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How to Microsquirt fuel and spark your LSX swap (sloppy mechanics how to!) 8-10-13

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Old 04-16-2015, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by stacy moore
It might be a pin got pushed back in one of the connectors or a bad solder joint when I changed out the 4.7 resistor to 3.25 resistors im just not sure.

Any way I texted Forcefed86 and have asked him to send me back the micro and harness and ill swap it out with another one I have when I get back home from Barrett Jackson early next week.

Stacy
We can test the Micro on my car if he sends it back.
Old 04-17-2015, 06:53 AM
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A question for you guys related to microsquirt but not LS motors. Is the internal mods to the micro squirt for it to run the additional coils or the sensors on the LS motors?

I have an microsquirt on the way, but for a 5.2L magnum going into my pickup. (Good place to learn, I figure!) I have some LS coils lying around though, so the thought is going through my head of using those on the magnum.

Any information would be cool, sorry to hijack, but its such a good thread! Thanks
Old 04-17-2015, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by bmxmon
A question for you guys related to microsquirt but not LS motors. Is the internal mods to the micro squirt for it to run the additional coils or the sensors on the LS motors?

I have an microsquirt on the way, but for a 5.2L magnum going into my pickup. (Good place to learn, I figure!) I have some LS coils lying around though, so the thought is going through my head of using those on the magnum.

Any information would be cool, sorry to hijack, but its such a good thread! Thanks

It's for the additional coil outputs, shouldn't require anything fancy for sensor inputs, maybe just recalibrating the thermistor tables for the dodge sensors
Old 04-18-2015, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by linuxman51
It's for the additional coil outputs, shouldn't require anything fancy for sensor inputs, maybe just recalibrating the thermistor tables for the dodge sensors
Awesome, thanks for the input, I appreciate it! over
Old 04-18-2015, 08:55 PM
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FYI

The resistors raise the voltage above ground to 5 volt level. When micro needs to fire the coils, it grounds the output wires which fires the coils to produce spark.
Old 04-19-2015, 01:10 AM
  #246  
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Originally Posted by aknovaman
FYI

The resistors raise the voltage above ground to 5 volt level. When micro needs to fire the coils, it grounds the output wires which fires the coils to produce spark.
That is true for the 2 wires going to pins 16 and 17.
But I think the 3rd resistor between pin 1 and pin 32 is for the crank signal.

Does anybody knows why we need this resistor, or if it is needed only for the late models with 58 teeth crank wheel? (grey connector)? The microsquirt manual says that the early models (24 teeth) already has the pullup resistor integrated in the sensor. And that it needs to be plugged on VRin- (pin 33) and not VRIN+ (pin32)... I don't know what to do for the 5.3 I am building at the moment.
http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/...re-3.3-51.html
http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/...re-3.3-52.html
Old 04-19-2015, 07:22 AM
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Pull up resistors do the same function In any circuit. Thus it needs the pull-up same as the other two coil outputs.
Old 04-19-2015, 09:58 AM
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But why does it need a pullup as there is already one inegrated in the crank sensor for the ealy models (24 teeth)
And why does the microsquirt manual says to wire the crank sensor on VRIN- and here it says to wire it on VRIN+?
Old 04-19-2015, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Sumter
We can test the Micro on my car if he sends it back.
Thanks Sumter I might need to take you up on that!!!

I will get the micro back on Monday, I put the latest firmware and changed out the 4.7 resistor's to the 3.24 resistor's before sending him the micro & harness and I'm thinking if he is not getting spark it might have to do with the resistors ~ i woke up in the middle of the night wondering if i soldered them to the right pin(s) on the back of the micro, that's the first thing im going to check is that!

NO GOOD DEED GOES UNPUNISHED .... LOL
Old 04-19-2015, 01:50 PM
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SLOPPY MECHANICS 4lyfe
Old 04-19-2015, 09:53 PM
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Quick MS question...

Had a spare 0-100 autometer transducer. Using it to log exh. backpressure. Seems to work ok, but I think the settings need tweaked. Not sure how to set it up correctly.

Under Generic Inputs "Sensor 1" I choose linear. Then it gave me 0v-5v pressure settings. So I input 0 and 100. from what I've read the sensor appears to be a .5v to 4.5v? But haven't been able to confirm that from autometers site.

