69 Chevelle 6.0+billet 84mm build.
#1
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I figured it was time to get a build thread started on my car. Been working on it about 2 years now when time and money permits. Here is a breakdown of the specs so far.
1969 Chevelle. All steel original body panels except for a steel Goodmark 2" cowl hood. Car is straight and ready for 2010 Honda Accord blue paint with BMW silver accents as soon as the fab work is complete. 12 point cage with dual swing outs installed. Interior will be all factory style Parchment white with a column shift and bench seat.
Suspension is Global West G-force control arms with QA1 coilovers in front and Global West control arms in the rear with Strange coilovers. Ditched the factory manual steering box for a Flaming River manual rack and pinion.
Engine is a 6.0 with forged rods and pistons and a stock crank. Patriot LS6 style heads, LJMS stage 2 cam and a Holley Hi-Ram intake.
Air supplied by a Forced Inductions S484 billet ETR turbo with a T6 1.32 exhaust. Hotside consists of flipped 6.0 modified manifolds going into 2.5" pipes to a twin scroll T6 flange. Down pipe will be a 5" going through the engine bay and under the car where it will be split into dual 3" pipes that will exit in the factory location. Boost will be bled off by twin 40mm wastegates and a 60mm blow off valve supplied by JGS.
Fuel and engine management is taken care of by a Holley Dominator EFI system with 160lb injectors running E85. Fuel supplied from a stock location EFI tank with twin Racetronics 340 fuel pumps.
Transmission is a Jakes full auto 4L80E with D3 brake and a PTC single disc converter.
Rear is a Fab9 with 3.50 gears and disc brakes.
1969 Chevelle. All steel original body panels except for a steel Goodmark 2" cowl hood. Car is straight and ready for 2010 Honda Accord blue paint with BMW silver accents as soon as the fab work is complete. 12 point cage with dual swing outs installed. Interior will be all factory style Parchment white with a column shift and bench seat.
Suspension is Global West G-force control arms with QA1 coilovers in front and Global West control arms in the rear with Strange coilovers. Ditched the factory manual steering box for a Flaming River manual rack and pinion.
Engine is a 6.0 with forged rods and pistons and a stock crank. Patriot LS6 style heads, LJMS stage 2 cam and a Holley Hi-Ram intake.
Air supplied by a Forced Inductions S484 billet ETR turbo with a T6 1.32 exhaust. Hotside consists of flipped 6.0 modified manifolds going into 2.5" pipes to a twin scroll T6 flange. Down pipe will be a 5" going through the engine bay and under the car where it will be split into dual 3" pipes that will exit in the factory location. Boost will be bled off by twin 40mm wastegates and a 60mm blow off valve supplied by JGS.
Fuel and engine management is taken care of by a Holley Dominator EFI system with 160lb injectors running E85. Fuel supplied from a stock location EFI tank with twin Racetronics 340 fuel pumps.
Transmission is a Jakes full auto 4L80E with D3 brake and a PTC single disc converter.
Rear is a Fab9 with 3.50 gears and disc brakes.
Last edited by Ratical; 08-23-2014 at 09:35 AM.
#5
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Getting the car stripped to bare metal and 40+ years of dings straightened out took the longest time with the least pictures. HUGE thanks to my buddy Chris Mills for spending countless hours getting this thing perfect! Can't wait to see it in final paint. The blue in the pictures is the final color in basecoat without clear. Hard to see but it really looks great in the sunlight.
#7
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wanted to get the engine as low in the chassis as possible. The factory centerlink was hitting the pan bad even as high as the engine was sitting so I couldn't turn the wheel all the way. I decided to buy a manual rack from Flaming River and ditch the whole factory steering system. Now I have the engine slammed low and back close to the firewall and there will be no clearance issues at all. Even this low the Moroso pan sits flush with the stock crossmember.
Trending Topics
#11
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Keep the crossover split and run the dual gates.... In all reality you could step the pipe size down to 2.25 too.... We have done back to back testing on a 2.25 fully divided versus a 2.5 merged to 3 inch crossover on 6.0/S480 combos..... and the fully divided crossover responded 800 rpm sooner.
Great looking car.
Great looking car.
#12
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Keep the crossover split and run the dual gates.... In all reality you could step the pipe size down to 2.25 too.... We have done back to back testing on a 2.25 fully divided versus a 2.5 merged to 3 inch crossover on 6.0/S480 combos..... and the fully divided crossover responded 800 rpm sooner.
Great looking car.
Great looking car.
So you are talking about 1 pipe to each side of the divided housing? Completely separate?
And saw a big increase in response?
#14
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
between keeping it divided... and dropping the pipe diameter .25 of an inch spool response improved 800 rpm.
#16
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Keep the crossover split and run the dual gates.... In all reality you could step the pipe size down to 2.25 too.... We have done back to back testing on a 2.25 fully divided versus a 2.5 merged to 3 inch crossover on 6.0/S480 combos..... and the fully divided crossover responded 800 rpm sooner.
Great looking car.
Great looking car.
I see a lot of people use flex joints and some do not. If the engine and turbo are both mounted solid, do you see any reason to use a flex joint?
#18
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Had to extend the Competition Engineering trans cross member kit for the width of the Chevelle frame. Welded plates to box the frame area to weld the mounting tabs to and got the mount all bolted up. Pretty happy with the clearance for exhaust and ease of installation and removal. Decided to "clearance" the tunnel slightly also for some extra room to run wires and trans lines. Going to run a rear mounted trans cooler with -6 braided lines and a remote fan to try and keep the front of the car uncluttered. .
#19
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Got the hotside going to the turbo done today. It came out good. Wish I could have gotten the angle going to the drivers side manifold a little nicer, but it will work and you won't notice it once it's wrapped. Next I'm planning on working on the downpipe and get it at least under the car. I'll worry about the exhaust when the work under the hood is finished.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)