sschoeffler

iTrader: (24)

Ok guys, I need some help. I'm torn in between a nitrous or FI engine. I've already got a brand new JE -29cc pistons with rings and I bought a set of -8cc Wiseco pistons with brand new rings because I didnt know if I wanted to go with FI or nitrous. The JEs have been balanced with the rotating assembly and if I run the Wiseco's I will have to rebalance it, only $250 so no big deal. I'm building a 408 stroker and everything is forged, machine shop is waiting for me to tell him what final hone to put on the cylinder walls so the rings will seal. The block is an Lq4 iron block, L92 heads and an L76 intake, Morel lifters, Manley SS valves, valve bowls cleaned up a little bit. Havnt bought the cam yet because I dont know exactly how I am going to go. I have about a grand a month I can sink into this little project and have no problem slapping this MS3 cam into it until I get the rest of the FI setup bought and ready to put in, then I will get a blower cam if I decide to go the FI route. got a T-56 and the tranny is being rebuilt. I have bought everything you can buy to beef this tranny up from an online tranny parts store but they are not a sponser so I cant link em, but I got new input shaft, shift fork, billet keys, carbon fiber everything, bearings, the whole nine yards.

Now heres a little about me. This is my fun car, I have 2 other cars I take to work so I'm not real worried about gas mileage, however I do plan on going on the hot rod power tour and taking some trips in the TA and I dont want to be broken down on the side of the road, I want reliability. If I go nitrous, I will be using a 250 shot, but I'm saving the nitrous for the track and I might hit the track 1-2 times a month in the summer seasons, this is not a full out drag car. I'd like to hit 10s in the car and whether I go nitorus or FI I'm sure that will not be a problem

Now I'm afraid of having a car that is just unstreetable and by that classification I mean, hard to drive. I dont want so much horsepower thats its going to just be stupid fast on the street and not be able to hook up when some ***** is sitting next to me at a stop light. Again, I am wanting my car for fun, not for pro stocks or LSX shootouts.

This car is my dream car, always wanted a 98+ TA since I was 13 and here I am almost 28, I'm keeping this car for life. This is the fastest car I've ever owned, even in stock form, I upgraded to the LS6 intake and LS6 heads, couple here and theres but now I'm ready to join the big boys and have a bad *** toy. Please help me in making my decision. Thanks!

Stephen

Cobra Commander

iTrader: (12)

APS or TTi kit

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

a turbo system can give you very high horsepower and still be streetable just by opening the waste gate with your boost controller. but a turbo system will cost you more then spray.

good luck

Somebody09

How many ******* times do you need to post the same topic?!

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Nitrous..fairly easy install but still lots of wiring usually.
nitrous fairly cheap to buy but adds up as you add safety and other gadgets.
Nitrous goes empty usually at the worst time or you can run dual bottles.
Nitrous illegal in some places to use on the street.

FI turbo or super. Higher initial costs. Can be extensive installation. More mechanical than electrical.
No bottle to go empty.
Legal in many places.

I still like both..FI with small shots on top..best of both worlds.nitrous can spin up turbos really quick, supercool things and add extra power even above what turbos can max out at.

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

Nitrous will save u thousands in the end.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

i think its 100 bucks for 10 pound bottle around here . and you can go thru that really fast like think four 1/4 mile runs. So 20 bottles of spray could be 2000 bucks.And you do need extra stuff with spray..window switches or timing retards and you can go for fancy progressive controllers, there are purge kits, bottle openers,bottle warmers. You still need good fuel pump,colder plugs,bigger injectors on dry system, forged up engine at higher spray levels. upgrades to clutch, auto trans for sure. Rear end upgrades tires so you can hook etc.
Really don't see how it saves that much in the end at all over a reasonble FI setup.

candlelit

iTrader: (21)

I've debated that myself, as well as many others. What it comes down to is the availability of funds. Filling the bottle adds up in the longrun. But doing a FI setup is more of an at-once cost. I mean, you'll still spend a few bucks here and there after you're done doing the install, but power for power you'll still have to upgrade suspension/fueling either setup to get them moving. If you're going to keep the car forever, why not go FI? The power will always be there if you've got it properly setup. How would you feel if you don't have any juice left when you pull up to that idiot at the light? Plus a supercharger or turbo will get more attention if you like that.

Are you serious??? The guy is asking for comments on each setup, not for negative comments about administration. If he only asked one section the comments would be biased. It's all about strategic position, you get better results that way.

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

a 408 and a 100 shot should run 10s depending on how the car is setup and still be really tame. FI is awesome and expensive.....you need to ride in one of each.

longrange4u

iTrader: (2)

You ask this question in the FI section of the board? What answer do you expect? Its cool that you are asking questions about setups... but a Poll FI vs: Nitro???

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

Putting a poll "FI vs. Nitrous" in the FI section is just going to yield votes for FI. Who else would be in here?

