98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

As the title says, I need help choosing the internals for the new motor that will be procharged.

I pulled the stock motor out of the car and tore it down. Now I just need some help deciding on which internals to build it back up with to help me meet my goals.

My goals are to push about 10-12 psi of boost through it with a Procharger D1SC.

Here's what I'm thinking so far (I'm looking for you guys to critique me here).

Stock LS1 block
Stock LS1 crank (Polished)
Callies Compstar H-Beam Rods
Weisco pistons (Not sure on the CC)
ARP main studs (Align hone of course)
Total Seal steel top ring set
ARP head studs
EPP blower cam
Patriot 6.0L heads (Again, not sure on the CC)
Thinking 9.5:1 Compression would be a good route

Anything else you guys can think of please chime in, or if you see any weaknesses with my thinking let me know, I'm open to suggestions!

Thanks

kdavis

iTrader: (14)

you might want to go with billit mains,

IT_SS

iTrader: (5)

If they're from Patriot, 227 cc intake runner, 70 cc exhaust runner, and 72 cc combustion chamber.

With those heads, you should be able rebuild the LS1 with forged internals that match stock specs and achieve a 9.*:1 CR

I'm in the same boat your in bro!

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Not really sure that's necessary. But I could be wrong.

Awesome man, thanks!

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

hell...my motor don't even have billet mains...will probably do that on the rebuild though as a safety precaution

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

The first version of the 348 cid in my Formula was basically what you posted, but I had Diamond pistons and 8:1 compression. I'd go at least 9:1. My 317's were around 70cc, had a basic port job, and bigger valves. Make sure you research what springs to run.

flynbludream

iTrader: (1)

What is your HP goal? Saying you want 10-12 lbs of boost means nothing. I went with -8.6 (?) cc pistons which comes out to about 9.5:1 CR. I also went with bone stock 72cc 317 truck heads with patriot gold springs. On my TT vette I am getting 600 RWHP at about 10 lbs of boost and 750 at about 15lbs of boost. I dont think full tilt heads are really worth the $ for a street driven car. Might want to invest in a meth kit for some added protection. My cam is a 225/225 .581/581 and you cant even tell there is much of a cam in it at all.

Josh@KY-Turbo

iTrader: (120)

Everything looks good from here. Should be a stout setup when finished. Dont worry about the billet mains unless you plan on going for broke at some point on the setup.

Reject

iTrader: (24)

you gonna assemble it yourself? everything looks good so far

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Alright cool, I had done quite a bit of research on the setup and this is what I came up with as being a sound setup, I just wanted to post up and get some last minute advice before I started ordering parts.

Yeah Reject, I'm going to be doing the build myself. I've done a few LSx's now and they've all run wonderfully. I just needed to make sure the components were the correct ones for my goals.

I don't really have a HP goal here. I really don't need one. I don't really care what kind of numbers it puts down. I want to be able to get through the quarter with a low 10 and from what I've seen, 10-12 lbs of boost is what I'll need to get there on a stock cubed ls1.

Anyways, thanks for all the input guys!

IT_SS

iTrader: (5)

with forged internals you can go beyond 10 PSI

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

I know. But I don't really want or need that much power. I am shooting for a reliable relatively hassel free low to mid 10 second car here. And I think that the motor that I'm building along with about 10 psi of boost should be a pretty safe bet.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Billet caps are definitely not needed for your goals. Way overkill.

Your parts list looks good. As stated, stock 6.0L heads are somewhere in the 71cc range. Assuming you are using GM MLS gaskets, a -4cc (flat top with valve reliefs) piston would get you in the 9.5:1 range.

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

you will also need a 255lph fuel pump

42lb injectors

better timing chain, preferably a dual roller

oil pump, melling 296 or something close to that

better push rods

new valve springs (patriot duals)

and don't forget to get the motor balanced

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

I would run dual walbro 255's or 340's and motron 60's. I think 42's might be pushing it on their duty cycle. I run dual 255's and motron 60's on a stock bottom end 346 with a D1 on 9psi (yes I know I'm playing with the devil lol)

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

I had planned on all of this as well, I just kind of assumed it was a given, so I didn't include it.

I'll be going with 60lb injectors though. I think the 42's will be pushing it, and I'll probably opt for dual pumps. The one thing you don't want to **** around with is fueling...

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Awesome man, thanks!

Another question though, which gasket would be better to use, the Cometic or just the graphite GM gasket?

IT_SS

iTrader: (5)

i don't mean to thread jack, but if I were running heads with 59cc combustion chambers, what gasket/piston will get me into the 9.*:1 CR area? or will that require me just getting the heads milled?

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

I prefer the GM MLS gaskets. Cheaper, and also seems that more people have better results with them. I am assuming this because I see less complaints from the GM gaskets than I do from cometics.

Look up pianoprodigy's DCR spreadsheet in the gen3 section and download it and you will get all your answers and more

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

GM mls gaskets here.