Smaknu03

so, ive fianlly broke into the 11s, but i feel like there is more in the car. the car is a 00 camaro. mods are as follows. stock bottom end ls1, cam( 228/234 .624/.624 114lsa +4), ls6 intake, ported throttle body, longtubes, 3 inch y pipe dumped before the rear. (5 inch bullet muffler). its a 4l60e, but has been built with all kevlar and billet bands and what not. 4.10 gears in the rear, and a 100 wet shot. car dynoed at 462 to the ground

so where i believe that the problems are...
i think the tune is way on the safe side, it only made 370ish on motor.
i also think the stall is a but to blame, its only has a 2800 in it. it was in the car when i got it before the cam and other things were done. thinking its needs about 3500-4000 stall. im going to attach my time slip as well...

high n dry

iTrader: (18)

U need at least yank ss3600 stall!

Smaknu03

i was thinking atleast that, im just curious as to if this is part of the reason why im only cutting a 1.8 60ft

also, my a/f i feel is a little on the rich side, its like an 11.7-11.9 on the spray. and like a 12.9-13.3 on motor

HISS

iTrader: (52)

Give any of the vendors on here a call and have them spec a converter for your car, my personal choice is Circle D Specialties, but I really don't think you can go wrong with any of the sponsor/vendors on here.

Smaknu03

i was leaning towards circle d, ive heard nothing but good things about both them and yank

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Is the car full weight?

high n dry

iTrader: (18)

What tire n suspension u running?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

After looking at this again making 370 rwhp is not terribly off IMO. First you have an built auto with a stall and 4.10 gears...all that eats hp. Combine that with the fact that some dynos will read differently as well

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

You are leaving some on the table with that converter, but I am interested to see what suspension components you currently have. If we can get that 60' down in the 1.5/1.6 range where it should be for your power level then you will pick up .4-.5 on the big end.

Smaknu03

the car is full weight, minus the spare tire and jacks. the only suspension work done to the car are bmr lowering springs in the front, stock springs in the rear, and i removed the front sway bar.

as for tires im running a 305/50/18 nitto drag radial.

subframe connectors and some drag shocks were gonna be next on the list after the converter...

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

There are other components I would recommend for the same budget to make a more noticeable difference in performance. I would look more into doing Tubular rear LCA's and relocation brackets and a torque arm. This will reduce flex in the components transferring energy into the chassis and will make it launch harder and more consistently. Another thing to note is Nittos like to be HOT. So make sure you are rolling them pretty good on the burnout

Smaknu03

i will definatly look into those first then, along with the new converter. as of now i havnt had any problems with the car hooking, just seems kind of lazy out the hole. ill give you guys a call one once i get ready to order somethings.

Bowtiedford

iTrader: (9)

def work on getting the 60' down and you should be easily on the 7's, have you tried foot braking up on stall? and also just off idle to experiment to see what the car likes the best.

Smaknu03

i have experimented with both, currently it seems as if the car likes if i flash the converter rather than foot brake it. i know the stall i currently have is a big issue, i just really feel as if im making more than enough to be running low 11s. The car makes 462 to the tire.

Photochop

iTrader: (74)

Whats the car weigh? How much torque to the tire? Get the 60' down from a 1.8 to a 1.5 and you'd see 11.0s. With it hooking the mph will go up 1 maybe 2 also. A yank SS4000 would do you good.

Smaknu03

the car is pretty much full weight, minus the spare tire and jack. the car puts down 462 tq to the tire

Smaknu03