1FasstWS6

iTrader: (3)

I have been doing alot of research with different builds. I have an 02 WS6 with 19k miles on her. I basically want a nice reliable forced induction car thats in the 600whp+ range that I really dont have to worry about even turning it on thinking something is going to break. So here are some ideas that were basically being tossed around.

Take my LS1 and make it a 383.

Patriot heads or Trick flow? With trickflows I would need R-Rockers valve cover spacers from what I hear, If I am wrong feel free to chime in.

The next step is to say go with an LS2 block and make the thing a 404-408 with the same heads etc..

This is where the fun part comes into play I have 3 different forced induction setups to go with which will obviously make my decision on a cam.

1st. Vortech Supercharger with front mount upgrade
2nd. Procharger D1SC with Frontmount setup
3rd. Aps Twin Turbo

I really dont want something that is going to be overkill as this thing is just a weekend cruiser that sees the track 2-3 times a year. Any help would be great! Thanks in advance.

airforcemanss

iTrader: (23)

jesus xmas! current mods,suspension,tires, budget cap????

1FasstWS6

iTrader: (3)

Forgot to give you a quick run of whats currently done. Has TTS Longtubes, Corsa catback, Vig 3200 Stall, Lid. I have 4x4 konis and Stranos going on hopefully the end of the month. I will be taking this build in 2 pieces which is heads and cam 1st and then the forced induction next summer. I will be having RPM transmissions more than likely and I already spoke with Strange on the Rearend.

I currently have TT2's with Pilots that will more than likely be destroyed.. So moving up to MT Drag Radials would be the next tire selection unless I snag my buddies Bogarts.

Price is around 5k for this year and a max of 10k next year. I might be able to squeeze the rearend in with the heads and cam this summer if all goes well. So I hope this helps a little more.

airforcemanss

iTrader: (23)

size of headers? you didn't list anything about suspension besides a handling suspension. talk too umi or bmr for a full adjustable suspension 2k right there. get a 9in rear end 3k-4k. if headers are 1 3/4 sell and get 1 7/8 another 1k right there. your already over your 5k budget this yr already. throw car on blocks wait til you get other 10k(u c where im going with this).

15k is not even close too the money your gonna need for the choices you've listed above.

do a lot of research and be absolutely sure of what route you want to go.
did you read the stickies???

a 408 build w/ 200 shot 10k. of course you can recoop money from stock setup.

others that are more knowledgable than i am will key in. i had to get brung back to reality when i first started off lol

airforcemanss

iTrader: (23)

i forgot a stall, buillt trans 3k-4k. im sure im missing others too lol

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

You got a stall, built trans for sure stock 4l60 will die a quick death. Rear end might survive for awhile not likely on et street radials but you did say you were looking at strange rear end.
You have same headers I used to have. Obviously if you want to keep the headers then you want to go ati . You can buy a decent cam now that will still work ok and some decent heads. You have good stall and for super get some 3.73 as nice overall gear.
I think 408 you will need d1sc.

Turbos of course you are now selling your headers. Cam choice might vary a bit from the super. Good heads are still good heads. And you still need built trans, and likely rearend.
Good driveshaft as well. Fuel system will start to cost at 600rwhp or so . Under that you can get buy with single pump and some 60s and stock lines, reg,rails. Around the 600 range nice to get twin pumps, bigger rails, lines, boost referenced reg. Although you could slide a bit with just the twin pumps and 60s.
Tuning of course needs to be in the budget. This stuff does add up fast I think have around 80k into my car now counting 40k price of car brand new up here in canada we get hosed.
So 40k or so in current mods. 10k for 408, 5500 for aps kit when it first came out . New kmember is required with aps kit not d1. I got new hooker ypipe also required if go with stock catback and aps. I went twin pump full meal deal fuel system but am targeting around 1000rwhp max pretty far from 600rwhp. Aps or ati can easily get you to 600rwhp.
I went to 4l80e but of course going again for more power. Built 4l60 should be already but 4l80 would be better. Boost is addictive and you always want more and especially if you have forged engine. So to get back to numbers..another 5000 or more into trans and stall and misc. another 3000 or so into rear end and good driveshaft. Have another grand or more into suspension control arms adjustable torque arm, shocks, .Wanted upgraded brakes so another grand or so there. Hptuners for 500 or whatever it was, over grand in gauges and boost controller,wide band. Getting alc injection system still.

So it does add up.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Oh and if you can't do everything add on a good amount for labor. I have a cheap mechanic that works for like tweny an hour but if you go to normal shop it could wind up costing a lot more . I have done some stuff myself and taken some stuff to actual shops.

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

I voted 383 w/ Procharger. If your goal is 600+RWHP, you don't need a 402 to do it. I'm making 625-650RWHP (depending on weather and the dyno) on a 346 with a D1-SC. The 383 would give you some more low-end grunt to compliment the boost on the top end. That is my future plan.

If you want reliable, worry-free power, I'd go with the Procharger. If you want more power potential, then I'd go with the APS kit.

NHRAMAN

iTrader: (1)

Ls2/procharger

airforcemanss

iTrader: (23)

i would call katech i just seen in the new sponsor section a 427 iron for 3500? and 4500 for aluminum.hmmm.. possibly a close to 600rwhp n/a around 11k-13k...

these guys^^^^ already been there done that. like above injectors,driveshaft,fuel pumps,etc... it keeps going.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

I'm not a big fan of the 383 cid idea. As already stated, you will quickly run out of cash before your project gets of the ground even on a $10K budget doing everything yourself. I'm pretty decent at doing things on the cheap so here is my advice.

1) decide whether you are going turbo, sc or nitrous. This is very important that you stick to this decision down the road or it will cost you time and money as you will end up buying stuff twice.
2) now that you have decided on your power adder you have to decide if you are going to buy the power adder first and risk blowing up the stock block and/or other supporting components or if you are going to forge the block and buy as much of the OTHER stuff as you can till you run out of money on this draw. Then buy the power adder with that money.

I chose to buy my power adder first (this time) and wing it until I have the cash to do the rest. As the cash comes in, I do sections of what I still need. I just did my fuel system. Next is a converter. Then rear. Then forged guts.

1FasstWS6

iTrader: (3)

Awesome, Thanks for the help so far. As of right now I am leaning towards the 404/408 route with a supercharger. I can wait a little longer and plan out the engine on how the 404/408 parts and pricing needed so i can focus on one thing first. If I do the engine first, I will then look into the trans/rearend and then finally throw the blower on there to top the car off. Keep your thoughts and Ideas coming this really helps stay focused on whats the next move.

LS1BLKSS

iTrader: (36)

383 with procharger

Blown427conv

iTrader: (1)

Sure are going nutso on a street only car. I'd go with the cheaper 383 engine build and either blower. You are gonna love it on the street and if you dont get a rear tire thats too sticky it will be very fun to drive and you won't break driveline parts. I'm running a 14-71 Blown 462 in a 69 GTO Judge with a shift kit only trans and 3k converter with a stock 10 bolt posi that lives just fine on the street even screwing around on deserted streets without breakage. It is de-tuned to around 850hp and all is well. VERY VERY fun to drive. It is for sure over-kill but I did start off with a small blower and move up over the years to what I have now and can NEVER use on the street, but it is tons of fun. In my opinion you should build a sturdy low compression 383 with either blower and good heads/cam and have fun. Then when you lose your mind after a year you can start stepping it up with everything else (trans/rear end). If you try to do it all at once you run the risk of never getting it done. (money,time, life events,etc.) Even a mild blower setup is tons-O-fun on the street.