this.
If you get the car working right you can be leaving at 5700-6200 were you have alot more power, and not worry about the bog thing pulling the motor down under 5K. thats what gets a good 60 on DR
27x11.5 QTP's, full weight, full rear suspension and cutting 1.66x's here ... decent launches at 4500 with some spin but not blowing them off with stock front shocks (they seem to be unloading the rear a bit) .... am in the process of installing front DA's and sway delete and will be moving the launch up to 5000.... a few more shake down passes and will probably switch to 28x10.5 ET Drags. Searching for those 6/10 second passes in good DA.
Head to my Youtube channel for most of my passes .... http://www.youtube.com/user/BrianSFGA/videos .... the car is a work in progress.
Last edited by BrianSF-GA; 08-13-2012 at 08:12 PM.
08-06-2012, 08:39 PM
#24
I have single adjustable hals in the back, and strange coil overs in the front, all are set on the loose side. John I know you run up there and the track is not the greatest. I'm going to get the ET streets 27.6 inch tire, and start playing with the suspension and launch technique. My old TA I had the 26 inch ET streets on it and pulled 1.60's all day long launching of the shift light. The fact its a radial tire seems to be the biggest issue with my car.
08-06-2012, 09:00 PM
#25
If your track prep is anything short of fantastic you already have 2 strikes against you. One thing I learned when trying radials a long time ago.. if the prep isn't there to support them, you are going to have a bad day. Combine that with a stick car, and you can scratch any thoughts of having a car that will consistantly do anything other, then give you a headache.
Put a bias ply on there, anything that's bias ply that's the height you need for your gear ratio requirements, and I am 100% that you will be a ton happier. Put a 2 step in the car, set it, floor it and dump that clutch. If the driveline doesn't go BANG, hang on and be ready to pull the next gear quick it won't take long
Put a bias ply on there, anything that's bias ply that's the height you need for your gear ratio requirements, and I am 100% that you will be a ton happier. Put a 2 step in the car, set it, floor it and dump that clutch. If the driveline doesn't go BANG, hang on and be ready to pull the next gear quick it won't take long
08-07-2012, 07:58 AM
#27
the tires you have now are 26 DR, right? why did you get them over the 275/60s (thats what I thought you had at 1st) your getting the et street (DOT slick) in the 27.6 because that's all they make? or you want a tire for gearing? for traction Id run the taller tire with more sidewall. rolling the fenders is nothing, I think you don't want trim the bumper cover in the back. But thats not a big deal either, its just the rear bottom inside and the tire will close and look to fit it really well. You only notice looking under the car, or from under the tail pipe area under the car looking back.
I think you have 4.30 gears? I ran them in 2008-10 and on 28 went 128s fine fyi. Another thins is I don't think you need to trim the bumper at all to run the 28 radials, they don't grow like a bias tire. So you would just have to center the rear end, in the wheel wells and it should be fine to run 275/60/15s. Someone correct me on that? But a bais ply is gona be alot better. Id look at the QTPs for street driving and track, that's about the best tire your gona get to to that. I would get them in 28' and trim the car for them, then will grow but thats gona be better for you to spray too. I think you would get the 28x11.5 or somthing like thats the size them for a 28 x 10wide tread. Going to that tire is gona help alot for you. Or get alot better DA shocks, and spend alot of time getting it to work on DR. I don't know about DR, but noticed the window is super small for them liking the track. ETdrags you can keep them the same PSI, shock, everything form morning to night. (Do your 1st burnout good, then it really dosnt matter, for traction adjustent) If anything I only change the tire PSI (add) to get some more wheel speed, and change the front shocks for how the bouncy is for the airdamn hitting the 60' timmers.
DR you need DA shock, and have a 2 click each way shock window for the track temp, (I dont no this that well how to change for, But noticed it is there) If if gets warmer a little. And at night when it gets cold, they want a different psi, and shock.
But 28 slicks the side wall just works with all of that people just don't know how much till they start running DR alot. I think If I put slicks back out I know alot more now?
The 2step thing dose help, for cutting light, and racing in heads up class its a must. But I think I was actually more consistent WITHOUT it for 60's. Heres why, with the 2step you hold it WOT, then let off the clutch. thats better for cutting lights racing on a pro tree, heads up stuff. But without it I would take my time more, it would be easy TnT passes, roll in last and to even try to cut a light and sit there some times even. And you bring the rpms to 4500-5500 or whatever. To do that clutch pushed in you only need to be at very little throttle. Stock 75mm or a 90+ TB when you think about it its maybe 1/4 throttle, maybe 1/2, nowear close to WOT. Its alot quieter, and smoother. So your way better on you letting the clutch out slower and smoother. You can hear and feel the car and the tires better and make the natural adjustments in "launching". AND you doing this not at WOT so your starting to let the clutch out with a LOT less power Not sure I this but I bet a 415whp cam only car at whatever.. 1/2 throttle, at 5K making 50-75 less hp then WOT 6500. So even when your not "on the 2step" and the normal launch way you do it. You right foot has 50-75 hp to adding you do smoothly not even thinking about it, 1-3 secs about you leave.
