Going to the track.......First time
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Lexington,MO
Posts: 1,230
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Going to the track.......First time
I plan on going to the track in March. I am running BFG drag radials size 275/40/17 I was wondering what PSI to start out with? Also what tips to use with them?
I am also a M6 car with a stock clutch (pervious owner replaced it with a stock replacement clutch) and a stock 10 bolt. What recommendations do you have on launch technique?
Also my suspension mods are in my sig. With adding a Spohn Street/strip roll bar (1inch diameter)
Also what kind of times do you predict? I am a good driver just have never been to a good prepped track, just on the street.
I am also a M6 car with a stock clutch (pervious owner replaced it with a stock replacement clutch) and a stock 10 bolt. What recommendations do you have on launch technique?
Also my suspension mods are in my sig. With adding a Spohn Street/strip roll bar (1inch diameter)
Also what kind of times do you predict? I am a good driver just have never been to a good prepped track, just on the street.
#2
I assume you have the stock gears in the rear? Don't bog the car. Parts will break. Leave at about 4500 rpm and release the clutch quickly. Don't slip the clutch on takeoff. If the car bogs, add more air pressure and or do less to no burnout. If tires spin more than one rotation on launch let air out and get tires hotter. If the car wheelhops, abandon these techniques and just take off like from a traffic light and roll into the gas pedal. Wheelhop WILL break parts, especially spider gears. Remember don't slip the clutch exessively off the line. Overheated cluthes stick and cause hard shifting for the run. This will lead to syncro failure. If clutch slips and burns when leaving at high rpm while car does not accelorate (this happened to me with my 55 Chevy when I got it), replace clutch with street/strip unit like Ram HDX or Centerforce dual friction.
When stuff doesn't work write, like wheelhop or slipping clutch or bogging car, write down the list (there may be more than one item on that list) so you can solve them. These problems must be solved immediately before even thinking of further power enhancements for your car to function well on the strip and take advantage of any mods. These corrections will pay off with the biggest increase in performance for the dollar out of anything you can do. The difference between 14.50 and 13.00 in my 55 Chevy with a stock cam only 350 was sorting out these issues. No other changes came close. Also, sorting out these basic problems will yield a consistent easy to race car that combined with plenty of seat time will bring the wins. Those F-body cars are fast already and I believe the biggest difference in ETs between them in naturally asparated form are their drivers and their ability to deal with the variables on raceday. It's better to become a skilled drag racer than to buy all the power adders and speed parts money can buy, and they money spent in searching for power could buy a whole lot of entry fees. There will always be people with more money than us no matter what we tell ourselves. What there will not be, are an many people with the drive to learn the skills and become fully competitive drivers.
When stuff doesn't work write, like wheelhop or slipping clutch or bogging car, write down the list (there may be more than one item on that list) so you can solve them. These problems must be solved immediately before even thinking of further power enhancements for your car to function well on the strip and take advantage of any mods. These corrections will pay off with the biggest increase in performance for the dollar out of anything you can do. The difference between 14.50 and 13.00 in my 55 Chevy with a stock cam only 350 was sorting out these issues. No other changes came close. Also, sorting out these basic problems will yield a consistent easy to race car that combined with plenty of seat time will bring the wins. Those F-body cars are fast already and I believe the biggest difference in ETs between them in naturally asparated form are their drivers and their ability to deal with the variables on raceday. It's better to become a skilled drag racer than to buy all the power adders and speed parts money can buy, and they money spent in searching for power could buy a whole lot of entry fees. There will always be people with more money than us no matter what we tell ourselves. What there will not be, are an many people with the drive to learn the skills and become fully competitive drivers.