427

iTrader: (3)

I tried 8's and they used oil! You wont get anything low buying standard sets from common companies. Dealing with your machinist would be best, he will know what works well on his bore finish. If you want something special call Total Seal, they can help you decide on the best ring if something special is needed.

Kurt

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

My LS7 rods showed up today (super light! holly crap!). While looking them over, I got to thinking about rifle drilled rods. I have seen some forged rods that have a hole drilled from big end to small end to feed oil up the "stalk" of the rod and pressure oil the pin.

Could such a modification be used to cool the bottom of the piston? If the pressurized oil is allowed to spray out the top of the small end, it will be directly hitting the bottom crown of the piston (exactly where we want it). It would ALWAYS be hitting the bottom of the piston at all times regardless of where the piston is in the bore.

Yes/No?

stevieturbo

Some old rods years ago used to have a little boss and drilling on the side, I presume for jetting oil under the piston.

Havent seen it on anything modern though. Cant even remember what engine, an old Mini or something

But removing oil from the big end bearings in that manner...well, you'd need to ensure you have a substantial oil supply to the bearings. Especially at high rpm.

427

iTrader: (3)

I ran oil up the beam in the Casper turbo engine, then had the traditional top center hole to let oil hit the piston centered. I ran a .040 hole from Oliver and added the hole in location on the upper bearing shell. That worked well for me, but not as much cooling as the individual spray because it does not see full oil pressure. I seen a cup engine a few years back and it had 3 nozzles per piston!

Kurt

427

iTrader: (3)

I remember that in Ford V8 engines when they had flat tappet cams, they were trying to keep oil on the cam lobes.


Kurt

Verz

iTrader: (21)

So my gen 4 6.0 block has these

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

From the factory? Is this an iron or aluminum 6.0 block?

Verz

iTrader: (21)

Its an iron block and not sure if they are factory or not, the block has changed hands a few times and the history of it has been lost in the shuffle. The casting number on the rear brings back no results but the front casting looks to make it manufactured in 06 so was in some 07 vehicle but to what im unsure.

427

iTrader: (3)

The new style castings with the 8 towers under the valley cover all have the material in place, but only the factory blower engines are machined. The material is in the iron blocks as I have a 5.3 iron block with the added material, but I'm not sure what they were built for.

Kurt

locospl

iTrader: (3)

I'm for some real world results from ls engines with oil squirters.
Any one running these notice cooler chamber temps/able to add more timing?

sparky 2211

I have 8 years experience with BLP squirters on my 565 BBC Bonneville eng also run spring sprayers

and I talked a buddy of mine to installing piston squirters on his turbo 496 BBC Bonneville car ---pump malfunctioned AFR shot up---discolored pistons but did not hole them on a pretty serious run. Called me afterwards and thanked me felt like they had already paid for themselves.

I looking to build a SCTA BG D motor---260-305 out of a 4.8 for my Lakester "Ms. LIBERTY". I am doing my research now when I feel like I can ask good questions I will be seeking help.

At B'ville we are trying to gi'ter done for 5 miles

ronr

Where should the squirters be aimed? One of the pic's early in this thread shows the Katech squirters aimed toward the middle of the piston by the wrist pin.

My LSA block (attached picture) has them too close to the web on the bottom of the aftermarket pistons and I'm not sure if I should just bend them away from the web a bit and keep it pointed more toward one side of the piston.

I didn't take note of where they were aimed at on the stock pistons.

stevieturbo

Ultimately you're trying to remove heat from the crown, so anywhere that directs oil to the underside of the crown should be good.
Maybe towards the exhaust side or centre as opposed to inlet side.

sparky 2211

BLP aims from the main bearing web across the bore so it "walks" the oil stream back and forth across the crown as the piston goes up and down.

99.9percenter

iTrader: (2)

Is the block weakened much with the BLP sprayers? I have an LT1(second gen).

99.9percenter

iTrader: (2)

Will you rent me that drill kit please?

BADZR1

...for the LS9 OEM application.

I know its an ancient thread, but this question never seems to get answered. I needed this spec and had to search a bit for it, so I thought Id pass it along...
Have a nice day.

slowride

iTrader: (3)

I'd like to see a bulkhead based setup, but use the jets like a ecoboost uses that would screw in and use a check ball. Sure anything that small has a chance to plug with debris, but I like the fact they wouldn't let the galley bleed down.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I talked to Carlos from Concept Performance at LS fest and asked about piston squirters. He said starting with the next batch, all of their LS blocks will be drilled for bulkhead style piston squirters. Apparently all of their LTx blocks already have them.

Andrew

TheWrathofDan

ls9 have check valve. do not open until 40psi, or near that pressure