On the 2step its... clutch in, WOT...(rev) waiting the leave...(4700,4750,4700,4750)... "Grrrrr,Nn,Nn,Nn,Nn" BAM! + 75hp instant you get off the clutch switch, WHILE you (think) your doing a good job and letting the clutch out smooth and progressive.
I think you have 4.30 gears? I ran them in 2008-10 and on 28 went 128s fine fyi. Another thins is I don't think you need to trim the bumper at all to run the 28 radials, they don't grow like a bias tire. So you would just have to center the rear end, in the wheel wells and it should be fine to run 275/60/15s. Someone correct me on that? But a bais ply is gona be alot better. Id look at the QTPs for street driving and track, that's about the best tire your gona get to to that. I would get them in 28' and trim the car for them, then will grow but thats gona be better for you to spray too. I think you would get the 28x11.5 or somthing like thats the size them for a 28 x 10wide tread. Going to that tire is gona help alot for you. Or get alot better DA shocks, and spend alot of time getting it to work on DR. I don't know about DR, but noticed the window is super small for them liking the track. ETdrags you can keep them the same PSI, shock, everything form morning to night. (Do your 1st burnout good, then it really dosnt matter, for traction adjustent) If anything I only change the tire PSI (add) to get some more wheel speed, and change the front shocks for how the bouncy is for the airdamn hitting the 60' timmers.
DR you need DA shock, and have a 2 click each way shock window for the track temp, (I dont no this that well how to change for, But noticed it is there) If if gets warmer a little. And at night when it gets cold, they want a different psi, and shock.
But 28 slicks the side wall just works with all of that people just don't know how much till they start running DR alot. I think If I put slicks back out I know alot more now?
The 2step thing dose help, for cutting light, and racing in heads up class its a must. But I think I was actually more consistent WITHOUT it for 60's. Heres why, with the 2step you hold it WOT, then let off the clutch. thats better for cutting lights racing on a pro tree, heads up stuff. But without it I would take my time more, it would be easy TnT passes, roll in last and to even try to cut a light and sit there some times even. And you bring the rpms to 4500-5500 or whatever. To do that clutch pushed in you only need to be at very little throttle. Stock 75mm or a 90+ TB when you think about it its maybe 1/4 throttle, maybe 1/2, nowear close to WOT. Its alot quieter, and smoother. So your way better on you letting the clutch out slower and smoother. You can hear and feel the car and the tires better and make the natural adjustments in "launching". AND you doing this not at WOT so your starting to let the clutch out with a LOT less power Not sure I this but I bet a 415whp cam only car at whatever.. 1/2 throttle, at 5K making 50-75 less hp then WOT 6500. So even when your not "on the 2step" and the normal launch way you do it. You right foot has 50-75 hp to adding you do smoothly not even thinking about it, 1-3 secs about you leave.
On the 2step its... clutch in, WOT...(rev) waiting the leave...(4700,4750,4700,4750)... "Grrrrr,Nn,Nn,Nn,Nn" BAM! + 75hp instant you get off the clutch switch, WHILE you (think) your doing a good job and letting the clutch out smooth and progressive.
08-07-2012, 02:46 PM
#28
The tires came on one of my other cars I parted out, all ready mounted on racestars. I'll give the QTP's a shot and get the 28inch size. I'll just have to look up how to roll the fenders I have adjustable control arms I can put on the car to help out. Stock panhard bar but the car is not lowered. Hoping ill be back there in the next few weeks to start testing this out.
08-07-2012, 05:14 PM
#29
With a 4.30 gear you are gonna need a 28" tire to trap the 127 that you think it can. My car with 430's and 26" et drag stiffs traps 119 @ 6400. You gotta watch the sidewall using QTP's or ET streets. M6 cars hit the tires real hard and the stiff sidewall tires tend to do better. Make sure you dont have a POS cast yoke on that driveshaft or that is gonna go BOOM. Alot of guys buy the PST shaft thinking its good for X amount of horsepower and dont get the CM yoke too.