I vote FI, I was debating nitrous a long time ago, but I wanted the power all the time. And as others have said, FI is more expensive initially, but you can also sinck alot of money into a nitrous setup too, not to mention refilling the bottle.

Read the sticky about the real cost of FI. Go figure about 10k for a kit, accessories, supporting mods, and install. I know because I just did it.

With nitrous you could consider dry, not likely for what you're wanting power wise though. Wet will be good, but you don't want to blow the tires off right? So mostly likely you would want a progressive or multi-stage direct port system. An instant 250 is going to blow all your traction. About the most costly nitrous setup you can get. Your talking more and more electronics, wiring, and refilling your bottle over and over. Nitrous is now high technology and very safe, but can still fail as an FI kit will too. Nitrous failures seem to be a bit more costly though and can wreak some serious havoc.

A well tuned and setup FI kit can last a long time though.

Sounds like you got your bottom end in order already. Might as well make good use of it and boost the hell out of it.

omore001

iTrader: (1)

I tried nitrous for a while, it was hella fun for the dollars per horsepower aspect. I did not enjoy refilling bottles or keeping an eye on bottle pressure. After about 50 bottles, I blew the intake manifold apart due to a backfire (150 wet shot). After putting in a new manifold and spraying a few more bottles, I got knock. This was my last experience with nitrous.

Since then I have picked up a 67mm STS turbo LS1 F-body. At just 5 lbs, it pulls harder and traps higher than the 150 nitrous shot. No turbo issues to report as of yet. The best thing about turbo is that the power is ALWAYS THERE and doesn't run out so long as you have gas in the car. I personally would never go back to nitrous, I have nothing against it, I just don't have the patience to deal with things like bottle refills, solenoid tests, etc.

If money is no object, turbo all day. If your tight on cash and still want to go fast, nitrous is your best friend.

extremetoy

iTrader: (17)

12psi is kinda like a 300 shot of nitrous and its progressive... 300 sounds like a huge shot of nitrous and 12psi doest sound so bad in my opinion

Jimmy P

iTrader: (177)

What does your budget look like? When its all said and done, a descent FI setup will cost you a good amount of money. If on a budget, can't go wrong with a nitrous kit.

t/a-Donnie

iTrader: (6)

Except for having to REFILL a nitrous bottle. Eventually, the FI pays for itself where as you'd keep paying for Nitrous. Also, driving around with highly explosive and flammable fuel right beside/behind you wouldn't be too fun in a wreck. lol. On the up side...you'd probably drive more safely.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

$10 a pound?

I used to pay $2.50 a pound.

I am an ex-nitrous guy. The up side is that you can build a very mild, quiet and streetable 408 with a 150 shot and go mid 10's pretty easily. The problem will only be if you want to go high 8's low 9's. That will require low 10's off the jug which makes for a louder, more radical setup. I was a low 9 sec true daily driver but was constantly battling the noise. I don't really like loud. Once you start getting into that power level on a non-race car setup (ie A/C, power everything, tunes, interior, etc) you have to use a big shot which is very abusive and tempermental.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

Somebody has been watching a little too much "The Fast and the Furious".

N2O is neither highly explosive or flammable as you put it. No Hazmat license needed. It is an oxidizer, supports combustion, and therefore releases oxygen causing fuel to be burned more rapidly.

It does exactly what forced induction would do, albeit chemically instead of mechanically.

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

..... None of the above.

sschoeffler

iTrader: (24)

Now this is the kind of info I like to hear

I got about 1000/month I can spend in the car.

The engine and tranny rebuild alone has cost me between 3-4k already

382ssz28

iTrader: (24)

I've run N20 since the early 80's. It was kind of difficult to dial as we had to trust the companies offering the stuff and we were the guinne pigs. I am a good mechanic, so it came easier to me. It was the ****! Today I have a few friends getting into turbos and I really like what I see. To properly set up N20, you will spend some money. The turbo is probably twice to two and a half times as much. In my opinion, turbo is the way to go. I could have built 10 turbo cars, (motors and turbo systems), for what I've spent on N20 over the last 28 years. No regrets.

With today's technology, a 1200HP car can be dialed in and be as docile as your grandma's Toyota, and get amazing mileage. Mighty Mouse runs 8.70's@160mph, and drove to and from the LSX Shootout about 1000 miles, I believe twice! That's over 1000HP to the wheels! Veee8 has just laid down 9.50's@150mph, just testing and I believe he will be deep in the 8 second zone when all is said and done. This is also over 1000HP and a driver.

N20 is a blast and initially not terribly expensive. Lots of toys to protect the engine. I always had a few bottles ready. This all brings the price up. Turbo is initially expensive, has protection devises, and is there at a moments notice, without the worry of "am I close to running out?".

I can't wait to start my own turbo project. I am collecting pieces and next year will be on the road. Good Luck with your choice!