Post pics of your SJM ABS delete/LL install
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From: Dyess AFB, TX
Post pics of your SJM ABS delete/LL install I'm having trouble picturing exactly where these lines are supposed to be cut so I'm in need of some pics that will help me out. If I cut after the lines (where I keep the braided lines), I don't understand how they will snake around to reach the line lock line. From what I'm seeing, it looks like I'll have to cut the single conformed line coming from the LL pretty short, then somehow routing the braided lines to that fitting, but it just doesn't look like the braided lines will bend that much.
I'm just confusing the hell out of myself so I'm in desperate need of some pics!
Also, both wires coming from the LL are black and it says to ground the black one, so does it matter which one?
I'm just confusing the hell out of myself so I'm in desperate need of some pics!
Also, both wires coming from the LL are black and it says to ground the black one, so does it matter which one?
There should be a few pictures listed in the direction sheets. The wires...Whichever wire you use for positive, use the other for the negative. It doesn't matter since its a coil...thus the reason why they are both black:-).
The sample pictures should help. Shoot me an e-mail, I'll send you something that may help you more. I can help you also via phone and walk you through any step you may be confused a bit on. We mention the install as a variety of ways...the lines are pre-formed so that you don't use the braided lines. If you don't want to remove the braided lines (which can make it an easier install since you're working in a smaller area), you may leave them. It does make the install easier but not as clean.
Shoot me your phone number and I'll be happy to assist you.
The sample pictures should help. Shoot me an e-mail, I'll send you something that may help you more. I can help you also via phone and walk you through any step you may be confused a bit on. We mention the install as a variety of ways...the lines are pre-formed so that you don't use the braided lines. If you don't want to remove the braided lines (which can make it an easier install since you're working in a smaller area), you may leave them. It does make the install easier but not as clean.
Shoot me your phone number and I'll be happy to assist you.
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You can use a hack-saw blade also rather easily...as mentioned above, clean the cut with a file before you flare it.
Also, so that you don't forget, even though it mentions it in the directions MAKE SURE YOU SLIP THE INCLUDED FITTINGS ON THE TUBE BEFORE YOU FLARE IT :-).
Also, so that you don't forget, even though it mentions it in the directions MAKE SURE YOU SLIP THE INCLUDED FITTINGS ON THE TUBE BEFORE YOU FLARE IT :-).
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It is easier to leave the braided lines...not as clean though.
KP you've boogered up your lines quite a bit. Send me your information via e-mail (i'm terrible with the nicknames on the boards), I'll send you new lines if you like.
Steve
KP you've boogered up your lines quite a bit. Send me your information via e-mail (i'm terrible with the nicknames on the boards), I'll send you new lines if you like.
Steve
Originally Posted by steve10
It is easier to leave the braided lines...not as clean though.
KP you've boogered up your lines quite a bit. Send me your information via e-mail (i'm terrible with the nicknames on the boards), I'll send you new lines if you like.
Steve
KP you've boogered up your lines quite a bit. Send me your information via e-mail (i'm terrible with the nicknames on the boards), I'll send you new lines if you like.
Steve
I should do it the right way now that the motor is out of the car but I'm too lazy.. 
Originally Posted by flyinZ
I've been thinkin' about that kit, for some time now..How do the brakes feel after the install??
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From: Dyess AFB, TX
Everything is in and working, but there's one small problem. Whenever I press or release the momentary switch, I can hear a clicking noise in my speakers and some of my cluster lights dimly light up. Is there a short somewhere? I also have more brake pedal travel now than before but everything works fine, maybe I'll rebleed them later. Great product!
Brake pedal travel or any other normal braking feeling should not change one bit. It sounds like you may have air in your system.
It also sounds like you have something wired incorrectly. Make sure you overview the enclosed schematic diagram for quick reference to connections.
Call me if you need help, I'll be happy to help you.
Steve
It also sounds like you have something wired incorrectly. Make sure you overview the enclosed schematic diagram for quick reference to connections.
Call me if you need help, I'll be happy to help you.
Steve
Steve, I already have a SLP line lock, could your ABS delete be used with that? Lemme know if I have this right... the line coming from teh master cyl that goes to the lone lock, will then T after the LL solenoid to the front brakes, and the line off the master cyl that goes to the rear brakes goes thru the proportioning valve, and then T's to the rear brake lines correct? would it be easier to redo the rear brake line to a single and T it off in the back of the car, rather then having 2 seperate lines to at go to the back of the car? or, could I just run a single line from the proportioning valve to one of the rear brake lines, remove the other, and put a T end on it in the back of the car to go to both sides? I'm planning on doing a aerospace drag brake conversion eventually, just trying to get a better understanding on how exactly it's gonna work, and what I have to do.
The neverending list plan list of mods LOL.
The neverending list plan list of mods LOL.
Originally Posted by steve10
Brakes will not feel one bit different. The ONLY time ABS is ever used is when you are locking brakes...other then that, you're not using it at all. The proportioning valve enables you to fine tune your brake bias front/rear setting.
Thanks,
Lou