I setup a "PSI" gauge in MS to read this sensor. With the key "on" it reads 10psi? Didn't get to test drive but playing in the driveway it appears to rise as it should with boost. If I enter -11 in the 0v field it will display 0 at "key on" . But this will skew the rest of the readings I'd guess. Any tricks to this?
Old 04-20-2015, 09:29 AM
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i ran into the same issue and yeah i just dumped in negative numbers till it lined up with an air compressor 0-80ish psi was very close with my guessed settings
Old 04-20-2015, 09:47 AM
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According to the MS3 tech guys it should be -12.5 for 0v and 112.5 for 5V With the autometer 0-100 transducer. (or any .5 to 4.5v 0-100 sensor) I’ll try it tonight.
Old 04-20-2015, 04:27 PM
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Can you share crank and cam position sensor between the stock pcm and MS ? let MS control fuel and spark while the pcm control everything else ?.
Old 04-21-2015, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by stacy moore
Thanks Sumter I might need to take you up on that!!!

I will get the micro back on Monday, I put the latest firmware and changed out the 4.7 resistor's to the 3.24 resistor's before sending him the micro & harness and I'm thinking if he is not getting spark it might have to do with the resistors ~ i woke up in the middle of the night wondering if i soldered them to the right pin(s) on the back of the micro, that's the first thing im going to check is that!

NO GOOD DEED GOES UNPUNISHED .... LOL
So it turns out I'm just a retard I guess... Stacy loaded his known good tune/firmware on the Micro with the harness he sent me and his engine fired right up. Can't wait to compare all the tunes I loaded to this one, I can't imagine what was different!

Ah well, thanks for being patient with me all. Hope to have it running this weekend.
Old 04-22-2015, 03:19 PM
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denmah please read....

Don't feel bad I put in a few tunes from Matts tuner cabinet and it wouldn't start mine until Sumter hooked my microsqiurt to his known working setup and when it didn't start it he looked at the tune and it was way off, he loaded his known tune from his dads 55 chevy and it fired right up so im thinking that matt might look at his tunes and see if the are corrupt! because my micro had a tune for a 2.0L motor and no injector just like the tune you had in yours when you sent it back to me.
anyways your now has a good tune and starts and runs just fine.
Thanks Sumter for helping me. and Thank you to everyone else that helped!

Originally Posted by Forcefed86
So it turns out I'm just a retard I guess... Stacy loaded his known good tune/firmware on the Micro with the harness he sent me and his engine fired right up. Can't wait to compare all the tunes I loaded to this one, I can't imagine what was different!

Ah well, thanks for being patient with me all. Hope to have it running this weekend.
Old 04-24-2015, 11:56 AM
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Stacy sent the micro back and the engine fired right away. Compared the MSQ file on the micro now to some of the files I used and saw nothing different that should have effected spark. Weird stuff! Didn’t get to play with it much yet, but it started and ran briefly. I’m sure my neighbors loved the open 4” downpipe at 10:30!

Originally Posted by Forcefed86
According to the MS3 tech guys it should be -12.5 for 0v and 112.5 for 5V With the autometer 0-100 transducer. (or any .5 to 4.5v 0-100 sensor) I’ll try it tonight.
I used 2 separate mech. pressure gauges that I believe are semi-accurate to test. (Accurate for a mech gauge anyway) Both read close to identical. Used shop air and a regulator to test. Voltage steady at 13.8 which I’m assuming doesn’t matter since the MS should regulate the voltage to 5 going to the pressure sensor?

Near as I can tell -12 and 112 appear to be the correct numbers for the Autometer sensor 0-100 PSIG sensor. This gave me 0psi with the eng off and when both my gauges read 100psi so did the MS dashboard gauge.

Noticed something odd though. When I tested the full range of pressures using the -12 and 112 values, they were accurate from 70-100. But were 4-8+psi "off" from 10-60 psi where I’ll be the majority of the time (back pressure). I skewed it to -12.5 and 118. This appears to be “dead on” form 10-60psi and "off" from 70-100. Leaving it there for now.

Last edited by Forcefed86; 04-24-2015 at 12:01 PM.
Old 04-24-2015, 12:26 PM
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weird for sure can you guys send me that tuneup that was problem free?
ill add it to the cabinet,
most people have no problems with the canned tunes...
ill look into the files and if they are getting messed up.

thanks for the heads up
Old 04-24-2015, 08:47 PM
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Having another weird issue...

Got the eng fired and idling/free revving ok. Thats about as far as I got. Running the AEM WB02. I have all the fuel correction (EGO, auto-tune, over-run... etc) turned off. Seems to idle ok around 850. and 13.5:1 But it randomly lean spikes. (17:1 or more) It also does this if I hold the RPM at say 2 to 4000 rpm. It also lean spikes every time I hit "Burn". Could this have something to do with my serial connection? It probably does this 15-25 times a minute. Sometimes its bad enough to stall the engine.

Not sure what the deal is. Any input?

Quick video of the car idling to keep your interest. It's a 77 280z with a 80mm Turbo 5.3 setup.


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Old 04-24-2015, 10:40 PM
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lean spike almost die when you hit burn is normal as far as ive seen


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