Ryan
Ryan
08-07-2012, 07:15 PM
#30
10 Second Club
Bias-ply and radial-ply tires behave quite differently. Some people reading this thread may get confused because Mickey Thompson uses the name “ET Street” to identify both types of DOT-approved drag tires. And although MT uses the names “ET Street” and “ET Street Radial” to distinguish between the two, the distinction often gets lost.
08-07-2012, 08:19 PM
#31
True I have the Radial version plus a M6 just doesnt work for me. Maybe if I tweaked the suspension etc they may be better but I need a 28 inch tire either way so i'm going for the best I can get. If I pull 1.60's on the bottle I'll be happy should get me booted off the track then I'll have to stick the rollbar in it.
08-13-2012, 02:14 PM
#34
I have ran a 28 tall 275/60/15 M/T drag radial before with M6 and could not get them to hook. something like 1.8 60fts. i switched to a 28x10.50 hoosier slick and went 1.40 60ft. drag radials do not work well with stick cars that have a race type clutch that is all or nothing. it shocks the tire real hard and theres no sidewall give like a bias ply would. once on the slick i could leave at 6,100rpm. light tire spin but carried the front wheels out a car length or 2.
08-14-2012, 09:22 PM
#38
10 Second Club
Studderin’s post #28 above explains how but it is not all easy to read. This post seemed so valuable that I put some effort into making sure I understood what he is telling us. For me, this required some changes. I should have asked his permission to do what I am doing and hope he’ll forgive me. I may have introduced meaning with which he does not agree. If so, I apologize also for that.
-Gary Smith, Berkeley, CA
***************** Studderin #28 – unauthorized edit *******************
I think you have 4.30 gears? I ran 4.30s in 2008-10 and on 28 slicks went 1.28x 60s FYI. Another thing is I don't think you need to trim the bumper at all to run the 28 radials, they don't grow like a bias tire. So you would just have to center the rear end and it should be fine to run 275/60/15s. Can someone correct me on that? But a bias-ply is gonna be a lot better. I’d look at Hoosier QTPs for street driving and track; that's about the best tire you’ll find for that. I would get them in 28' and trim the car for them. They will grow but thats gonna be better for you to spray too. I think you would get the 28x11.5 - thats the size for a 28 x 10wide tread. Going to that tire will help you a lot.
Or get better DA shocks and spend alot of time getting everything to work on DRs. I don't know all about DRs but noticed the window is super small for them liking the track. For DRs you need DA shock, and have a 2-click each way shock window for track temp. I don’t know how to adjust the shocks for that, but noticed they need adjustment if it gets a little warmer. And at night when it gets cold, they want a different psi, and shock adjustment. But with 28 slicks the sidewall just works with all of that. Slicks are less sensitive than DRs. People just don't know how much till they start running DRs a lot.
ETdrags (bias-ply slicks) you can keep them the same PSI, same shock adjustment, everything from morning to night. Do your 1st burnout good, then it really doesn’t matter for traction adjustment. If anything I only change the tire PSI (add) to get some more wheel spin. And change the front shocks for how bouncy it is for the air dam hitting the 60' timers.
The 2-step does help for cutting lights, and racing in any heads-up class it is a must. But I think I was actually more consistent WITHOUT it for 60s - here’s why. With the 2-step you hold it WOT, then let off the clutch. That’s better for cutting lights racing on a pro tree, heads up stuff. But without the 2-step I would take my time more. For easy TnT passes, roll in last and to don’t try to cut a light, even sit there some times. And you bring the rpms to 4500-5500 or whatever. To do that clutch pushed in you only need to be at very little throttle. Stock 75mm or a 90+ TB when you think about it its maybe 1/4 throttle, maybe 1/2, nowhere near WOT. It’s a lot quieter and smoother. So you’re way better at letting the clutch out slower and smoother. You can hear and feel the car and the tires better and make the natural adjustments in "launching". AND you’re not doing this at WOT so you’re starting to let the clutch out with a LOT less power. Not sure about this but I bet a 415whp cam only car at whatever.. 1/2 throttle, at 5K making 50-75 less hp then WOT 6500. So even when your not "on the 2step" and the normal launch way you do it. You right foot has 50-75 hp to adding you do smoothly not even thinking about it, 1-3 secs about you leave.
On the 2step its... clutch in, WOT...(rev) waiting to leave …(4700,4750,4700,4750)... "Grrrrr,Nn,Nn,Nn,Nn" BAM! +75 hp the instant you get off the clutch switch, WHILE you (think) your doing a good job and letting the clutch out smooth and progressive. Most likely, you’re not.
