slow trap

iTrader: (22)

that is good power. i ran a similar combo years ago . tsp 228 cam, fast 90/90, milled tea 5.3 ported heads, 11:5 or so scr.i think it made 436 rwhp/403 tq through the stock rear. with

Formula934

iTrader: (4)

Any thoughts to how much my 8.8 with eaton trutrac gave up on the dyno? 10-15 rwhp maybe?

Also, exploring the realm of nitrous and prochargers (low boost w/ 11.1). My inclination is to go with the budget option of spray but up here in new england its $6 pound for nitrous. I would much rather have the on demand power of a procharger any time/anywhere and not have to reach back and open the bottle. Any experience with similar setups?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

I run a Trutrak but with the 10 bolt and also run a 150 shot. As far as dyno numbers I have no clue how much it will eat up, but you'll never know anyways unless you did a baseline prior with the exact same setup.

Nitrous is great if you don't need the power all the time, and for me I don't. 450 rwhp is plenty for me 99% of the time, and for less than a grand I have an extra 150 hp when needed

Formula934

iTrader: (4)

What does your setup consist of? Do you have an upgraded fuel pump?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Mine is just a simple NX shark nozzle wet kit. I have a nitrous and fuel pressure gauge, LNC-2000, blow down tube and bottle heater. I run the Racetronix 255 pump and hotwire kit along with 42lb injectors

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Learned that the hard way a few years back. Bought a kit at a show for my car, bottle came filled. Used said bottle up, went to get it filled and was like wtf?!?!?!?! I never even finished that second bottle. Waste of time and money.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

daily drivers are not max effort builds. They are economical, efficient, often silent, and conservative. If you mean you have an engine you want to push "to the bleeding edge" in a daily driver... that means you have a race car that you are daily driving.

here are some daily driver aspects:
Use an OEM idle speed(fuel efficiency), pre-intake valve injector spray (avoid overlap spray), a smallish camshaft (so that it sips fuel at idle and makes good torque at low speeds) with low lift (to max durability of the valvetrain) a low RPM limiter (if the engine can spin to 6k you set the limiter to 5500 unless racing for money or fame), an OEM bearing and clearance with factory recommended low weight synthetic oils (for good cold start reliability/long term longevity) Make sure you have overdrive and lockup and a reasonable rear gear/cruising RPM (common sense). Use a high quality PAPER FILTER (make a custom box to hold several diesel/other engine paper OEM style filters if necessary).

Next, the engine itself as a source of temperature needs evaluation. When you start the engine cold, everything is the same temp. What warms the engine is the combustion of gasoline: the fuel you pay for. This is where I draw the distinction between fuel, temperature rise, and $$. Fuel costs $$ and the goal of a daily driver (cough* usually) is to minimize fuel consumption, and therefore to minimize temperature loss (temperature that leaves the engine/exhaust is "lost" to the environment) If you COAT/WRAP/BLANKET the engine/exhaust to HOLD the temperature inside it, you will accomplish two things necessary for a 'daily driver'. The first is, you will minimize $$$ that leaks into the environment (remember: $$ -> Fuel -> temp rise -> leaves the engine = $$ leaving the engine). By HOLDING the temp rise inside the plumbing of the engine, you will improve its performance and make it more fuel efficient. The second thing we are doing is lowering the underhood/intake air temperature, which is a power improvement I am sure you already knew that. So a truely economical daily will have exhaust tubes you can touch with bare hands.

I have more but it becomes a damn book

Formula934

iTrader: (4)

I wouldnt really classify my build as a race car that im daily driving. Ive been there before with my 396 LT1 that was a race car. AFR 210cc heads, 13.1 comp, 1 7/8 headers, 248/254 duration cam, 108 LSA. True dual 3" exhaust, race mufflers etc etc. That was very "inefficient." All ive done with my current setup is to make it more efficient by making it a more efficient air pump. Its not loud by any means, its still catted and going into one single muffler. The cam is very tame by some standards 228/228 and the reasoning for that is to help out the ported heads. Im not trying to completly disagree with you but this really is a max effort daily driver build, it drives and sounds like stock until you get on it. Even with a supercharger its just increasing efficiency (Not so efficient when you get on it). I knew what i wanted with this build because i came from the race car scene with my last build and i wanted a daily driver this time around.