Post pics of your SJM ABS delete/LL install
#21
JLWS6,
The SLP line lock solenoid will work with our kit. The kits are sold in different configurations for the folks whom already have one of our LL kits, SLP kits or a Hurst kit. Those kits range in pricing from 139.99-159.99 depending if you need a flaring tool or not. This kits are configured for both 4 channel and 3 channel cars. No need to redue all lines.
Rufretic,
In the back of the direction sheet, there is a guide for adjustments with a variety of symptoms and how to adjust the valve. Due to weight transfer, car load etc, line pressure, without the use of a proportioning valve brake pressures will be equalized throughout the brake lines. This can put too much pressure on the rear brakes. The rear breaks will have a tendency to lock first. If anyone has ever played around in a parking lot spinning around on snow or wet ground, they know the easiest way is to put the emergency brake on allowing the rear brakes to lock. If you don’t have any way to adjust the pressure by the use of a valve…. making a turn while applying brakes especially on wet surfaces can have unexpected results putting your car into a hazardous spin easily.
This is what you’re trying to avoid by using the valve. The valve allows you to decrease line pressures up to ~60%. The optimum setup is to have all four wheels lock at the same time. This will give the best results for stopping distances and control. You’re trying to take advantage of ALL four wheels to stop you. Once you start skidding on fronts or rears, static friction is overcome by kinetic friction takes place which result in longer stopping distances. I feel testing and adjusting this can be done on a wet surface easily. If you change tires, this will also alter your bias…depending on your setup, adjustments will not be equal from car to car…it is something that needs to be tested and adjusted accordingly.
Good luck guys!
Steve
The SLP line lock solenoid will work with our kit. The kits are sold in different configurations for the folks whom already have one of our LL kits, SLP kits or a Hurst kit. Those kits range in pricing from 139.99-159.99 depending if you need a flaring tool or not. This kits are configured for both 4 channel and 3 channel cars. No need to redue all lines.
Rufretic,
In the back of the direction sheet, there is a guide for adjustments with a variety of symptoms and how to adjust the valve. Due to weight transfer, car load etc, line pressure, without the use of a proportioning valve brake pressures will be equalized throughout the brake lines. This can put too much pressure on the rear brakes. The rear breaks will have a tendency to lock first. If anyone has ever played around in a parking lot spinning around on snow or wet ground, they know the easiest way is to put the emergency brake on allowing the rear brakes to lock. If you don’t have any way to adjust the pressure by the use of a valve…. making a turn while applying brakes especially on wet surfaces can have unexpected results putting your car into a hazardous spin easily.
This is what you’re trying to avoid by using the valve. The valve allows you to decrease line pressures up to ~60%. The optimum setup is to have all four wheels lock at the same time. This will give the best results for stopping distances and control. You’re trying to take advantage of ALL four wheels to stop you. Once you start skidding on fronts or rears, static friction is overcome by kinetic friction takes place which result in longer stopping distances. I feel testing and adjusting this can be done on a wet surface easily. If you change tires, this will also alter your bias…depending on your setup, adjustments will not be equal from car to car…it is something that needs to be tested and adjusted accordingly.
Good luck guys!
Steve
#23
Originally Posted by 11SECSS
possability of a GP anytime soon.
Steve
#25
Originally Posted by xssive
What are you guys doing with the huge abs harness when you remove the module?
Also, are these fittings available in something other than brass?
Also, are these fittings available in something other than brass?
With the kit the way it is designed, we have the brass fittings going to the back...you don't use the braided lines...when you install it this way, the brass is far down and out of the way. Putting the connectors in front of the braided lines makes them stick out a bit more.
Steve
#28
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Originally Posted by White.Lightning
I looked on the website at the ABS delete and line lock kit. Looks/sounds like a good deal but I am weary of deleting the ABS for safety reasons since this car will be driven on the street?
Any comments/input?
Thanks
Andy
Any comments/input?
Thanks
Andy
#29
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Originally Posted by steve10
You can cut off the big mess of connectors (don't forget to remove fuse)! Better yet, remove all the wiring associated with it...it will drop a few lbs more.
With the kit the way it is designed, we have the brass fittings going to the back...you don't use the braided lines...when you install it this way, the brass is far down and out of the way. Putting the connectors in front of the braided lines makes them stick out a bit more.
Steve
With the kit the way it is designed, we have the brass fittings going to the back...you don't use the braided lines...when you install it this way, the brass is far down and out of the way. Putting the connectors in front of the braided lines makes them stick out a bit more.
Steve
thanks,
Tyler
#30
Originally Posted by White.Lightning
I looked on the website at the ABS delete and line lock kit. Looks/sounds like a good deal but I am weary of deleting the ABS for safety reasons since this car will be driven on the street?
Any comments/input?
Thanks
Andy
Any comments/input?
Thanks
Andy
Concerns of braking differences...first, let me ask you, Have you ever used ABS before? The ONLY time you've used it is IF you've applied your brakes hard and started slipping...and felt your brakes pulse.
ABS is ONLY on when you feel pulsing in your brakes during hard stopping. IF you've never felt your brake pedal pulse THEN you've NEVER used ABS in your car. During the times you do not feel pulsing...they way your brakes feel....IF you removed ABS, your braking feeling would not change! Actually, since you're putting on an adjustable proportioning valve with the kit, you now have the ability to fine tune your brake bias....this is important especially when you start changing to different tires.
