Keep getting different answers from Strange on my drag brakes
#1
Keep getting different answers from Strange on my drag brakes
I have the 3rd gen Strange brakes on my 98 Z28. Other than these brakes, my entire braking system is stock (ABS is there but thanks to lightweight spindles, no longer connected). I bed the brakes with no issues, then next day I had to make a quick deceleration from 65-35 and they warped. Strange first said it was a proportioning valve. Then they said it was my stock master cylinder.
I only drove the car for a few miles and they said that was my issue. I see on here people drive them all the time on the street. What are you doing so that you don't run into issues with them? I'm only looking for maybe 500 miles a year on the street with them and would like a straight answer from those using them.
Thanks very much,
Troy
I only drove the car for a few miles and they said that was my issue. I see on here people drive them all the time on the street. What are you doing so that you don't run into issues with them? I'm only looking for maybe 500 miles a year on the street with them and would like a straight answer from those using them.
Thanks very much,
Troy
#4
Hey - My sister lives in your town in Florida...nice!
The car weighs 3,280
I don't mind swapping rotors for street, but I didn't think I'd need to replace the master cylinder. Then another guy said it's the proportioning valve under the car, there is none other than ABS (which is not connected) that I'm aware of.
The car weighs 3,280
I don't mind swapping rotors for street, but I didn't think I'd need to replace the master cylinder. Then another guy said it's the proportioning valve under the car, there is none other than ABS (which is not connected) that I'm aware of.
#5
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You are driving on drag race designed components on the street... plain and simple. If you warped the rotors from something that isn't normal for that style of a braking system then you may consider just going back to stock. Proportioning valve, master, line sizes, whatever... you are not doing what it was designed for no matter who's done what with the same stuff.
The drag race brake system is designed to be used with their master cylinder(s) and brakes on all 4 corners. Proportioning or residual valved are usually not needed in most cases unless there is a huge difference in weight bias or tire sizes. The Sportsman kit(solid machined rotor instead of forged/slotted) will not help your situation any more to make it worth swapping rotors.
The drag race brake system is designed to be used with their master cylinder(s) and brakes on all 4 corners. Proportioning or residual valved are usually not needed in most cases unless there is a huge difference in weight bias or tire sizes. The Sportsman kit(solid machined rotor instead of forged/slotted) will not help your situation any more to make it worth swapping rotors.
#6
Thanks Eric. I think you're right. I keep trying to walk that fine line of getting the best time for the track with still wanting to keep it as the occasional street car. I think these brakes may have pushed me past the point of no return if they are going to keep warping this easy.
#7
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Wanted to bump this up instead of starting a new thread. OP have you had any better luck with these?
I have strange brakes on all 4 corners also. Rear haven't been bad but they do have a bunch of heat spots on them. I added the fronts later and smoked them first time at the track. Massive vibration and bad hot spots. Called strange they said it was because power brakes. Swap to manual their manual master cyl. Haven't warped the new rotors yet but they smell after a run and already have hot spots on them. Proportioning valve is set 2 turns to the front (has around 13 turns IIRC). I have it set there just enough to hold the car on the line. After a run on shutdown I am on and off the brakes to help them stay cool. I baby these things and only trap 130mph and even use engine to help brake. My car is on the lighter side and our tracks have decent length shutdowns. What gives?!!?
I have strange brakes on all 4 corners also. Rear haven't been bad but they do have a bunch of heat spots on them. I added the fronts later and smoked them first time at the track. Massive vibration and bad hot spots. Called strange they said it was because power brakes. Swap to manual their manual master cyl. Haven't warped the new rotors yet but they smell after a run and already have hot spots on them. Proportioning valve is set 2 turns to the front (has around 13 turns IIRC). I have it set there just enough to hold the car on the line. After a run on shutdown I am on and off the brakes to help them stay cool. I baby these things and only trap 130mph and even use engine to help brake. My car is on the lighter side and our tracks have decent length shutdowns. What gives?!!?
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#8
Fellas I'm not sure what might be going on with your brakes because I know quite a few people with Strange drag brakes including ourselves. And we and they drive their cars everywhere, with no problems. You guys sure you don't have some colapsed rubber lines somewhere, holding the brakes enguaged or, did you make sure the caliper was mounted in the right spot in conjuction with the rotor? Just a couple suggestions to check. We got rid of everything stock and just used the strange master cylinder and braided lines to connect the calipers. No need for a proportioning valve. They work great. Hope you guys get it worked out. Best of Luck.
#9
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Got them on mine x4 and yeah you can smell them heating up but they work fine. Once the pedal starts getting less responsive I dont do anymore aggressive braking until I give them a chance to cool.
#10
Fellas I'm not sure what might be going on with your brakes because I know quite a few people with Strange drag brakes including ourselves. And we and they drive their cars everywhere, with no problems. You guys sure you don't have some colapsed rubber lines somewhere, holding the brakes enguaged or, did you make sure the caliper was mounted in the right spot in conjuction with the rotor? Just a couple suggestions to check. We got rid of everything stock and just used the strange master cylinder and braided lines to connect the calipers. No need for a proportioning valve. They work great. Hope you guys get it worked out. Best of Luck.
just a thought