How to Microsquirt fuel and spark your LSX swap (sloppy mechanics how to!) 8-10-13
#263
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Can you not leave the micro "on" and monitor gauges on the lap top without it having processing hiccups? My MS3 has no issue with this.
-thanks!
#266
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes I just tapped / soldered 3 wires to the crank sensor wires for the Microsquirt and its working fine for my set-up. ( drive by cable 2000 pcm w/ 4L60e trans ) I have the micro squirt using the TPS, intake air temp, water temp, coils, injectors, unplugged the idle air valve & blocked the bleed hole in throttle body with a 1/4 x 20 x 1" carriage bolt.
#267
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
the only issue I have is the microsquirts target afr is 10afr and the tunnerstudio logging says its 7.5AFR and the AEM is saying its 10AFR at 14.7# of boost.
#270
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Mine is running great with that tune file you have, it only dies when I hit burn - ive drove it around for about 2hrs and its running great.
the only issue I have is the microsquirts target afr is 10afr and the tunnerstudio logging says its 7.5AFR and the AEM is saying its 10AFR at 14.7# of boost.
the only issue I have is the microsquirts target afr is 10afr and the tunnerstudio logging says its 7.5AFR and the AEM is saying its 10AFR at 14.7# of boost.
Not sure whats up with this engine. It has good oil pressure, all cyls are firing, plugs are good, compression check was great, no Sync error… Aside from the constant hunting AFR is runs fine at idle/low rpm and starts up great. Tapps like a SOB in the upper RPM thou and I found a decent amount of metal in the filter (some goldish so I’m assuming bearing issues). I’ll have to put the micro troubleshooting on hold and pull this motor. Could just be a junk motor. Everything else was junk on this car… why not the motor! I’ve got enough spare LS stuff I should be able to get a gen4 setup going and start from square 1.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MAC-BOOST-CONTROL-BY-GEAR-SOLENOID-VALVE-chrome-hondata-s300-kpro-pwm-turbo-/331507854094?hash=item4d2f686b0e&vxp=mtr
#273
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
[QUOTE=Forcefed86;18776730]It looked like you had the second AEM WB02 gauge selected on the micro tune? My AEM was the first of the two options. May try changing it in teh "tools" menu. It's weird I had to add a ton of fuel to the tune U sent to get the car to idle/run.
Hummm - any ideas why?
I tried the first option on the tools minu and it still doesn't want to read correctly!
so I called AEM and got the volts and AFRs for the custom settings and still doesn't read the same as the gauge!
point (1) 0 volts = 10 AFR
point (2) 4.99 volts = 19.98 AFR
Hummm - any ideas why?
I tried the first option on the tools minu and it still doesn't want to read correctly!
so I called AEM and got the volts and AFRs for the custom settings and still doesn't read the same as the gauge!
point (1) 0 volts = 10 AFR
point (2) 4.99 volts = 19.98 AFR
#274
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
A few questions for you guys that have knowledge with the micro I bought mine from Efi source with the ( Denmah) tune already loaded and had Shannon Taylor make me a harness . I'm nearing completion ( 70 Chevelle lq4,gt45,93oct,tu1cam so my question is what exactly do I have to do to make the car run and tune it? Do I hook my laptop to the micro using the correct cable and download something ? I'm new to All this so if someone could just help me through the technical basics that'd be great, also where should I hook my fuel pump and electric fan into? I noticed the harness Shannon made has a few relays . Thanks for any input!
#275
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
well i can make a video on how to do it, but i think there are a few already, you would basically get tunerstudio loaded on your laptop and then key power on and connect
make a new project for your car, hit detect ECU, it will find it and you go through the prompts and it will connect to the tables live and from there you can start and tune.
it is super easy
make a new project for your car, hit detect ECU, it will find it and you go through the prompts and it will connect to the tables live and from there you can start and tune.
it is super easy
#278
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It looked like you had the second AEM WB02 gauge selected on the micro tune? My AEM was the first of the two options. May try changing it in teh "tools" menu. It's weird I had to add a ton of fuel to the tune U sent to get the car to idle/run.
Not sure whats up with this engine. It has good oil pressure, all cyls are firing, plugs are good, compression check was great, no Sync error… Aside from the constant hunting AFR is runs fine at idle/low rpm and starts up great. Tapps like a SOB in the upper RPM thou and I found a decent amount of metal in the filter (some goldish so I’m assuming bearing issues). I’ll have to put the micro troubleshooting on hold and pull this motor. Could just be a junk motor. Everything else was junk on this car… why not the motor! I’ve got enough spare LS stuff I should be able to get a gen4 setup going and start from square 1.
No relay needed for BC. Just need a PWM MAC valve. Around $30 on Ebay. Used it on my MS3… same thing. You run power to one side and the MS pulses the ground to regulate pressure to the gate. If you use the “Fidle” output for BC you have no idle control with the micro. Seen a few guys use the timing to offset RPM so far that’s what I’m doing and it seems to work well. Not sure an idle valve is needed.
New Mac Boost Control by Gear Solenoid Valve Chrome Hondata S300 Kpro PWM Turbo | eBay
Not sure whats up with this engine. It has good oil pressure, all cyls are firing, plugs are good, compression check was great, no Sync error… Aside from the constant hunting AFR is runs fine at idle/low rpm and starts up great. Tapps like a SOB in the upper RPM thou and I found a decent amount of metal in the filter (some goldish so I’m assuming bearing issues). I’ll have to put the micro troubleshooting on hold and pull this motor. Could just be a junk motor. Everything else was junk on this car… why not the motor! I’ve got enough spare LS stuff I should be able to get a gen4 setup going and start from square 1.
No relay needed for BC. Just need a PWM MAC valve. Around $30 on Ebay. Used it on my MS3… same thing. You run power to one side and the MS pulses the ground to regulate pressure to the gate. If you use the “Fidle” output for BC you have no idle control with the micro. Seen a few guys use the timing to offset RPM so far that’s what I’m doing and it seems to work well. Not sure an idle valve is needed.
New Mac Boost Control by Gear Solenoid Valve Chrome Hondata S300 Kpro PWM Turbo | eBay
#279
9 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
[QUOTE=stacy moore;18777444] First of all, the gauge is correct. So, if your gauge is reading, for example 11.8 AFR and your Micro is reading 10.8, go with the gauge.
What you need to do is tweak the voltage values until the Micro and and gauge read the same. I had to do this with my Wideband Commander. My AEM and my Micro are also different. I have not taken the time to tweak the voltage around.
Mike
It looked like you had the second AEM WB02 gauge selected on the micro tune? My AEM was the first of the two options. May try changing it in teh "tools" menu. It's weird I had to add a ton of fuel to the tune U sent to get the car to idle/run.
Hummm - any ideas why?
I tried the first option on the tools minu and it still doesn't want to read correctly!
so I called AEM and got the volts and AFRs for the custom settings and still doesn't read the same as the gauge!
point (1) 0 volts = 10 AFR
point (2) 4.99 volts = 19.98 AFR
Hummm - any ideas why?
I tried the first option on the tools minu and it still doesn't want to read correctly!
so I called AEM and got the volts and AFRs for the custom settings and still doesn't read the same as the gauge!
point (1) 0 volts = 10 AFR
point (2) 4.99 volts = 19.98 AFR
What you need to do is tweak the voltage values until the Micro and and gauge read the same. I had to do this with my Wideband Commander. My AEM and my Micro are also different. I have not taken the time to tweak the voltage around.
Mike