ABS is quite troublesome for any of you road racers or drag racers. It is also more expensive to add this "feature" to a rear-end as an option....the whole unit also drops quite a bit of weight AND increases room in the engine bay by removal of it. As per phone conversation with a recent customer today, they commented $ for $, it is a better mod regarding weight loss. For obvious reasons removing both is best .
I see folks posting about troubleshooting ABS or TCS quite often...allot of effort to retain something that is quite useless in road racing or drag racing applications (which what most of us set up the f-body for!).
I'd say, if you want to use the car to get groceries with and drive to the shop to get your nails done everyday...then leave ABS alone...dont modify the car at all...better yet, get a car that gets better gas milage and use that car! Save the camaro as your lesure fun vehicle...and modify it to your hearts content. Though the other car may cost $$, you'll end up saving in gas alone in a few years...dam gas prices!!
#31
Originally Posted by ty_ty13
steve im getting close to pulling my motor and would like to do the ABS delete when its out... but id also like to know what im getting into... can you email me the directions?
thanks,
Tyler
thanks,
Tyler
Probably one of the concerns with removing ABS is some think that it changes the way the brakes work or feel...not true at all. The brakes work and feel just like they normally do during normal everyday braking.
Steve
#32
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Thanks for the replies Steve. As soon as some funds become available after I take care of some other small things on my car, I will call you to place an order. Looks nice in the engine bay and I planned on buying your line lock kit already. The ABS delete is an added treat.
Andy
Andy
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Originally Posted by steve10
We can get a kit out to you within a few days. Kits are in stock and orders are mailed out within 24 hours of ordering during business days. The kit is rather simple to install...without the motor..even easier!
Probably one of the concerns with removing ABS is some think that it changes the way the brakes work or feel...not true at all. The brakes work and feel just like they normally do during normal everyday braking.
Steve
Probably one of the concerns with removing ABS is some think that it changes the way the brakes work or feel...not true at all. The brakes work and feel just like they normally do during normal everyday braking.
Steve
instructions do come with it right? and pictures?
thanks again steve.
#34
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Originally Posted by ty_ty13
so with the motor out im looking at spending about an hour on the ABS delete kit?
instructions do come with it right? and pictures?
thanks again steve.
instructions do come with it right? and pictures?
thanks again steve.
#35
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I ordered my abs delete/line lock kit the end of last week and got it today. It is such a nice package. Everything you will need is there. No way I could bend the lines and them look that good. Thanks for putting out such a nice package. Hopefully I'll have time to put it on soon.
#37
LS1 cars, you need to remove the bulb in the dash, not too difficult, should take about 1-2 hours if you've never been in the dash before. There are just alot of hex-head screws to remove to get there. (all the same size so no worry about mixing them up).
LT1 3 channel setups, I have an easier fix that enables you to not have to go into the dash and remove the bulbs. Suggested directions with diagram is included in the kits.
Steve
LT1 3 channel setups, I have an easier fix that enables you to not have to go into the dash and remove the bulbs. Suggested directions with diagram is included in the kits.
Steve
#39
I've browsed through the selections for the different kits available and I have two questions:
(1) How do you determine whether you need a 3-channel or 4-channel kit?
(2) I see that some kits come without a line lock, and it has a notation at the bottom saying this kit is designed for people who already have _____ line lock kit. (example: a Hurst or SLP line lock) Is it absolutely necessary to have a line lock installed for this kit to work?
(1) How do you determine whether you need a 3-channel or 4-channel kit?
(2) I see that some kits come without a line lock, and it has a notation at the bottom saying this kit is designed for people who already have _____ line lock kit. (example: a Hurst or SLP line lock) Is it absolutely necessary to have a line lock installed for this kit to work?
#40
Originally Posted by thesoundandthefury
I've browsed through the selections for the different kits available and I have two questions:
(1) How do you determine whether you need a 3-channel or 4-channel kit?
(2) I see that some kits come without a line lock, and it has a notation at the bottom saying this kit is designed for people who already have _____ line lock kit. (example: a Hurst or SLP line lock) Is it absolutely necessary to have a line lock installed for this kit to work?
(1) How do you determine whether you need a 3-channel or 4-channel kit?
(2) I see that some kits come without a line lock, and it has a notation at the bottom saying this kit is designed for people who already have _____ line lock kit. (example: a Hurst or SLP line lock) Is it absolutely necessary to have a line lock installed for this kit to work?
1) 3 channel if you do NOT have traction control is the easiest way to tell. If you have traction control, you have a four channel setup. You need to order the kit according to which brake system you currently have.
2) You need a line lock for our kits. We sell them without the line lock solenoid and electrical kits for the folks whom already have a line lock kit. This saves them from having to re-purchase something they already have.
IF you do not have a line lock kit, you'll quickly see that for the money that is costs i.e. B001 abs delete kits, having a line lock AND custom electrical kit is well worth the small extra price. If you do not want to use it, just attach the line lock solenoid in place and don't connect the electrical components. At least in the future, if you want to use it, it is there ready to go!
Hope this helps,
Steve