ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

just how low are you guys getting these cars... and how low is TOO low for a good performing stock suspension car?

what is the ground clearance on the tip of the nose, under the front door jam and then at the tip of the rear bumper?

are you guys finding that you have to remove the fuel cell from above the rear to get them lowered where you want them?

thanks,

Tyler

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Mine is 7.5" under the front nose, the front fender is 26 5/8" at the center of the tire and the rear fender 26 3/4" at the center of the tire.

The side of the car is 5" off the ground on the bottom of the door in the front and 5 1/2" on the bottom of the door in the rear, I have the factory ground effects on my car.

The rear bumper is 12 1/2" off the ground, with the factory ground effects.

I still have the stock rear end in the car and have 275 60 15's in the back that tucks a little bit, and a 165 in the front with a bit of a gap.

When I go to the 30" tire I am going to lower it even more in the rear about 1 1/2".

I will most likely have to notch the gas tank when I put a S60 or 9" in the car.

One thing not mentioned is the rear shock length, as is now I only have a little over 2" of rear shock travel, so I will have to run a shorter rear shock.

I may run a taller front tire then lower it back to where it is in the front to get rid of the front tire gap and still keep some ground clearance.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

still on stock 10bolt... wowzers...
instead of notching my nasty nate fuel cell im thinking of putting a 3-4 gallon promod cell up front and ditching several pounts of hose and metal.... it wont be street driven any ways..

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

That would work, front mount the fuel cell. It's added weight to the front, but you'll still lose a lot of weight ditching the stock gas tank and all of the extra length in lines, plus front mount systems down have to fight gravity to feed the motor.

The stock rear end in it is just to hold the tires on until I get my new one, it has a broken ring gear anyways LOL.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

i figred i wasnt stayin long....

what kinda tubs are those you have that are 40""

what have you done to your suspension that you have to call it "stock style?"

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I have 40" aluminum tubs, I call it stock style suspension be cause it's not all mounted in the factory locations.

Here is my post on the tubs with photos I did.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/804528-mini-tubbing.html

I cut the shock area and bent and reformed it then drilled a new hole and welded a piece of 1/8" to tie it all together so it moved the shock in 1".

Then I used coil over springs and have the spring sitting in as much as possible so the lower mount on the rear end has to be moved in some.

The LCA are mounted in between the frame and factory bracket, which gain me a little over 2" of additional clearance over the offset LCA in the factory location.

I drilled a hole through the frame and mount it sliding a 6 1/2" bolt all the way through the frame to the factory bracket.

The metal isn't very thick and it is stronger and much easier to get the nut on and off than just drilling one side of the frame and cutting a hole on the bottom to access the nut.

I also welded a washer to the LCA side of the frame to give it a little more strength around the hole.

Then I cut my panhard bracket and boxed it in so it is flush with the frame which is 17" from the outer fender. Then I drilled a new hole up higher so with the car lowered on the 30" tire it will sit parallel with the ground.

I'll also be running a shorter panhard rod.

I cut the bracket and frame under the rear seat cover so the rear seat still fits also.