1BADChev

How's it going Fellas?

I own a Camaro SS and plan on doing a F1R Procharger kit on a decent compression, forged ls2 402(10.7 Compression). We plan to run c16 or E85 and reach 900+hp at 14-15lbs of boost. I would like to get some feedback on experience with this kit I.E. rwhp #'s? What injectors people are going with, what specific upgrades/modification are there needed for the radiator/AC, also what are the best options/accessories to go with considering this kit definitely needs alot of customization for F-body's.

All feedback and advice is much appreciated...

Frank-

lbm13186

iTrader: (4)

idk but got mine in last week, just waiting on my engine and will be installing next week some time. let me know when you get numbers and i let you know how the install and my numbers come out

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

Typically F-1R's are used for higher boost numbers than 14-15#. Due to their high flow nature they are rather peaky in comparison to the smaller chargers, meaning you should push them hard to make them work well. You should look into the F-1A or F-1D if you really only want 14-15# boost. I have even seen some F-1's make 900rwhp.

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

I would look into a F1C. It has the highest flow numbers below the F1R but won't be as parasitic. It will easily make 900+ rwhp. I've seen a couple F1A's make over 1K.

speedracer5532

iTrader: (8)

I recommend going cogged belt with a F1R. I broke so many 8 rib belts and finally switched to a cogged belt and haven't broke a belt yet.

93formto98T/A

iTrader: (28)

If you "only" going for 15psi then no need for C16 or e85. Secondly, the F1R has larger internals and more rotating mass which equals more parasitic loss. It's meant to be spun to max. If you're at 15psi and ~900rw then F1A/C/D will suit you better.

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

Twin billet 6765s yo.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Hi Frank, take a look at the system I have at this link. http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GJ20...-Speed-Kit.htm

I would go with the Aster bracket, the front mount intercooler option and an F-1A for no more boost and horsepower than you're looking for. Back at the old shop we build an engine using a new LS2 block, we added a Callies 4.00 stroker crank, Compstar rods, Diamond pistons, Total Seal rings, our blower cam, off the shelf AFR 225 heads and a FAST 92 intake. With Kooks 1-7/8 headers and an F-1A at only 12.4 psi of boost it made 864 rwhp on the Mustang Chassis Dyno. This was is a Caddy CTS-V and the customer took it to another shops dyno day and it made even more power on their dyno. We were making 19-20 psi on my 408 with an F-1A so there is plenty left in the F-1A on the CTS-V. Bob

1BADChev

Hey Fellas,

I appreciate the feedback. The only reason I jumped to the F1C is because I dont plan to do any weight reduction, the car is a pristine with only 6500 miles and you can literally eat off any part of the car. Also due to the fact that I will probably end up going to more power and wanting better ET's. I have rarely seen F1A's get over 900rwhp, maybe I'm not in the loop or looing in the right places? I have higher compression than normal as well which should actually contribute to the F1C blower from what I been told several times, am I correct or wrong this? With a meth kit and race fuel I plan to get atleast 18lbs of boost out of the LS2/blower. If the motor is making 520ish rwhp N/A based on track times the car has been 10.70/10.80's consistent full weight and I feel like with more timing it could have 10.50's in it.

Previously the car went 9.82 with a D1SC similar 402 low compression build making only 680rwhp.

Thoughts on the F1C? Considering maybe the F1R might just be too big or not ran enought with my setup. Just trying to make the right decision for the right blower so I dont have to back track later if I decide to go faster bigger motor etc etc, which I am pretty sure I will. Yet still have an exceptional setup until anything god forbid goes wrong.

Thanks again for the feedback

1BADChev

Man I wish I could go Turbo! this is one of the most cost effective build ever for me LoL. My last car in my sig loved it but with life comes family etc etc first yo...

Pm some detailed about your setup?

Thx

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

F1R 1035rwhp YO lol! No but for real I would recomend a smaller head unit such as an F1A or C as everything has to be perfect for the R to work on a 8 rib belt and even then there is still probably slip that can't be detected. and you will make more boost than 14-15lbs even with the 4.25" pulley I make 17.5-18lbs. GL!

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

I would go with the F1C like I previously stated. That's helicol's old car huh? That's a bad *** car and combo man! Like myself and others stated the F1R is peaky and is going to want to be spun high...it will most likely create to much boost for what you want/are ready for. For the boost levels your wanting, it will put the head unit out of its optimal efficiency range. The F1C is the next largest head unit and not as aggressive. Youtube F1A's and there's a ton of videos of different cars making over 1K...obviously all dyno's vary but there enough of them around lol Any of the F1 head units will make what you want on that engine. With the higher compression, as you said it should only take 15ish psi to make those numbers. Good luck and enjoy!

5w20

iTrader: (21)

F1-A on e85 should easily crack 1000rwhp and around 900rwhp on 93. Octane is your friend.

There's a guy on here that made almost 900rwhp a P1SC through an auto.

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

Here's a couple. Keep in mind all dynos are going to be a little different but over all it shows the potential!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BROyrqFlSy0&NR=1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J71zn...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNZL8...eature=related

The last one was close and I'm sure can be pushed a little harder lol

5w20

iTrader: (21)

you do realize that those all are manual transmissions while the OP has an auto. there might be just a slight difference.

1BADChev

What 5w20 Said, with efficient setups sky is the limit... Hehe. Autos tend to eat up 30%hp no doubt about that. Blue00zzsleeper you are correct this is Helicoils car, just got here two weeks I havent ever been this excited about an F-body build. Vids were definitely inspiring!

Inspector12, I admire your cars! Hope to get me a set of the Fikse wheels with some 335 radials out back should I decide to play on the street lol or are those just the bolted Bogarts?

I'm coming to more and more realization that the F1C is indeed the better option and if I do end up going bigger cubes/iron block to get into the mid 8's down the line the F1C blower being serviced would love to run up to 24 Lbs of boost from what ProCharger promotes...

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

The F-1C and F-1R are both the same price, but I agree that the F-1C would be better suited to your build over the F-1R. Both of these blowers use the same bracket as the D-1SC and F-1A, but the F-1C/F-1R are a little larger and will make clearance tight at the radiator. The F-1C/F-1R will require a custom inlet tube, which is easy to make. I've found that using an aluminum 90 degree elbow with a t-bolt clamp works great. The aluminum clamps down easier than steel, as it is softer.
Inspector12, what did you do for the radiator? Bob

kmracer

iTrader: (1)

SnIpEz

iTrader: (4)

Inspector has an F1, so probably nothing.

For the F-1C and up, isn't the clearance TOO tight for the head unit to fit or something like that? I remember being told and reading all around that modification to the radiator is required to get it to fit

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Thanks they are bolted Bogarts, but I love a nice set of Fikse's as well I a sure it will look bad *** for sure.