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How to Microsquirt fuel and spark your LSX swap (sloppy mechanics how to!) 8-10-13

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Old 04-24-2015, 10:54 PM
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glad to see your making progress with the Z, I know you got screwed on the car but it sure looks nice from the pics!
Old 04-25-2015, 07:44 AM
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Engine will hickup when burning file as it needs to stop procsssing and rewrite entire file.
Old 04-25-2015, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by aknovaman
Engine will hickup when burning file as it needs to stop procsssing and rewrite entire file.
I don't feel the tune is the issue. I can flatline a large group of cells to the same value,say 30. This will net me right at 12.0 AFR and 850ish rpm. I have no trims active that can adjust the AFR values at this point. Now if I just stand back and do nothing it randomly acts like just like I've hit the "BURN" button. Say every 20-30 seconds. Is it automatically updating to rewrite the file on it's own? Is there a way to shut this off on the micro?

Can you not leave the micro "on" and monitor gauges on the lap top without it having processing hiccups? My MS3 has no issue with this.

-thanks!
Old 04-25-2015, 12:29 PM
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Do you have a way of monitoring crank/cam signals and their integrity when it's doing the little drop out problem ?
More so crank.
Old 04-25-2015, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Do you have a way of monitoring crank/cam signals and their integrity when it's doing the little drop out problem ?
More so crank.
Batch fires ign/fuel off crank only, no cam sensor. I have a Syno Error count. It shows zero. When cranking I'll sometimes get 1 error or so. But once running it's appears to be a clean signal with no sync errors.
Old 04-26-2015, 11:23 AM
  #266  
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Originally Posted by s57_s2k
Can you share crank and cam position sensor between the stock pcm and MS ? let MS control fuel and spark while the pcm control everything else ?.
Yes I just tapped / soldered 3 wires to the crank sensor wires for the Microsquirt and its working fine for my set-up. ( drive by cable 2000 pcm w/ 4L60e trans ) I have the micro squirt using the TPS, intake air temp, water temp, coils, injectors, unplugged the idle air valve & blocked the bleed hole in throttle body with a 1/4 x 20 x 1" carriage bolt.
Old 04-26-2015, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Batch fires ign/fuel off crank only, no cam sensor. I have a Syno Error count. It shows zero. When cranking I'll sometimes get 1 error or so. But once running it's appears to be a clean signal with no sync errors.
Mine is running great with that tune file you have, it only dies when I hit burn - ive drove it around for about 2hrs and its running great.
the only issue I have is the microsquirts target afr is 10afr and the tunnerstudio logging says its 7.5AFR and the AEM is saying its 10AFR at 14.7# of boost.
Old 04-26-2015, 08:35 PM
  #268  
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Are you using a relay for the boost control solenoid?
Old 04-27-2015, 06:33 AM
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any of you guys ever use the boost controller option on your micro yet.?

thinking about trying this.
Old 04-27-2015, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by stacy moore
Mine is running great with that tune file you have, it only dies when I hit burn - ive drove it around for about 2hrs and its running great.
the only issue I have is the microsquirts target afr is 10afr and the tunnerstudio logging says its 7.5AFR and the AEM is saying its 10AFR at 14.7# of boost.
It looked like you had the second AEM WB02 gauge selected on the micro tune? My AEM was the first of the two options. May try changing it in teh "tools" menu. It's weird I had to add a ton of fuel to the tune U sent to get the car to idle/run.

Not sure whats up with this engine. It has good oil pressure, all cyls are firing, plugs are good, compression check was great, no Sync error… Aside from the constant hunting AFR is runs fine at idle/low rpm and starts up great. Tapps like a SOB in the upper RPM thou and I found a decent amount of metal in the filter (some goldish so I’m assuming bearing issues). I’ll have to put the micro troubleshooting on hold and pull this motor. Could just be a junk motor. Everything else was junk on this car… why not the motor! I’ve got enough spare LS stuff I should be able to get a gen4 setup going and start from square 1.



Originally Posted by yenkomike
any of you guys ever use the boost controller option on your micro yet.?

thinking about trying this.
No relay needed for BC. Just need a PWM MAC valve. Around $30 on Ebay. Used it on my MS3… same thing. You run power to one side and the MS pulses the ground to regulate pressure to the gate. If you use the “Fidle” output for BC you have no idle control with the micro. Seen a few guys use the timing to offset RPM so far that’s what I’m doing and it seems to work well. Not sure an idle valve is needed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MAC-BOOST-CONTROL-BY-GEAR-SOLENOID-VALVE-chrome-hondata-s300-kpro-pwm-turbo-/331507854094?hash=item4d2f686b0e&vxp=mtr
Old 04-27-2015, 08:50 AM
  #271  
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Oreiley auto parts crank position sensors have a high failure rate. swap it out and see if the hickips go away.
Old 04-27-2015, 10:29 AM
  #272  
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Thanks Forcefed. That is the solenoid I have You suggested it to me Thanks
Old 04-27-2015, 03:05 PM
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[QUOTE=Forcefed86;18776730]It looked like you had the second AEM WB02 gauge selected on the micro tune? My AEM was the first of the two options. May try changing it in teh "tools" menu. It's weird I had to add a ton of fuel to the tune U sent to get the car to idle/run.

