Post pics of your SJM ABS delete/LL install
02-08-2006, 08:31 PM
#42
Many methods.
Pressure bleed using a diagram container, gravity bleed, 2 person method, using a mid-vac, earl bleeder screws work pretty good if you don't have any of the above tools or friends to help.
Pressure bleed using a diagram container, gravity bleed, 2 person method, using a mid-vac, earl bleeder screws work pretty good if you don't have any of the above tools or friends to help.
04-28-2006, 01:52 PM
#44
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Ive been looking into deleting only my TCS system for a little bit, but after reading this post and seeing the LS1 car pics without the ABS im leaning toward deleting all of it. The TCS stuff is just always in the way with my ProCharger setup, hence why I wanted to delete it, but there would be WAAAAYYY more room without the ABS as well.
Does your 4channel ABS delete kit for 96-97 cars also delete the TCS/ASR modulator that normally sits below the ABS modulator?
If so, are there any electrical/BCM issues other than the lights on the dash?
I know the TCS features that concern the PCM can simply be turned off with LT1edit, but I always thought it was a BCM that actually controlled the ABS/TCS systems. I guess my only concern with the BCM is the Theft deterrent-Fuel disable signal to the pcm.
>EDIT<
I almost forgot, My TCS/ASR brake modulator has already been relocated to the pocket behind my headlight. (Would sit next to the factory air box if it would fit back in there.) I used the "ASR relocation kit" that Caroll Supercharging used to sell. A company called Blower Worx bought them out but still produces/sells the kits.
Thanks in advance
Does your 4channel ABS delete kit for 96-97 cars also delete the TCS/ASR modulator that normally sits below the ABS modulator?
If so, are there any electrical/BCM issues other than the lights on the dash?
I know the TCS features that concern the PCM can simply be turned off with LT1edit, but I always thought it was a BCM that actually controlled the ABS/TCS systems. I guess my only concern with the BCM is the Theft deterrent-Fuel disable signal to the pcm.
>EDIT<
I almost forgot, My TCS/ASR brake modulator has already been relocated to the pocket behind my headlight. (Would sit next to the factory air box if it would fit back in there.) I used the "ASR relocation kit" that Caroll Supercharging used to sell. A company called Blower Worx bought them out but still produces/sells the kits.
Thanks in advance
04-30-2006, 10:04 AM
#47
Traction control would be eliminated as well....pretty useless in our cars isn't it?
...none of these options work out well in a performance based car most folks race on the drag or race track. With the prices of gas, daily driving these cars as your primary car becomes less attractive every day.
I tell folks all the time..my car is no longer referred to the 800 hp monster, it is the 4-6 mpg gas hog.
...none of these options work out well in a performance based car most folks race on the drag or race track. With the prices of gas, daily driving these cars as your primary car becomes less attractive every day.
I tell folks all the time..my car is no longer referred to the 800 hp monster, it is the 4-6 mpg gas hog.
05-01-2006, 12:45 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
Traction control would be eliminated as well....pretty useless in our cars isn't it?
I tell folks all the time..my car is no longer referred to the 800 hp monster, it is the 4-6 mpg gas hog.
I tell folks all the time..my car is no longer referred to the 800 hp monster, it is the 4-6 mpg gas hog.
To top it off, I dont even know if my ABS works. Ive never 'Used it' at all, and dont plan to so thats a no-brainer now.
Wouldnt actually removing all the hardware including the BCM controls be the correct way to deal with the dash lights? Call me a gluton-for-punishment, but I think Id rather do the extra work of making sure the PCM and BCM do not activate lights, rather than simply removing the lights themselves.
I guess I just like to work too much
Steve, thanks for all the valuable info. As soon as I get this timing cover deal straightened out, I'll be getting with you to order my 96-97 4-channel kit.
05-01-2006, 09:57 PM
#49
fire,
Not going into the dash is always the best route...LS1 dash electrical system doesn't allow to easily shut off the lamp by modifying a wire that leads to the lamp. LT1 is a bit different...we do have suggested directions for 3 ch. LT1 setups included in the kit...
