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What Radiator Fan setup would you do the first and only time

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Old 09-29-2014, 12:55 PM
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Default What Radiator Fan setup would you do the first and only time

I am running a D1SC on my stock bottom end 2000 TA. The front mount kit is def. blocking up the airflow. I put a 16" spal fan on the car and has the LS2 water pump to work with the aster bracket along with a 160 thermostat. Around town the car is running right at 210, but coming down the highway yesterday temps were creeping up to the 230-245 range. I know one problem is i have to put the stock air damn back on the car.

I want to move the radiator forward in the future to make room for a bigger blower or turbo when I'm ready to pull the trigger on a forged motor.

My question is, what radiator fan setup would you do the first time and never have to worry about it again? I want to move the radiator and know that i didn't make a mistake and have to change it again and again. Also would love to know what you spent to do it right the first time!

Thanks!
Nick
Old 09-29-2014, 01:02 PM
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I also want to keep my AC
Old 10-01-2014, 11:49 AM
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Spal work great but at speed you have to have directed airflow. I had the opposite issue with around town and idle issues. Turned out a couple spal fans and an expansion tank did the trick.
Old 10-01-2014, 12:37 PM
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Old 10-01-2014, 09:45 PM
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The best fan that I've found is a single puller out of a ford taurus. I used the griffin stand up radiator and that fan. In the southern heat peak summer, it wouldn't go over 187*. Trouble is, it's thick. So when I got the twins, it had to go.
Old 10-02-2014, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by NJC-Redss00
I also want to keep my AC

IMO it's all about the location of the AC condenser.

I've tried all of the fixes and still overheat. Rather than go thru all of them again here, do a search on dlandsvz28 on overheating.

What I plan to do is move the Ac condenser to the front of the windshield wiper tank, but behind my FMIC. I will need to add extensions to the ac lines.

The AC condenser is what restricts air flow to the radiator. Take a look - all air going through the radiator has to go thru the AC condenser first. Worse yet - in the summer the air is superheated by the AC condenser where it goes directly to the radiator. No wonder the radiator can't keep up.

Relocating the AC condenser will allow moving the radiator ahead some - about 2 to three inches. This should be enough to reinstall the stock fans or add two 12 inch pullers rather than one big 16 inch fan and a smaller 9 inch fan as most of us are currently using.

With condenser out of the way of the front of the radiator I will reinstall the plastic shrouds again. With the shrouds in place the puller fans will have an unrestricted path of fresh air scooped up the very effective air dam just below the radiator.

I don't know if you paid much attention to the stock filter when replacing with a new one but mine used to have small sand pebbles in the filter. They got there because of the suction of the engine causing a vacuum in conjunction with the draw of the very effective stock fans.

The problem with the ATI supercharger is that the stock air filter is gone with the only vacuum being produced by one single 16 inch fan creating draw. The vacuum created by the engine (an air pump) is no longer there.

So if we move the AC condenser out of the way which is restrictive and add two equal sized puller fans across the entire face of the back of the radiator, we should be able to get a lot of draw back with completely fresh ambient air rather than heated air off of the AC condenser.

We must reinstall the plastic shrouding, however, if it has been removed in order to create a good vacuum and pathway for the air being forced up by the air dam. The ATI system also cut part of the air dam away to make room for the dual intercoolers. So it's a good idea with an FMIC to reinstall a full sized air dam.

hth
Old 10-03-2014, 02:49 PM
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When I talked with the tech at Ron Davis he said they only go with puller fans since they work so much better than pusher fans....
That is why factory fans are always pullers
Old 10-04-2014, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by adrynalinjunkie
When I talked with the tech at Ron Davis he said they only go with puller fans since they work so much better than pusher fans....
That is why factory fans are always pullers
Most cars and trucks permit some air to enter the engine compartment through the front grille so air can get to the radiator to assist with cooling.

Most cars and trucks install the AC condenser in front of the radiator. With those types of installations there isn't room for pusher fans between the condenser and the radiator.

Even so, if you were to remove the AC condenser, you wouldn't want to restrict air from the grille to the radiator by placing pusher fans on the front face of the radiator. Although the pushers fans will push the incoming air through the radiator, it's more efficient and effective to install the fans on the rear of the radiator and pull the unrestricted air from the opening in the grille through the radiator and ac condenser.

On the Camaro, little if any air reaches the radiator through the grille because there are plastic shrouds in front the of AC condenser that create an enclosed envelope. The shrouds form an enclosed pathway for air to be pushed up into the enclosed pathway by the air dam just below the radiator. In addition, the AC condenser sets too close the radiator with little room for pusher fans between the AC condenser and the radiator.

The air dam is very effective at pushing a lot of air at 65 mph up and into the enclosed cavity through the condenser and radiator aided by puller fans. But not so effective when driving in stop and go traffic. Even the stock fans with the stock system with no mods sometimes can barely draw enough air to keep the engine from overheating especially when the AC is running.

In both cases puller fans are more efficient and effective.



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