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denmah's commonly bought turbo car items (update 7-11-16)

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Old 03-19-2014, 07:15 AM
  #321  
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No they're polyurethane.
Old 04-06-2014, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by denmah
Turbo Wastegate 50mm Type GT 14 PSI 1 Bar Red Nissan Toyota Mazda Acura Subaru | eBay

ive been using these for nearly everything lately, working great
I have this wastegate. Now how do I connect my boost controller to it?
No instructions came with it and I am lost.
thanks,
david

p.s. a pic would be great.

Last edited by 6t7gto; 04-08-2014 at 06:07 AM.
Old 04-10-2014, 02:56 PM
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According to AEM's instructions...They show a line coming off the turbo and tee'd to the side of the wastegate and to the solenoid. The other end of the solenoid goes to the top of the wastegate.
Do I have to drill and tap my turbo?
Or can I feed vacuum off the intake manifold?
thanks,
david
Old 04-10-2014, 09:33 PM
  #324  
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it depends on your boost controller how it gets hooked up

what kind of boost controller are you using
Old 04-10-2014, 09:39 PM
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Great Thread
Old 04-11-2014, 05:27 AM
  #326  
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I'm using the AEM tru boost controller.

Amazon.com: AEM 30-4350 Tru-Boost Controller Gauge: Automotive Amazon.com: AEM 30-4350 Tru-Boost Controller Gauge: Automotive
Old 04-11-2014, 02:42 PM
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you can block inline, creating restriction, causing boost to rise

or with a 2 port wastegate you can add pressure to the top of the gate forcing down creating more boost also.
Old 04-11-2014, 03:01 PM
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Denmah,

I ordered a X02 Racing 60mm WG from VS racing for a side project. When you have used these in the past did they come with a very stiff spring in them? On my JGS gates I can hold them in my hand and push the valve with my thumb pretty easy ... I can't move the X02 one at all. Also do you modify the WG in any way before using?

thanks.
Old 04-11-2014, 03:19 PM
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i just make sure that valve guide is low enough for the valve to seat against its seat tight, sometimes not often, the valve would have a gap, when you clamp both sides together...

so i would put a socket on the valve guide and hammer it down so the valve face would seal up nice..

but like i said rarely would that happen on the 50 dollar gates lol

make sure the stem has no burr's on it,

also the springs are usually super tight, usually comes with like 4 springs, 2 of wich are isntalled in the gate usually.

there is usually 2 larger springs and 2 small short ones

the largest spring, super weak you can collapse by hand usually 3psi ish

the next one 6ish?

both together 10-12

depends on backpressure and placement but thats how it goes
Old 04-11-2014, 04:22 PM
  #330  
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Originally Posted by denmah
you can block inline, creating restriction, causing boost to rise

or with a 2 port wastegate you can add pressure to the top of the gate forcing down creating more boost also.
So where do I pickup the vacuum for the solenoid?
On the turbo as AEM shows in their instructions?
Or anywhere on the intake manifold?
Old 04-11-2014, 10:15 PM
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any boost source, intake, turbo compressor, intercooler, piping, anything
Old 04-12-2014, 06:03 AM
  #332  
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That's the info I was looking for.
Thank you very much.
Old 04-14-2014, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by denmah
i just make sure that valve guide is low enough for the valve to seat against its seat tight, sometimes not often, the valve would have a gap, when you clamp both sides together...

so i would put a socket on the valve guide and hammer it down so the valve face would seal up nice..

but like i said rarely would that happen on the 50 dollar gates lol

make sure the stem has no burr's on it,

also the springs are usually super tight, usually comes with like 4 springs, 2 of wich are isntalled in the gate usually.

there is usually 2 larger springs and 2 small short ones

the largest spring, super weak you can collapse by hand usually 3psi ish

the next one 6ish?

both together 10-12

depends on backpressure and placement but thats how it goes
Ok, thank you for the info. Mine did not come with any springs (just the Gate) so I'm guessing maybe it has two installed. I'll take it apart so I can see whats in there and check things out.
Old 04-14-2014, 08:15 PM
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What size injector are you using for the methanol kit?
Old 04-22-2014, 03:48 PM
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3 things I didn't see anyone really touch on when talking budget builds. For reference the cam in looking at is 228/228, .571/.571, 112LSA. I probably won't spin it higher than 6500rpm if not less.

-stock timing chain
-stock pushrods
-stock needle bearings (trunion upgrade?)

I'm building a backup budget 2006 lq4 (might swap into a different car) and piecing together things to keep the overall price down. These are the three things I'm on the fence about. Looking for 700whp through an auto

Last edited by willizm; 04-22-2014 at 03:57 PM.
Old 04-22-2014, 05:14 PM
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I went with upgrades to all of the above on mine.
Old 04-22-2014, 05:37 PM
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Following up on the Stock 4L80e Torque Converter...

Denmah... I know you've had pretty good success with running the CirdleD converters, but I was wondering... have you had any issues with reliability in running the stock converter? I realize that there are benefits to running an aftermarket one (great points below), but for a budget builder who already has a 4L80e with stock TC, have there been any issues running it? Say up to 650 rwhp... ???

Thanks all!


Originally Posted by locospl
A stall or aftermarket converter does several things.
It can be build single or multiple disk depending on power levels
Can be stalled for almost any rpm range
can be ordered with different bolt patters to match the flex pate your using.

By stalling up the motor you will make boost at lower speeds and can be stalled to create boost from a stop. Also it keeps the engine with in the rpms of the power/torque curve.
Old 04-23-2014, 01:31 AM
  #338  
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Did i miss the fuel filter portion? If so who has some good in-expensive options? im running a cell and dual 8's
Old 04-25-2014, 10:58 PM
  #339  
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Bumpity?

(Or anyone else had experience running the stock 4L80E converter in the 650-700 rwhp range? ) Thnx!



Originally Posted by HRHohio
Following up on the Stock 4L80e Torque Converter...

Denmah... I know you've had pretty good success with running the CirdleD converters, but I was wondering... have you had any issues with reliability in running the stock converter? I realize that there are benefits to running an aftermarket one (great points below), but for a budget builder who already has a 4L80e with stock TC, have there been any issues running it? Say up to 650 rwhp... ???

Thanks all!
Old 04-25-2014, 11:40 PM
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the stock converter handles power no problem it just has no stall speed

also for valvetrain i use stock rockers, stock timing chain, with all the mileage, stock push rods, you name it

the only thing i swap out are the valvesprings


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