Not going into the dash is always the best route...LS1 dash electrical system doesn't allow to easily shut off the lamp by modifying a wire that leads to the lamp. LT1 is a bit different...we do have suggested directions for 3 ch. LT1 setups included in the kit...
05-02-2006, 02:11 PM
#50
when removing the abs all together.. what else needs to be removed from the vehicle besides the abs unit up front. id like to take it ALL out and not just cut wires. anything to remove at the wheels under dash and so forth. i just got my kit from sjm yesterday and will start working on it today. motor is almost out. just the short block sitting in there.
Last edited by SVC707; 05-02-2006 at 02:56 PM.
05-02-2006, 02:55 PM
#51
SVC,
Not sure of your user name, so I can't see if you have an LS1 or LT1. If you have an LT1, the ABS computer under your drivers kick panel can be removed.
Taking out all the wires will reap the best weight removal...not to mention get rid of a the thick loom present from the wires. You'll have to just trace them back to remove them...just follow them in the looms...too difficult to try and explain this one. If you have traction control, you can completly remove the whole traction control module. There will be a GM throttle cable you'll need from GM (non TCS cars)...this part number should be listed as well.
If you need additional assistance, feel free to call or e-mail me directly. I can walk you through it.
Steve
Not sure of your user name, so I can't see if you have an LS1 or LT1. If you have an LT1, the ABS computer under your drivers kick panel can be removed.
Taking out all the wires will reap the best weight removal...not to mention get rid of a the thick loom present from the wires. You'll have to just trace them back to remove them...just follow them in the looms...too difficult to try and explain this one. If you have traction control, you can completly remove the whole traction control module. There will be a GM throttle cable you'll need from GM (non TCS cars)...this part number should be listed as well.
If you need additional assistance, feel free to call or e-mail me directly. I can walk you through it.
Steve
01-25-2007, 09:44 PM
#53
so if I take the ABS off I have to take the TCS off too? thats fine I didnt like it anyway!! now are their any advantages to removing all this or is it just for clean up and weight purpous(spelling?) Im interested becouse I have had the ABS problems with slicks and front runners alot the car is for the most part just a weekend/track toy with a little DD
01-25-2007, 10:26 PM
#54
Originally Posted by Ego Killer
so if I take the ABS off I have to take the TCS off too? thats fine I didnt like it anyway!! now are their any advantages to removing all this or is it just for clean up and weight purpous(spelling?) Im interested becouse I have had the ABS problems with slicks and front runners alot the car is for the most part just a weekend/track toy with a little DD
1) weight removal
2) better air flow for engine cooling
3) enables you run turbo/sc setups much easier
4) easier control with various tire combo's
5) removes additional cost/hassles with troubleshooting ABS/TCS
6) lowers cost of aftermarket rear-axle assemblies
01-27-2007, 02:22 AM
#55
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Kind of a related question since I'm doing my brakes and brake lines right now (Thanks for the flare kit Steve) so from the pictures I'm seeing that the proportioning valve only connects to the rear brakes? and you reduce the line pressure on just the rears to avoid overpowering the front or so it's not 50/50 brake bias all the time????
Just wondering cause i'm probably going to hold off on connecting my rear brake line till i get the proportioning valve.....
Just wondering cause i'm probably going to hold off on connecting my rear brake line till i get the proportioning valve.....
01-29-2007, 01:33 PM
#58
Originally Posted by OutlawZ
sweet thanks...... i guess the fronts get 100% line pressure all the time and you just reduce the backs to adjust bias..... cool.....
I'd advise the use of the valve so you can fine-tune your brake bias. Without it, the rear has a tendancy to lock up before the fronts due to weight proportioning, weight transfer and other variables.
Normally, the ABS system controls your braking system...obviously when it is removed, there is no computer controllability. For the folks thinking "well its better to keep it on the car", if your ABS is deactivated, not working, or thinking it still is using the OEM diameter wheels when your are not...you have no feedback, or for incorrect size tires not work properly thus one of the reasons why your ABS activates when you don't want it to.
01-30-2007, 11:20 AM
#59
Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Here's how I did mine. Don't be afraid to do alittle bending.
And the other photos that show two rear lines and two front lines are four channel? (A car with TCS and ABS)