Hummm - any ideas why?
I tried the first option on the tools minu and it still doesn't want to read correctly!
so I called AEM and got the volts and AFRs for the custom settings and still doesn't read the same as the gauge!

point (1) 0 volts = 10 AFR
point (2) 4.99 volts = 19.98 AFR
Old 05-27-2015, 06:42 PM
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A few questions for you guys that have knowledge with the micro I bought mine from Efi source with the ( Denmah) tune already loaded and had Shannon Taylor make me a harness . I'm nearing completion ( 70 Chevelle lq4,gt45,93oct,tu1cam so my question is what exactly do I have to do to make the car run and tune it? Do I hook my laptop to the micro using the correct cable and download something ? I'm new to All this so if someone could just help me through the technical basics that'd be great, also where should I hook my fuel pump and electric fan into? I noticed the harness Shannon made has a few relays . Thanks for any input!
Old 05-28-2015, 08:55 AM
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well i can make a video on how to do it, but i think there are a few already, you would basically get tunerstudio loaded on your laptop and then key power on and connect

make a new project for your car, hit detect ECU, it will find it and you go through the prompts and it will connect to the tables live and from there you can start and tune.

it is super easy
Old 05-28-2015, 08:55 AM
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http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...dio_how_to.htm
Old 05-28-2015, 09:33 AM
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Your the man Matt! Any input of how I should wire the fan and in tank pump? And also what tune does my comp already have ?
Old 05-28-2015, 06:30 PM
  #278  
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
It looked like you had the second AEM WB02 gauge selected on the micro tune? My AEM was the first of the two options. May try changing it in teh "tools" menu. It's weird I had to add a ton of fuel to the tune U sent to get the car to idle/run.

Not sure whats up with this engine. It has good oil pressure, all cyls are firing, plugs are good, compression check was great, no Sync error… Aside from the constant hunting AFR is runs fine at idle/low rpm and starts up great. Tapps like a SOB in the upper RPM thou and I found a decent amount of metal in the filter (some goldish so I’m assuming bearing issues). I’ll have to put the micro troubleshooting on hold and pull this motor. Could just be a junk motor. Everything else was junk on this car… why not the motor! I’ve got enough spare LS stuff I should be able to get a gen4 setup going and start from square 1.





No relay needed for BC. Just need a PWM MAC valve. Around $30 on Ebay. Used it on my MS3… same thing. You run power to one side and the MS pulses the ground to regulate pressure to the gate. If you use the “Fidle” output for BC you have no idle control with the micro. Seen a few guys use the timing to offset RPM so far that’s what I’m doing and it seems to work well. Not sure an idle valve is needed.

New Mac Boost Control by Gear Solenoid Valve Chrome Hondata S300 Kpro PWM Turbo | eBay
Lol that is the exact valve I use at work for a project I fitted up, I bet I have a spare around too! I also have used the 36A valves which flow about 2x as much as the 35 series but I doubt you need the extra flow for boost control.
Old 05-29-2015, 01:09 PM
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[QUOTE=stacy moore;18777444]
Originally Posted by Forcefed86
It looked like you had the second AEM WB02 gauge selected on the micro tune? My AEM was the first of the two options. May try changing it in teh "tools" menu. It's weird I had to add a ton of fuel to the tune U sent to get the car to idle/run.

Hummm - any ideas why?
I tried the first option on the tools minu and it still doesn't want to read correctly!
so I called AEM and got the volts and AFRs for the custom settings and still doesn't read the same as the gauge!

point (1) 0 volts = 10 AFR
point (2) 4.99 volts = 19.98 AFR
First of all, the gauge is correct. So, if your gauge is reading, for example 11.8 AFR and your Micro is reading 10.8, go with the gauge.

What you need to do is tweak the voltage values until the Micro and and gauge read the same. I had to do this with my Wideband Commander. My AEM and my Micro are also different. I have not taken the time to tweak the voltage around.

Mike
Old 05-29-2015, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by aknovaman
Oreiley auto parts crank position sensors have a high failure rate. swap it out and see if the hickips go away.
Yes, only use an actual GM sensor. Parts store sensors are junk.


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