DIY ceramic coating
#21
Launching!
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Chippewa Falls, WI
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I have about 1000 Miles on my tech-line manifolds and turbine housing with turbo X, holding up well, I did have a small chunk peel off the turbine housing but that was where the paint ran and it was thicker(so it didn't cure fully). The instructions say to do 1 coat and don't coat it very thick. All in all, best coating I have had yet. Well worth the $ and time.
I had the 1300 degree stuff done locally on my typhoon's DP and it holds up but doesn't retain heat that well. This stuff works better and has a nice finish after heat cycled.
HTH
I had the 1300 degree stuff done locally on my typhoon's DP and it holds up but doesn't retain heat that well. This stuff works better and has a nice finish after heat cycled.
HTH
#22
I have used it before and it works well. I'm doing all my turbo hot parts with it. I may buy some extra and if somebody wants their turbines, hot parts done lmk, I can do them also. I have a Powder coating shop and also do LS plastic intakes. Lmk thanks Clint
#23
TECH Addict
iTrader: (6)
I think no matter what the coating, rust will make it through if it is not coated completely and blasted super well before hand. I tried some on some VHT 2000 degree stuff on some mild tubing I had laying around and left it in the rain for a couple months and it looked fine. But I also sanded it down really well and cleaned it before paint. My turbine I was not able to get quite as clean and I can see a couple spots leaking through. But I have seen that happen a time or two with professional coatings as well.
#27
TECH Addict
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Just an update. I was all excited about this, but they have changed their # and after finally getting ahold of them, they only sell to shops now. You must be an authorized user of their product. Yeah. I hate when this **** happens. If I wanted to spend thousands of dollars for someone to do what I can do, then I would have just had a shop build my vehicle.
#28
8 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
Just an update. I was all excited about this, but they have changed their # and after finally getting ahold of them, they only sell to shops now. You must be an authorized user of their product. Yeah. I hate when this **** happens. If I wanted to spend thousands of dollars for someone to do what I can do, then I would have just had a shop build my vehicle.
#29
Teching In
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Join Date: Oct 2012
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I used this stuff and it looks great. I haven't heat cycled it yet though. I chose it because it's air cured. Some of my pieces were too big to fit in my oven
http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/fini...glacier-black/
http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/fini...glacier-black/
#34
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by truckdoug
has anyone A-B tested the same set up with and without coatings?
what kind of gains can be made or is this for appearance?
what kind of gains can be made or is this for appearance?
#35
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (25)
like measurably lower IAT temps? love to see some data or maybe a thread with some temps
i hate header wrap, refuse to do it anymore.
but painting stuff is kindof a hassle here because of the moist climate
but if its a good gain i'll suffer it. definitely not interested for like 25hp or something minimal
i hate header wrap, refuse to do it anymore.
but painting stuff is kindof a hassle here because of the moist climate
but if its a good gain i'll suffer it. definitely not interested for like 25hp or something minimal
#37
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (7)
The oven is the tough part, I have tried blowing the torch inside to cook them-I might try a can of that, and while the wife is at work, crank up the oven, lol
Like painting a car, surface prep is important.
Those GM built turbo manifolds have really made life easier, lol
Like painting a car, surface prep is important.
Those GM built turbo manifolds have really made life easier, lol
#38
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (25)
the first is the fiberglass-like splinters. the itch drives me crazy. I wrenched on a composite navy vessel for a year during it's fabrication and testing phase and it was miserable! I suppose I could get past that with thick leather gloves and full sleeves while applying but then i'd get hit while changing plugs or whatever.
second, the wrap seems to trap moisture making mild and cast stuff rust out even faster (again Oregon problems, lol)
if there is a coating that can do the same job or even like half the job wrap does then i'd be down. I just wanna see some results before I throw down.
second, the wrap seems to trap moisture making mild and cast stuff rust out even faster (again Oregon problems, lol)
if there is a coating that can do the same job or even like half the job wrap does then i'd be down. I just wanna see some results before I throw down.
#39
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (25)
The oven is the tough part, I have tried blowing the torch inside to cook them-I might try a can of that, and while the wife is at work, crank up the oven, lol
Like painting a car, surface prep is important.
Those GM built turbo manifolds have really made life easier, lol
Like painting a car, surface prep is important.
Those GM built turbo manifolds have really made life easier, lol
#40
TECH Enthusiast
We used a no bake high temp coating, cerakote and it's lasted good for all season. Expensive but it takes all the heat we could put it through.
Just be sure to use the stuff in a paint booth or someway to get away from the fumes, the ammonia in it choked me out even with a respirator on.
Just be sure to use the stuff in a paint booth or someway to get away from the fumes, the ammonia in it choked me out even with a respirator on.