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what model crank/rods in the new LSx block? what heads?
solid roller cam?
Dragonslayer crank, Callies Pro H beam rods. 265cc LS7 PRC heads.
Its a big *** hydraulic roller cam custom made by DRC for me. 250+ duration, .666 lift (Devil cam ) I opted away from a solid roller for now, since I can't really afford the valvetrain needed, and the turbo to take advantage of the solid setup. Since we were hoping to make drag week this year (Looking less likely with the locations, but I may try the west coast version of it if we get the car together in time), I wanted an extremely low maintenance cam and since DRC cuts great cam profiles, I figured we could just do a nasty hydraulic cam for now.
Btw #2 & 4 main bearing failure is the crank flexing. I just went thru this myself with a Compstar 4.0" crank at about 900rwhp (+200 worth of blower drag).
Btw #2 & 4 main bearing failure is the crank flexing. I just went thru this myself with a Compstar 4.0" crank at about 900rwhp (+200 worth of blower drag).
Its also from block flex. Pretty sure 900 hp wasn't flexing my dragonslayer crankshaft. The block was an aluminum ls2 though, which I believe to be the issue. Car was a blower setup for 4 years though, so there was that too.
Its also from block flex. Pretty sure 900 hp wasn't flexing my dragonslayer crankshaft. The block was an aluminum ls2 though, which I believe to be the issue. Car was a blower setup for 4 years though, so there was that too.
Oh. I thought you had a Compstar crank in the old motor. Yeah a Dragonslayer won't flex until 1500-1600 crank HP, I'd say you're good there.
I guess it could have been the block, maybe the main caps walking... Lots of people make way over 900 on an LS2 block and not had crank problems if the mains are pinned. Maybe you just had an oil pump issue or something.
Get the block on the boring block and center up the mains and see how square it all is.. It would be interesting too see.
Oh. I thought you had a Compstar crank in the old motor. Yeah a Dragonslayer won't flex until 1500-1600 crank HP, I'd say you're good there.
I guess it could have been the block, maybe the main caps walking... Lots of people make way over 900 on an LS2 block and not had crank problems if the mains are pinned. Maybe you just had an oil pump issue or something.
Get the block on the boring block and center up the mains and see how square it all is.. It would be interesting too see.
It will be off at the machine shop in a week or two. My buddy picked it up off me. I'm pretty sure the block wasn't enjoying the power I was making. My last few passes were 960+rwhp according to the calculators
Some small updates, Got the heads back on the car with the new 427. Replaced the just lunati lifters with short travel Comp lifters. Gonna measure pushrod length today and get them ordered. Any recommendations for who to go with? Currently I have tapered 3/8" pushrods.
Also, I picked up a new intake for the car. Went with the "lightweight" GMPP ls7 intake, and a 6061.com elbow. Fits under the stock hood, so with a 2" spacer, should fit under my new cowl hood perfectly!
I fly home next weekend, and hopefully I will have the car running by the end of this month with the new motor.
Oh. I thought you had a Compstar crank in the old motor. Yeah a Dragonslayer won't flex until 1500-1600 crank HP, I'd say you're good there.
I guess it could have been the block, maybe the main caps walking... Lots of people make way over 900 on an LS2 block and not had crank problems if the mains are pinned. Maybe you just had an oil pump issue or something.
Get the block on the boring block and center up the mains and see how square it all is.. It would be interesting too see.
Block was square btw. Just needs a .010 crank turning and new bearings. The old motor should be back together in a few weeks, its at the machine shop now. Machine shop agreed with me, said there was probably flexing of the aluminum block causing it. They see it on sprint car motors too. Either way, no permanent damage was done, and no hard parts were hurt badly.
New motor is alive! Sounds great, drives nice. It runs a little warmer (About 10-15 degrees max) but its an iron block 427 vs an aluminum block 402, so its understandable. Didn't have time to tune it this trip, but I'll get it dropped off for that within the month most likely.
Excuse the mess, I'm a slob when I'm working on this car. Mostly due to trying to get weeks worth of work done in days....
Ironically after all that, I forgot to take a picture of the new hood installed. I now have a cowl induction hood, and I'm contemplating installing the vents from my old hood on it. Idle Video, first time running
Thanks to Nate and Starkweather tuning, we were able to get a nice base tune on the car. Found out I need co2 to get over 15lbs of boost with this tiny turbo though! Still, made good power for 15lbs of boost.
Looking forward to making some passes in the next month or two, and maybe getting back on the dyno with 5-10psi more boost!
Killer power for only 15 psi... That's what big cubes gets ya!
Nice job...should last forever with that amount of squeeze and those internals.
I am kind of shocked it wiped the #2/4 mains on a Dragonslayer...since your block was true, I wouldn't think a Dragonslayer would flex that easy..
Hopefully you have better luck this time around.. Hoping they set the mains up loose for you.
I figure you'll go 8.50s no problem with 1k in that little car.. If not quicker... Awesome street car.
Car did 8.70s with 150 less hp and a terrible launch. I just picked up a bigger turbo and plan on making a lot more power before I get to the track. Need moar!
Car is looking good with the new set-up can't wait to see what the new powerplant produces at the track.
Btw what size FMIC core did you go with looks similar to what i ran on my Evo
Like i said on Norcal1320 i'm diggin that intake elbow and it's low-profile......wait until you see the insane set-up on the Supra now lol
Core is 4.5 or 5" thick. I don't remember, honestly. Phil @ Spoolin Fab made it for me. I messaged you about the fuel pump stuff btw! I'm hoping to maybe sneak a mechanical in the car next month.
Did a few more things to the car, started dialing in the suspension, and added wheelie bars to be safe, since this car likes to climb when it hooks.
3 hours before going to the track, found a bit of a problem. Seems I sucked a zip tie or something down my turbo while on the dyno...
Lucky for me, my buddy had a twin of it, so we swapped it out, and headed to the track. Spent a long time chasing electrical gremlins, (Ended up having a bad cell in my optima...) and then finally got the car out there to make a nice easy A to B pass.
Needless to say, car went a bit faster than expected considering I didn't have the boost up very high, and it was leaving at 3lbs of boost and 3400rpm.
Got the car to leave later in the evening, but the clocks were off, so I have no idea what it ran. According to my logs, I passed the 1/8 around 140+. Excited to make it back out again in a few months! Just picked up a sponsor who is setting me up with a Holley Dominator system to get the car working even better!
04-18-2015, 12:27 PM
) I opted away from a solid roller for now, since I can't really afford the valvetrain needed, and the turbo to take advantage of the solid setup. Since we were hoping to make drag week this year (Looking less likely with the locations, but I may try the west coast version of it if we get the car together in time), I wanted an extremely low maintenance cam and since DRC cuts great cam profiles, I figured we could just do a nasty hydraulic cam for now. 