***************** Studderin #28 – end unauthorized edit *******************
-Gary Smith, Berkeley, CA
***************** Studderin #28 – unauthorized edit *******************
I think you have 4.30 gears? I ran 4.30s in 2008-10 and on 28 slicks went 1.28x 60s FYI. Another thing is I don't think you need to trim the bumper at all to run the 28 radials, they don't grow like a bias tire. So you would just have to center the rear end and it should be fine to run 275/60/15s. Can someone correct me on that? But a bias-ply is gonna be a lot better. I’d look at Hoosier QTPs for street driving and track; that's about the best tire you’ll find for that. I would get them in 28' and trim the car for them. They will grow but thats gonna be better for you to spray too. I think you would get the 28x11.5 - thats the size for a 28 x 10wide tread. Going to that tire will help you a lot.
Or get better DA shocks and spend alot of time getting everything to work on DRs. I don't know all about DRs but noticed the window is super small for them liking the track. For DRs you need DA shock, and have a 2-click each way shock window for track temp. I don’t know how to adjust the shocks for that, but noticed they need adjustment if it gets a little warmer. And at night when it gets cold, they want a different psi, and shock adjustment. But with 28 slicks the sidewall just works with all of that. Slicks are less sensitive than DRs. People just don't know how much till they start running DRs a lot.
ETdrags (bias-ply slicks) you can keep them the same PSI, same shock adjustment, everything from morning to night. Do your 1st burnout good, then it really doesn’t matter for traction adjustment. If anything I only change the tire PSI (add) to get some more wheel spin. And change the front shocks for how bouncy it is for the air dam hitting the 60' timers.
The 2-step does help for cutting lights, and racing in any heads-up class it is a must. But I think I was actually more consistent WITHOUT it for 60s - here’s why. With the 2-step you hold it WOT, then let off the clutch. That’s better for cutting lights racing on a pro tree, heads up stuff. But without the 2-step I would take my time more. For easy TnT passes, roll in last and to don’t try to cut a light, even sit there some times. And you bring the rpms to 4500-5500 or whatever. To do that clutch pushed in you only need to be at very little throttle. Stock 75mm or a 90+ TB when you think about it its maybe 1/4 throttle, maybe 1/2, nowhere near WOT. It’s a lot quieter and smoother. So you’re way better at letting the clutch out slower and smoother. You can hear and feel the car and the tires better and make the natural adjustments in "launching". AND you’re not doing this at WOT so you’re starting to let the clutch out with a LOT less power. Not sure about this but I bet a 415whp cam only car at whatever.. 1/2 throttle, at 5K making 50-75 less hp then WOT 6500. So even when your not "on the 2step" and the normal launch way you do it. You right foot has 50-75 hp to adding you do smoothly not even thinking about it, 1-3 secs about you leave.
On the 2step its... clutch in, WOT...(rev) waiting to leave …(4700,4750,4700,4750)... "Grrrrr,Nn,Nn,Nn,Nn" BAM! +75 hp the instant you get off the clutch switch, WHILE you (think) your doing a good job and letting the clutch out smooth and progressive. Most likely, you’re not.
***************** Studderin #28 – end unauthorized edit *******************
Last edited by Gary Z; 08-14-2012 at 09:38 PM.
08-14-2012, 09:44 PM
#39
Ive Call MT everytime before I buy tires to check n make sure the tire im looking into is right for my set up, This is what they say everytime and there always right dead on....
1. A M6 Car, Radial ET Street w a Stick Car wont wrk (Keep in mind this may just be on there Brand) Always run a Full Slick. ( I prefer a stiff side wall slick)
2. For a Auto Car, even w a Trans Brake you can run either or. Ive Run a full slick and a Radial, currently in my sig pic Im running there NEW Pro Et Radial and Im telling ya it hits just as hard if not harder than a ful slick.
Id always call what ever brand of tires your thinking about running and chck w them before buying.
1. A M6 Car, Radial ET Street w a Stick Car wont wrk (Keep in mind this may just be on there Brand) Always run a Full Slick. ( I prefer a stiff side wall slick)
2. For a Auto Car, even w a Trans Brake you can run either or. Ive Run a full slick and a Radial, currently in my sig pic Im running there NEW Pro Et Radial and Im telling ya it hits just as hard if not harder than a ful slick.
Id always call what ever brand of tires your thinking about running and chck w them before buying.
08-16-2012, 03:47 PM
#40
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Im currently running 26x10x15S MT ET Drags. Ive tried several other tires and these just work for my M6 car. I leave at 5800-6000 and getting consistant low 1.5x 60'.