69 Chevelle 6.0+billet 84mm build.
09-10-2014, 05:59 PM
#41
I obviously have a lot to learn about fabrication but what did you use to weld in between the two pipes at the T6 flange. I'm doing 2" schedule 40 pipe (2.085 ID) on my cross over and and keeping them divided but am unsure of how to weld them up
09-10-2014, 08:06 PM
#42
You are going to use schedule 40 at the T6 flange? Most builds I've seen use that kind of piping for the headers, but I haven't seen it used as the whole hotside. I formed 16 gauge exhaust tubing into the ports of the flange and welded it with a mig welder and .023 steel wire. It's all mild steel. I welded it inside and outside just to make sure there were no leaks. It is a divided flange and the pipes are not welded together at any point although I think for strength I may tack them together in a couple of spots to reduce flexing.
09-10-2014, 08:12 PM
#43
You are going to use schedule 40 at the T6 flange? Most builds I've seen use that kind of piping for the headers, but I haven't seen it used as the whole hotside. I formed 16 gauge exhaust tubing into the ports of the flange and welded it with a mig welder and .023 steel wire. It's all mild steel. I welded it inside and outside just to make sure there were no leaks. It is a divided flange and the pipes are not welded together at any point although I think for strength I may tack them together in a couple of spots to reduce flexing.
09-10-2014, 08:17 PM
#45
09-11-2014, 11:03 AM
#47
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Its been a few years but I'm pretty sure I bought all of my hotside pipe and flex bellows from race part solutions. Mine is 2.5 merged into a single 3in into an open T6 flange. If my turbo were twin scroll I definitely would have kept it divided. The 16gauge is nice to work with, I hammered it down into a little more oval shape and got it into the flange and used a series of vice grips and a hammer/blunt punch to pull the rest of it out into the flange, I didn't have a torch at the time and that would have made it easier. When I had to weld between pipes (mig welder) I just cranked the gas up and got it in there. And plus 1 on JGS products, I have their 60mm BOV and its great quality, will go with there wg's on my next build as well.
09-11-2014, 08:14 PM
#49
Finished up the 5" to dual 3" transition tonight. It was a bitch welding between the pipes, but it isn't going to leak!
The Flaming river tie rods for a Mustang II rack do not fit the Pinto rack threads. I guess I will be sending the Pinto rack back and trying to figure out what other style I need or find a stock rebuilt Pinto rack with the correct tie rod threads.
The Flaming river tie rods for a Mustang II rack do not fit the Pinto rack threads. I guess I will be sending the Pinto rack back and trying to figure out what other style I need or find a stock rebuilt Pinto rack with the correct tie rod threads.
09-17-2014, 09:59 AM
#50
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Project is looking good man! You are right about it being super quiet when you get it all done. I did my downpipe/exhaust pretty much same way, even used the pypes 3" kit too. I have Spintech Super pro street mufflers and my car is extremely quiet, granted I am only running a 5.3 with a fair amount smaller cam. Subscribed to see this monster come together 
09-17-2014, 05:22 PM
#51
Thank you. Nice to see you got to enjoy yours this year.
The rack issues are kicking my butt so I might have to just bite the bullet and buy the heim joint style tie rods even though I really don't want to. I need to start moving ahead again though and that is holding me up from the next stage. I need to get that part done so I can get the engine back out and sent to the machine shop. Then I can get the engine bay in paint and start putting all the brake parts back in.
Did you have any pics of the exhaust from underneath now that it's finished? I have an idea how I am going to connect to the Pypes kit, but curious how you did yours. Car looks and sounds great BTW.
The rack issues are kicking my butt so I might have to just bite the bullet and buy the heim joint style tie rods even though I really don't want to. I need to start moving ahead again though and that is holding me up from the next stage. I need to get that part done so I can get the engine back out and sent to the machine shop. Then I can get the engine bay in paint and start putting all the brake parts back in.
Did you have any pics of the exhaust from underneath now that it's finished? I have an idea how I am going to connect to the Pypes kit, but curious how you did yours. Car looks and sounds great BTW.
09-19-2014, 10:39 AM
#53
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This is the only pic I have that shows everything from the bottom side, I will try to take a better one next time it's on a lift. The mufflers are tilted because the pypes kit was setup for offset inlets(my mufflers are centered) and with them laying flat they ran into the rear control arm mount.
11-09-2014, 12:03 PM
#54
Looks great. I have been busy so not much to update yet. I did pick up a 1300HP Procharger intercooler from my buddy to try and see if that fits and working on getting the rack all hooked up, then pop the engine and trans out and off she goes for final paint!
01-27-2015, 07:53 PM
#58
My son Nathan and I cut small patches for the holes I had made in the floor when I installed bucket seats and a floor shifter and we welded them in. Then he helped me re-clean and prep the floor and trunk for the bedliner. My wife seam sealed around all the large patches around the roll cage and helped me roll on the bedliner. We were both flying high for about an hour after we finished but it looks nice and fresh again! It should help reduce sound plus be very tough for a long time. 
