ls1ramair19

Alright so I just got the truck and the car trailor paid off so now its time to build the car. I have a 99 v6 firebird that I have been waiting to turn into an all out race car. Im really trying to make it a true ten 5 10.5 race car becuase I live in dallas and thats what the majority of people are running in. So heres were my ? come in, I want it to be a small block turbo car so I was think maybe of going with a 6.0 iron block and maybe a 100mm turbo but I have never heard of this combo on a car so I dont have much feedback on it. I want this car to be all race and no street so im looking to make around atleast 1200 hp. My second question is how much does the chassis work usally cost on these cars im looking to probaly get it mini tubbed and roll cage and a 4 link put in but its so hard on these cars to know what combo to run bcuase there are no many I can find or hear about. Ive got about 5000$ to go and I figured I would start with suspension I know about madman and hear he is one of the best I was thinking about trying david wolfe becuase that guy is so awesome with suspension its crazy. So if you have any advice or tips for me they would be appreciated. Or know of a site or someone I could talk to that has experince building these cars. I really want to build this car myself but I know my limits of what I am capable of doing also. Thanks again

DERTY

There are plenty of Iron and Aluminum block turbo cars around here. 1200 HP Is a little on the low end of what you can achieve with that size turbo and a well built engine.

As far as the chassis, the sky is the limit on cost. I thought that true 10.5 was a stock suspension class though. So you can avoid the 4 link all together. Getting a 25.5 cage in the car is going to be your largest cost. If you're capable of doing it, that's great. But you may want to check with a chassis shop that has experience with building them because the rules are a bit hairy to interpret.

dynedta

iTrader: (4)

in other words call stenod lol

skipperbisket

iTrader: (4)

for him i would reccomend calling Wolfe since he is in Dallas and Wolfe's place is just a few miles away in Fort Worth.

NRC-Motorsports

not trying to burst your bubble,but
if your trying to make it a true 10.5 car 5000.00 wont get you far, also your car would have to be a min,of a 25-5 certed car[most likely though a 25-2 would be the way to go],espp with that engine, so that 5k will cover the cage[certed for 7.5 /10k for 25-2]give or take a few dollars, than theres the parts involved in a build like this,
even a mini tubbed car [stock suspended] like Wolfes with all the parts just involved in the rear and cage would cost alot, more, you really have to step back and see what your time frame is on this build, and at least make sure you have the money for [all the money] for which ever part you decide to do first,alot of projects do not get completed as the person did not know what they were trully getting into,reseach it good, but im going to say a 7.50 roller ,will cost upwards of 20k,at the least,Bob

skipperbisket

iTrader: (4)

i have a 7.50 roller i'll let go for $20k right now.... IN DFW

NRC-Motorsports

ill raise you a 25-2 roller good to 6.00,for 22,500.00 LOL,
but seriuosly that maybe another way to go is buy a car done,just make sure its certed for where you think you,ll be shooting for with that engine ,now and down the road. bob

skipperbisket

iTrader: (4)

Wolfe did my car at their old shop about this time last year. car is ready to run with the right motor/trans setup. already setup with motor plates for LSx motor.

DERTY

Not exactly, but he's more than welcome to. As I understood his question he had 5k to go. Honestly, that 5k is not going to go very far at all.

Like it was mentioned a 25.5 or a 25.2 cage is not going to be cheap. I wouldn't even attempt to build a turbo drag car to less than 25.2 these days if you ever think you'll go faster than 7.50. That happened to Wolfe when they DQ'd him for going faster than 7.50 on a drag radial. The cars are simply getting real fast real quick now.

Dan / Wolfe Race Craft

iTrader: (3)

Derty:

We never not DQ'd in St. Louis. They warned us, but never Dq'd us. They let us run the way we were. Just told us to keep it under 7.50 on Sunday. They then told us to run it out in the finals.

The other thing to look at to decide between a 25.2 and a 25.5 is the weight. Many classes have weight minimum, especially the Drag Radial. You can only be a max of 3200lbs with a 25.2, and a max of 3600lbs with 25.5.

That is one of the items that the organizations will have to address as these drag radial and small tire cars are getting faster. When we complete our 25.2 upgrade, we legally can not run the car above 3200lbs. But the Outlaw Drag Radial Classes have higher minimum wieghts for our combination at this time. When we ran the 7.40 we wieghted 3340lbs.

Take a look at the True Ten 5 rules and determine which class you want to run and that will dictate alot of what you will need to do.

DERTY

Glad to hear they let you run it out. Pit gossip when I was leaving was contrary to that. I'm sure you heard more than your fair share about it. But you can only continue going over 7.50 until someone says something that might not be as favorable.

Personally I think the chassis specs are wacked and it should be 10pt to 8.00, 25.5 7.99 to 7.00 and 25.2 for 6.99 to 6.00. That would have been far more aligned with the cars and weights that are competing. SFI Doesn't see it quite like that for whatever reason.

PS, Are you coming to Race Warz II to compete in Drag Radial?

AgFormula02

iTrader: (13)

PM Elite Hot Rod. mark is runningT TT5 currently in his TA.

Dan / Wolfe Race Craft

iTrader: (3)

I talked to one NHRA Chassis inspector that thinks it should be 7.20 somthing for 25.5, which would be cool. The 25.2 spec is just much more expensive for many people. They will have to do something with the weight issue at some time, but it will probably have to be the race organizers.

The main problem isn't SFI. It is the Pro Stock Chassis guys that are on the boards. They don't deal with or understand the small tire racing.

The car is currently torn down getting updated to 25.2, some larger tubs, and loosing some weight. As well as new motor is getting finished up. Also we are still finishing getting the new shop all together.

ls1ramair19

Thanks for the input guys alout of good stuff I didnt think about. First on the whole money situation yeah these days 5000 isnt enough to buy a good rearend. My options on cars were the 99 firebird or 67 camaro and in my opion the camaro would have been easier but the combo would not have been as wicked at the small block turbo combo. As far as running with tt5 I was thinking prob the extreme street class I wish I could run with KOTH but i know i would never be able to have the money for that so I dont mind tt5. I know the motor turbo combo is prob going to run around 15000 at the minium so im trying to set a table of what I should do first to get the project started. I thought I should get the car to were I want it as a roller and then start worring about the engine tranny and drivetrain. And as far as buying one, yeah its easier but I just prefer to be able to say that I built the car from the ground up I guess its a pride thing. Anyway thanks for the advice guys and keep it coming if you have anymore

68maro

dude the motor turbo combo is going to be well over 15,000. be looking to have a minimum of 50,000 laying around in expendable income if you want to put together and maintain a turbo smallblock car in 10.5 racing and thats being budget minded and probably not very competitive in the class.

68maro

also if you're starting the project now build it with the thought in mind of what it's going to take to be competitive 2 years from now. i know many people that have started projects for a heads up class only to find they can't qualify for the field once it's done. i have one buddy that bought an all aluminum fast times 598 with two hits on it and by the time his 25-2 10.5 car was up and running the class was beyond his reach.