ls9 camshaft turbo build question
09-30-2010, 09:37 PM
#1
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ls9 camshaft turbo build question ok turbo guys, ive started on a new engine for my 67 ls1/t56. i have a new 5.3 block thats gonna be punched out to ls1 specs, stock crank, callies compstar hbeam rods, diamond flat top pistons with 2cc valve reliefs part number 11500(yes i know horrible choice for turbo pistons but i got em cheap and they are brand new in the box but if someone has some small dish pistons ill gladly trade and maybe give some boot or if anyone on here works for diamond id gladly send them to u in ur unopened box and pay the difference on a set) also have 317 heads.
i want to run the ls9 camshaft because im on a budget. and i was thinking of getting the 1.8 or 1.82 roller rockers to take my lift up to right at .600" lift. and was wondering if the pac springs that are rated for 650 lift would be acceptable for this setup because i dont want the valves to float because of heavier aftermarket rocker arms. does anyone know if those springs would work or if i need to get dual springs that are rated for 650/?
the specs for the ls9
.562"/.558" and 211*/230* @ 0.050"
after 1.82 rockers the lift is
.601/.597 if my math is correct anyway
i want to run the ls9 camshaft because im on a budget. and i was thinking of getting the 1.8 or 1.82 roller rockers to take my lift up to right at .600" lift. and was wondering if the pac springs that are rated for 650 lift would be acceptable for this setup because i dont want the valves to float because of heavier aftermarket rocker arms. does anyone know if those springs would work or if i need to get dual springs that are rated for 650/?
the specs for the ls9
.562"/.558" and 211*/230* @ 0.050"
after 1.82 rockers the lift is
.601/.597 if my math is correct anyway
10-01-2010, 02:41 PM
#5
plus youre gonna pay alot to have a 3.78 bore machined to 3.9
so i dont see the savings there.
plus a lot of metal will removed from the cylinder walls and that can comprimise the integrity of the block.
maybe it makes more sense to build a 6.0 block based engine with the rods u have now.
10-01-2010, 04:22 PM
#6
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I got the block for 100 bucks Its a new block. The machine shop is only charging me 450 to bore, hone, line hone, and deck the block and turn crank. So it's not to bad. 5.3 bored to 5.7 isn't that big of deal on cyl walls
10-01-2010, 04:44 PM
#7
machine work to final assembly. i wouldnt use in my forced induction build.
but perhaps it will work for you.
my engine is a 4.8/5.3 block build also. i plan on up to 25psi.
.060 is the most i would take any 4.8/5.3 block now for forced induction
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10-01-2010, 07:26 PM
#8
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i dont plan on that much boost i want to run about 550 to 600 rwhp. i want this engine to last me a while, and since my car only weighs 3100 lbs i think thats more than enough
10-01-2010, 07:30 PM
#9
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everything ive ever read says that even after u bore the 5.3 out to an ls1 that having an iron block ls1 is still stronger than a aluminum ls1. but who knows hopefully i can get out what i want and ill be happy, i just hope 550 to 600 isnt asking to much of my setup, would you go with arp mains? i know its good insurance but its 200 bucks for bolts and everyone has said stockers are good to around 700
10-02-2010, 05:33 PM
#10
everything ive ever read says that even after u bore the 5.3 out to an ls1 that having an iron block ls1 is still stronger than a aluminum ls1. but who knows hopefully i can get out what i want and ill be happy, i just hope 550 to 600 isnt asking to much of my setup, would you go with arp mains? i know its good insurance but its 200 bucks for bolts and everyone has said stockers are good to around 700
an engine i built for my uncles car has around 40k miles now and has dynoed 720 rw highest no. its not a drag race car. just a street car. but imo the machine work, assembly, bearings clearances and preparation are more important. the car has stock main bolts. with no problems. and i run the car down when i get my hands on it for "maintenance"
10-03-2010, 08:18 PM
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yeah and since i have to buy front and back covers and a wiring harness anyway im figuring its better than buying a 350 dollar cam 100 dollar front 100 dollar back cover and a wiring harness. i cant reuse my old harness in my 67 becuase when that 5.3 comes out its going into my 70 chevelle so this turbo motor can go in. i may use the holley efi computer but idk yet
10-04-2010, 01:26 PM
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wow thats great. i may be getting some dish pistons and some arp mains and goin a little higher hp. anyone know whats the limit on a punched out 5.3/ls1 is good till
10-04-2010, 07:28 PM
#16
10-06-2010, 09:33 PM
#18
i must be blind???
cheapest i have found the cam is $130 shipped and front cover package is $140 shipped.
