Battery relocation
01-31-2007, 06:39 AM
#1
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Battery relocation so yeah im thinking of puttin my battery in the back where my spare tire was its gonna be a tight fit and all with my cage there but it will work. any1 got some pics and info on where they got there stuff and how ya did it? i saw one way just wanna see if there is any better ways. thanks for the help and info. 2000 camaro z28
01-31-2007, 10:43 AM
#2
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This is the only write up I have found. Battery Relocation
I'm interested in this also. So, if other people have more to add post up.
I'm interested in this also. So, if other people have more to add post up.
02-01-2007, 07:05 PM
#4
Moved from advanced tech section.
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2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 Pat G tuned.
LS1,LS2,LS3,LS7,LT1 Custom Camshaft Specialist For custom camshaft help press here.
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02-01-2007, 08:14 PM
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That is a good write up. It's not hard to do. The big issue is mounting the cutoff switch to be legal at the track. You will need to drill a hole in the back of the car. Also a sealed box is required if you do not have a bulkhead seperating the passenger compartment from the battery.
02-03-2007, 08:42 AM
#6
Nope... FWIW: The install shown in the link, is not legal, if the car is to be used at the track. [And is subject to tech inspection.]
Ground and power wires are suspect, in that the size is too small, and the grnd connect method, with a sheetmetal screw is a short term survivor....
Wiring with insufficient load capacity, and poor connection[s], can/will wreak havoc with the electronics on the car.
Lastly, the battery, and tray has to be bolted to the frame, and retained w/ 2 bolts, and a metal retainer bar.. the OEM style plastic gripper on the tray is a no no...
Maybe read here..www.madelectric.com
Ground and power wires are suspect, in that the size is too small, and the grnd connect method, with a sheetmetal screw is a short term survivor....
Wiring with insufficient load capacity, and poor connection[s], can/will wreak havoc with the electronics on the car.
Lastly, the battery, and tray has to be bolted to the frame, and retained w/ 2 bolts, and a metal retainer bar.. the OEM style plastic gripper on the tray is a no no...
Maybe read here..www.madelectric.com
02-20-2007, 02:23 PM
#7
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i didnt think the battery had to be inclosed in a box and yes i do know that i have to have a switch im thinking of mounting it to the antena bracket already in the car im also using the BMR battery relocator
Last edited by ricekilla2000; 02-20-2007 at 02:30 PM.
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02-21-2007, 08:27 AM
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your not goin to add 10 lbs of wire and cut off switch plus any weight that would be added hypothetically would be over the rear and will aid in the transfer why would you want dead weight up front over the nose of the car if you can relocate it with a kit from jegs or summit racing for like 100 bucks???? all of there setups will tell you right away if there nhra legal or what not my buddy put the cut off switch in the right rear tail light and passed tech at 66 so it must be ok to do so and that wayyou dont ahve to cut a hole in your car persay just the tail light!!!
02-21-2007, 11:17 AM
#12
Originally Posted by YellowMonster87
your not goin to add 10 lbs of wire and cut off switch plus any weight that would be added hypothetically would be over the rear and will aid in the transfer why would you want dead weight up front over the nose of the car if you can relocate it with a kit from jegs or summit racing for like 100 bucks???? all of there setups will tell you right away if there nhra legal or what not my buddy put the cut off switch in the right rear tail light and passed tech at 66 so it must be ok to do so and that wayyou dont ahve to cut a hole in your car persay just the tail light!!!
$100 bucks aint gonna do it. You'll need a sealed battery box, not the boat $20 box.
Wire kit $60 Onlt includes the Main power and Ground
Wire kit $50 to route the alternator back to the rear of the car (or $70 for a relay to kill the atlernator)
Sealed box $70 Minimum can go upto $110ish
Cutoff Switch $30 upto $100
Ryan K.
02-21-2007, 01:42 PM
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Per IHRA rules. NHRA is very similiar though....
"All batteries must be securely mounted. Batteries may not be
relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall
of .024-inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray)
required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall,
battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch-steel, .032-inch-aluminum,
or NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in
lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and
must be vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be
fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-
inch-diameter bolts. ("J" hooks prohibited or must have open end
welded shut.) Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory.
Strapping tape or Electrical zip ties prohibited. Stock unaltered battery
boxes / trays with OEM hold downs permitted only in stock location."
-Mark
"All batteries must be securely mounted. Batteries may not be
relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall
of .024-inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray)
required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall,
battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch-steel, .032-inch-aluminum,
or NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in
lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and
must be vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be
fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-
inch-diameter bolts. ("J" hooks prohibited or must have open end
welded shut.) Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory.
Strapping tape or Electrical zip ties prohibited. Stock unaltered battery
boxes / trays with OEM hold downs permitted only in stock location."
-Mark
02-21-2007, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan K
$100 bucks aint gonna do it. You'll need a sealed battery box, not the boat $20 box.
Wire kit $60 Onlt includes the Main power and Ground
Wire kit $50 to route the alternator back to the rear of the car (or $70 for a relay to kill the atlernator)
Sealed box $70 Minimum can go upto $110ish
Cutoff Switch $30 upto $100
Ryan K.
Wire kit $60 Onlt includes the Main power and Ground
Wire kit $50 to route the alternator back to the rear of the car (or $70 for a relay to kill the atlernator)
Sealed box $70 Minimum can go upto $110ish
Cutoff Switch $30 upto $100
Ryan K.
check out summit i was just researching this the other day for my own application and they had some very nice setups for relocating may not include the cutoff switch but they had everything else and they were on average 100-130 respectively
02-21-2007, 02:12 PM
#15
Originally Posted by YellowMonster87
check out summit i was just researching this the other day for my own application and they had some very nice setups for relocating may not include the cutoff switch but they had everything else and they were on average 100-130 respectively
For about $90 you can get Odyssey Hawker that weighs about 13lbs and be done w/ it. No cutting up anything.
02-21-2007, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by stealth71
Is that including the stuff you need to run the alternator through it too? The way I see it 10 ft of 0 gauge wire is a pound or so. So you probably need 3 sections if you run the alternator through it and don't use a relay. + box + brackets + switch. So maybe 5-7lbs.
For about $90 you can get Odyssey Hawker that weighs about 13lbs and be done w/ it. No cutting up anything.
For about $90 you can get Odyssey Hawker that weighs about 13lbs and be done w/ it. No cutting up anything.
02-21-2007, 06:05 PM
#20
I agree w/ everyone. I just don't see why relocating the battery has become such a fad. I understand if it is necessary because of ET, but how much of a difference will 11.5 lbs (the weight of my braille battery) move to the back of the car make.
So there are 2 situation for those that are not required by ET.
Say the batter weighs 35lbs stock.
1)Move it to the back add ~5lbs of wire, box, add cutoff switch.... So 35lbs moved to the back and 5lbs added to the car.
2)Get a 11.5lb battery, keep it in the front. No hassel, about the same cost and droped 23.5lbs. So 28.5lb total difference including the additional parts for relocation.
In this situation would either of these be better, the same, or worse? Please inform me on this. I think it will help everyone running over 9.99.
So there are 2 situation for those that are not required by ET.
Say the batter weighs 35lbs stock.
1)Move it to the back add ~5lbs of wire, box, add cutoff switch.... So 35lbs moved to the back and 5lbs added to the car.
2)Get a 11.5lb battery, keep it in the front. No hassel, about the same cost and droped 23.5lbs. So 28.5lb total difference including the additional parts for relocation.
In this situation would either of these be better, the same, or worse? Please inform me on this. I think it will help everyone running over 9.99.